Many of you may know me from various reptile expos around the Pittsburgh area where I sell the plants and cleanup crew that you need to build your pet the best and most successful bioactive enclosure as possible! A bioactive enclosure is one that includes live plants, soil, and a cleanup crew, usually consisting of isopods and springtails. The cleanup crew will consume decaying plant matter, waste from your pet, and mold, as well as help to fertilize your plants naturally. The goal of a bioactive enclosure is to give your pet something that is as close to their natural habitat as possible. An added bonus of turning your enclosure bioactive is the maintenance level. They typically only need spot cleaned in the sense of cleaning the glass, cleaning up any droppings you see, and trimming plants as needed, as well as any other maintenance your pet would typically need. Trimming plants and aerating soil should be done on an as-needed basis. With the goal of properly recreating your pet's natural habitat, you have to learn about your pet's origin!
Pacman frogs can be found in northwest South America in Venezuela, Peru, Colombia and the surrounding areas. Pacman frogs make their homes in habitats such as subtropical grasslands, ponds, lowland forests, and marshes. Healthy pacman frogs are rotund cuties, with their natural coloring intended to help the frogs camouflage with the leaf litter of their habitats as they lie in wait, half buried, for their prey. All eight species of pacman frogs are compatible with the following plants, which are frequently on my table at both reptile expos and the other events that I attend. If you are looking for any plants in particular, send an email about two weeks prior to the event, so I can be sure to have them in stock.
There are a couple of plants I call "always good" plants. These are ones that can tolerate a wide range of conditions and are a tried and true plant to be used in a variety of enclosures, especially tropical enclosures. These plants can tolerate some severe abuse, both in the sense of physical that your animals may inflict and with care. Though this list is short, it will not steer you wrong.
Pothos come in a variety of color variations. They can act as a ground cover or climb with supports. The vines will grow aerial roots that attach to surfaces such as cork bark, wood, even foam backgrounds. The petioles are long enough to provide hiding areas for the frogs if used as a groundcover, yet sturdy. Their thick roots can tolerate the burrowing habits by resisting breakage and tolerating disturbance.
Spider plants may be related to asparagus, but it certainly acts more like a grass. It tolerates a mow very similarly to grass does, so if the plant begins to outgrow the enclosure, a simple cut back will help to mitigate that. They come in solid green, variegated, and curly! Spider plants will eventually send out the iconic pups. If these pups are allowed to touch the soil surface, they will root elsewhere in the enclosure. If you do not want it to spread, simply cut the bloom stalks as they form.
Groundcover plants are those that grow along the ground and can eventually fill out the substrate surface. They often give nice places for your isopods and springtails to hide, which is important, especially for the isopods, when it comes to the pacman frog's appetite! They can help to mitigate the need for replacing leaf litter consistently as it decomposes, as this will act as a living leaf litter. While it may not completely rid the need for leaf litter, it can help limit the amount used.
String of Turtles is a very popular houseplant. It is called such because its circular leaves look like the shells of turtles! This plant goes by the latin name Peperomia prostrata. You will often find them displayed in the succulent section, however they are not succulents. They are tropical plants native to Brazil, making them the perfect plant for the tropical enclosure needed for your frogs. The native range of this plant and several species of frogs overlaps, meaning this may be one they would come across in the wild. As a slow to moderate grower in most circumstances, this plant does not need much maintenance in an enclosure. They don't often grow upwards, making them less likely to get between your frog and their food.
Turtle vine looks like it belongs to the Tradescantia genus, however its Latin binomial is Callisia repens. The turtle vine behaves very similarly to the inch plants and spiderworts, but it has a slightly different appearance. The leaves are small and teardrop shaped. They are a light tan color above, occasionally with small spots. Below the leaf, they are purple, just like that of Tradescantia zebrina. It is also an easy plant to grow and cut back, if need be. Just like the pothos, simply choose a spot and snip! This plant is much more likely to grow upwards, especially in low light or without grow lights. This makes it easy for the frog to get a mouthful of salad rather than the cricket or cockroach intended. The use of tongs may help to lower the chances of this happening, but it is no guarantee.
Strawberry begonias are neither strawberries, nor begonias. They also go by the names creeping saxifrage or Saxifrage solonifera. They are a unique goundcover that spreads in the same way strawberries do, by sending out long runners with a plantlet on the end. Their fine roots tolerate the frog's digging well. Any unwanted plants are easily removed or prevented from spreading by trimming the runners as they form. Eventually, they will send up white blooms on tall stalks that almost resemble a pair of pants with their two long petals. They have hairy, textured leaves and thrive in the conditions needed to keep your frog happy and healthy.
Selaginella is the only living genus in the family of spike mosses, Selaginellaceae. They are an ancient plant and do very well as groundcover for the more horizontal species. Some species grow more upright, which will stay small, just a few inches tall. It is a great plant for a variety of frog enclosures due to their love for high moisture and humidity.
What I am calling "understory" plants are the the plants that will act as a midway point between the tallest and shortest plants in this list. They will fill the space between nicely and give your frog some nice places to feel safe. Ironically, most of the plants on this list are considered understory plants when taken out of this context and placed in the wild.
Peperomia is a genus that contains over 1,000 species, each with their own unique size, color, and growth pattern. Many species of peperomia have an overlapping native range with your frog, meaning they evolved to live together! Some peperomia stay short, even acting as groundcover, such as the aforementioned String of Turtles. Others have strong, sturdy leaves that give a unique appearance to your enclosure. Others yet would behave more like a small shrub, like Peperomia Rosso, which will provide a space for your animal to hide within. It can be hard to tell what is a peperomia and what isn't, due to their extreme diversity, but they are all pet safe, and all great additions to a pacman frog enclosure.
Rex begonias are the most common, but all begonias are going to provide both wonderful color and texture with their leaves. For the frogs, the leaves act as surfaces to and hide under. Begonias can be tough to take care of in the houseplant setting, as they need high humidity and moisture in order to thrive, just like frogs. Many begonias also have showy flowers to add to the aesthetic appeal. Begonia species range in color from shades of green with white polka dots to deep reds, nearly to black. Some species of begonias grow tall, such as the Begonia maculata pictured above. These begonias specifically are not recommended as much for long enclosures, such as what is needed for the pac man frogs, as they do not tolerate heavy trimming. It is much better to stick with rex or wax begonias, ones that will stay small.
Ferns are a plant that enjoy high humidity and a moist substrate. Ferns provide a lot of leaves and greenery for your frogs to use as a hide. Birdsnest ferns have thick leaves that will give the enclosure a different appearance and texture than maiden hair ferns have light and airy leaves that frogs can make their way between and feel safe and protected in. There are so many ferns in between you can choose from! Each species of fern can be used in slightly different ways, but they will all provide a place for your frogs to feel safe within.
Canopy in this sense refers to any plants that will grow to the top of the enclosure. These plants are going to be the tallest ones, allowing for vertical interest while looking at the tank, giving it a finished look. If you plan on keeping your frog in an enclosure that is less than 12 inches tall, some of these should be avoided.
Money tree stumps are money trees that were allowed to grow to a significantly larger size, then cut back to achieve a certain appearance. These money tree "stumps" are still very alive, growing new leaves similar to that of the umbrella plant out of the top of the stump, near the cut. This results in a nice, thick trunk with luscious leaves on top! These plants are very resilient and low light tolerant, making them fantastic for a frog's enclosure. The leaves at the top of the stump will provide an interesting look and are easy to trim if they become too tall.
Alocasia is a genus of about 90 species, some of which would be too tall for most pac man frog enclosures. Alocasia 'Polly' is a common species that will get to be too tall for the enclosures. But never fear! There are several species of alocasia that will stay short enough and provide vertical interest, as well as big leaves for your frog to hide under. They grow from corms, a type of underground stem that can be replanted in the substrate if the frog digs it up. The roots of this plant will likely hold it in place.
Philodendron is a large and varied genus in the Araceae family. So varied, in fact, that philodendrons can occupy every section of the enclosure, groundcover, understory, and canopy. Some philodendrons, like the one pictured above, have more of a shrub-like pattern while others upward and will easily attach itself to foam backgrounds or wood to sturdy itself. There are also philodendrons that grow in an extremely similar way to a pothos, but with a speed between the pothos and scindapsus, a moderate pace. There is truly a philodendron for any space in the tank. Some philodendron will quickly and easily outgrow the size of the tanks. Some great species of philodendron to fall back on include P. 'Birkin', P. hederaceum, P. micans, P. 'Silver Sword', and many more!
The parlor palm, also called the neathe belle palm, is a small species of palm tree. They are a slow grower that is another plant that would fill in the space near the water bowl nicely. Being a palm tree, they can tolerate wet feet well and do well in high humidity. This is a slow growing palm that will take quite some time to outgrow the enclosure. Should this plant need to be trimmed, it is best to simply cut the trunk and allow the plant to grow back from a stump, rather than trimming the leaves.
When building a bioactive tank, it can be challenging to choose which plants will have the same water requirements and which will stay small enough or can be trimmed to stay small enough to fit in an enclosure. Another thing to note when building bioactive enclosures is to allow the plants to rest before adding the animal. This will give the plants a bit to become established, giving you the best possible chance for success. It is best to leave the bioactive enclosure to acclimate for a month. This can be achieved by having a temporary or quarantine tank ready to go for your pet to live in during this time. This is especially important for species like pacman frogs that dig or burrow. If this is skipped, the likelihood of the success of the plants is decreased.
Choosing one or two plants from each category will create a lovely bioactive tank for your frog to thrive in! If you choose to forego the ground cover options, or even while the ground cover is filling in, consider adding leaf litter to give your cleanup crew a chance to hide. Including plants to your enclosure does not mean you should forego the other, nonliving areas for your gecko to explore. When building your bioactive enclosure, remember to leave space for the necessities, such as food and water bowls, hides, etc. It's easy to get carried away!
As always, if you have any questions on how to assemble your bioactive enclosure or what you should include, please send me an email at cedarbridgebotanicals@gmail.com.
Happy Growing!
<3 Gina
]]>Ficus is a genus of about 850 species in the mulberry or fig family, Moraceae. They are tropical trees with just a few temperate species, one of which being the common fig, or the edible fruit in Fig Newtons! Some species within the Ficus genus are are trees, while others are shrubs or even vines! Quite a few ficus are found in the houseplant trade, such as Ficus lyrata, Ficus altissima, Ficus benjamina, Ficus quercifolia, Ficus elastica, Ficus pumila, and many more! The ficus sold as houseplants all have very similar care, so while this care sheet may not be applicable to the temperate species of fig or Ficus carica, the fruit tree, but if you just brought home a ficus, or perhaps are wondering if a ficus is right for the space you are trying to fill in your home, this care sheet will help!
Ficus need bright light in order to thrive. Depending on their growing conditions beforehand, they may be able to tolerate full sun immediately, but giving them slow adjustments will always be the safest bet. If you move a plant that is used to dimmer conditions straight out into full sun without protection in the form of shade, the plants will get sunburn. Sunburn looks like brown spots on the leaves where the sun hit them the most and will not heal. Slowly giving them more light over the course of a few weeks will mitigate this risk. It is important to not that not every species if ficus can tolerate full sun, but most, if not all species of ficus in available in cultivation need bright light to thrive. Plants that don't receive enough light will lean toward the light and the space between the leaves will lengthen. The process of plants becoming leggy and leaning toward the light is called etiolation. If you notice your plant showing signs of too little light, but there is not a brighter location in your home to move it to, you can set up grow lights. Grow lights carry the same risk of sunburn as the sun does, so it is important to be sure they are mounted far enough away from the plant. Every grow light manufacturer is different, so it is best to follow the recommendation on the packaging. Most lights suggest being mounted 12-18 inches away from the highest point of the plant.
Ficus follow what I like to call "generic houseplant care." This means they follow the same watering requirements as most other houseplants. Many short directions, like those found on pot tags, will often say something along the lines of "allow to dry between watering." What is really ideal for these plants is to allow the soil in the pots to dry about 50-75% before watering again. When it is time to water, be sure to saturate the soil entirely. While this may sound like over watering to some, but over watering is the frequency at which the water is added, not the quantity. It doesn't mattter if you water from the top or the bottom, so long as the soil is fully wet when you are finished and excess water discarded. If watering from the top, this looks like adding water until the excess drains away through the holes in the bottom of the pot. If watering from the bottom, this means including enough water in the tray to fully saturate the soil, until the surface appears or feels damp, as well. This could mean adding water halfway through the soaking process. This could take anywhere from minutes to hours, depending on the size of the pot.
Ficus do well in most average, high quality potting soils. They need the rich, well draining soil that is provided by most potting soil brands. Soil that drains faster and more thoroughly will need to be watered more frequently than others. It is possible to get them to thrive in chunky soils, but should you choose a chunkier mix for these plants, they will become higher maintenance plants.
Ficus can be more finicky houseplants, great for a moderately experienced plant grower. While they aren't as disease or pest resistant as some of the other common and beginner friendly houseplants, ficus are a wonderful plant that, once you get the hang of their care, they grow quickly and thrive. These are some of the most common problems to look out for and how to deal with them.
This is possibly the most common symptom that you hear about with ficus. Leaf drop often manifests as leaves falling off of the plant in various locations without the leaves appearing to yellow or otherwise look unhealthy beforehand. This is a sign of allowing your ficus to dry just a little too much. Ficus will drop their leaves like this in an effort to conserve water. While the leaves are important for the process of photosynthesis, their often broad leaves lose a lot of water during this process. Sometimes your ficus will look fine until it is jostled, then potentially many leaves will fall at once. Watering more often will help the plant to grow more leaves back and prevent the further loss of existing leaves.
Mealybugs are a white, sap-sucking insect that produces honeydew that can lead to sooty mildew. They often hide on the underside of leaves and in tight crevices of new growth. They are easily treated with pesticides, an alcohol mixture, or beneficial insects. For more information on how to identify and treat mealybugs, check out the blog post titled Mealybugs and How to Deal with Them.
If the brown circles on the leaves are perfect circles, this is a sign that there is a fungal infection. This is often caused by watering the foliage while you are watering the rest of the plant, or when the plant is located in an area with too low of ventilation for a prolonged period of time. The circles will often have a “bullseye” appearance, though this is not always present. It is best if the plants are treated with a systemic fungicide. The brown circles will not heal, but if they are not spreading, this is a good sign. Removing the affected leaf or leaves will not necessarily remove the entire infection, but it is still a good practice.
Yellowing leaves are common in healthy and unhealthy plants alike. Old leaves on the bottom of the plant will tend to yellow and die. In healthy plants, they will only yellow a few leaves at a time and the rest of the plant will look healthy. This isn't a cause for worry! Just like you can't keep every hair on your head, plants can't keep every leaf they make.
Scale is a type of sap-sucking insect. The common name scale comprises about 8,000 different species. They look like brown lumps along stems and often on the undersides of leaves. Sometimes they are overlooked before the infestation gets out of control. Their camouflage often makes them look like a leaf scar, or the area where a leaf was before falling off. They're often found on new growth. Because they have a hard shield covering them, many of the methods that control mealybugs are not effective, despite them both technically being scale insects. Soft bodied scale can be controlled via rubbing alcohol, though this will not effect hard bodied scale. They should be physically removed and crushed as you do so. Systemic pesticides will kill any that are not physically removed. If you prefer to avoid the use of pesticides, Aphytis melinus, and Lindorus lophanthae are to beneficial insects that will target scale for control.
Though ficus are not always a top recommendation for those only just starting out on their plant journey, they are a wonderfully rewarding plant once you get the hang of them! The most important part to remember to make sure your ficus keeps its leaves and continues to brighten up your room is to water consistently. That is the biggest and most common issue with new and old ficus growers alike. As always, if you have any questions or are worried about your plant in any way, send me some photos of your plant and a brief description of how you have been taking care of it to cedarbridgebotanicals@gmail.com and I will be able to help!
Happy Growing!
<3 Gina
]]>Many of you may know me from various reptile expos, where I sell plants and clean up crews to help you build your own bioactive enclosure for your pets! A bioactive enclosure is one that has plants, soil, and a microfauna clean up crew usually consisting of isopods and springtails. The cleanup crew will help to eat any decaying plant matter, mold, and droppings left by your pet, as well as helping to fertilize your plants. Essentially, you are creating your very own mini ecosystem! The purpose is to replicate your pet's natural habitat as closely as possible. An added bonus to creating a bioactive enclosure is that they are very low maintenance. They will mostly just need spot cleaned, in the sense of removing any droppings you see and cleaning the glass, as well as any other maintenance your pet needs, such as misting. Trimming plants and aerating the soil should be done on an as needed basis. To properly replicate your pet's natural habitat, you must first learn about your pet's origin!
Corn snakes are native across the eastern United States, being most abundant in the south. You will find them in a variety of habitats, including rocky hills, woodlots, meadows, even abandoned barns! Because of their diverse habitat, they will participate in a variety of activities including climbing and burrowing. Even with a bioactive habitat, it is best to have sturdy sticks, branches and other materials for climbing. Because of their burrowing habit, it is incredibly important to allow your vivarium to "rest" before introducing your snake. This will allow your plants to establish a good root hold before an animal will disturb the roots and soil. For most, it is best to allow newly planted enclosures to rest for one month before introducing your animal, but in the case of a digger or burrower, two months is even better. It is best to wait until you can see new growth on the plants before introducing an animal, which can vary and is dependent on a lot of factors. Allowing an enclosure to rest can be achieved by keeping your snake in a temporary or quarantine enclosure. But before the tank can rest, choosing which plants to include is a wonderful place to start!
The following plants mentioned are frequently on my table at reptile expos. If you would like to request specific plants to be held for you at a particular expo, please email me at least 2 weeks prior to the date of the expo and I will do my best to ensure that I will have them there for you! The list of shows I will be attending this year can be found under the Announcements tab.
There are a few plants I have deemed to be "Always Good" plants. These plants are the ones that will do the best in a wide variety of conditions, such as temperature, watering, and humidity requirements. You will find these plants can thrive in tropical enclosures, but are also wonderful additions to temperate enclosures, such as one you would be building for your corn snakes.
Pothos are an extremely common houseplant that you can often find in bioactive enclosures. They're very adaptable, being able to occupy the base of your enclosure, creating a ground cover that still leaves space for your snake to hide. They can also climb, especially if you mist the wood the pothos is trying to attach to. Misting the wood behind the pothos vine will encourage roots to form and latch on. This plant is easy to cut back, just pick a point on the stem and cut! These plants come in a variety of colors and patterns, some of which grow faster or slower than others.
Spider plants may be related to asparagus, but it certainly acts more like a grass. It tolerates a mow very similarly to grass does, so if the plant begins to outgrow the enclosure, a simple cut back will help to mitigate that. They come in solid green, variegated, and curly! Spider plants will eventually send out the iconic pups. If these pups are allowed to touch the soil surface, they will root elsewhere in the enclosure. If you do not want it to spread, simply cut the bloom stalks as they form.
Groundcover plants are those that will cover the ground and not grow too tall. These plants are often vines and will help to provide lots of hiding areas for the clean up crew, in addition to any leaf litter you may add. They also help to hide the substrate, if that is something you would prefer.
Tradescantia, spiderworts or inch plants, come in various sizes and colors. They all do wonderfully as houseplants and enclosure plants alike. They grow very quickly which can be both a blessing and a curse. Consider the size of your enclosure and the frequency at which you are willing to trim plants in order to decide if you should add this plant to your enclosure. They are a favorite among chameleon keepers, as they grow fast enough to tolerate the damage their pets can do. If your snake is particularly destructive, this may be a good choice for you. If branches of this vine break off, they will easily re root into the soil and create a whole new plant.
Turtle vine looks like it belongs to the Tradescantia genus, however its Latin binomial is Callisia repens. The turtle vine behaves very similarly to the inch plants and spiderworts, but it has a slightly different appearance. The leaves are small and teardrop shaped. They are a light tan color above, occasionally with small brown spots. Below the leaf, they are purple, just like that of Tradescantia zebrina. It is also an easy plant to grow and cut back, if need be. Just like the pothos, simply choose a spot and snip! They also share the trait of easy propagation that tradescantia, if a portion of the vine breaks off, it will re root.
Something important to note, turtle vine (Callisia repens) and string of turtles (Peperomia prostrata) are two very different, unrelated plants. String of turtles will not thrive in the soil conditions needed to keep your snake happy and healthy. They are a strictly tropical vine that does much better when the soil is kept evenly moist, which runs the risk of causing a respiratory infection in your snake. Peperomia prostrata also does not grow as vigorously as Callisia repens and may not be able to tolerate the burrowing habit of your snake.
Scindapsus spp. sometimes called silver satin pothos, satin pothos, or silver vine, is a member of the same family as their pothos cousins. They share a lot of similar traits, such as being able to crawl or climb with the use of aerial roots that attach to consistently misted wood or foam backgrounds, interesting color patterns, easy trimming when the time comes. Silver satin pothos also have the added benefit of a slower growth rate than most pothos, which will ultimately require fewer trimmings. There is also the option of small and large leaf forms. Scindapsus pictus 'Exotica' is pictured above. It has larger leaves and a slower growth rate than Scindapsus pictus 'Argyraeus', pictured to the right. Each will be an equally great choice for different regions. Both are the same species and require the same care. "Exotica' has larger leaves on longer petioles, which can provide a safer feeling for your snake as it slithers beneath the leaves across the substrate. 'Argyraeus', with its shorter petioles and smaller leaves, can provide a similar effect to smaller snakes or juvenile corn snakes, but will not be able to hide an adult snake. They will provide a unique look to the enclosure and if they successfully climb a background, can be absolutely fascinating.
Many of us are likely familiar with English ivy, Hedera helix. It is an incredibly invasive plant in the USA and Canada, but demonstrates what it has to offer inside the enclosure well in many of our landscaped areas, and, unfortunately, our forests, as well. It can grow as a lovely groundcover, or climb backgrounds and sticks. This durable plant will tolerate an adult snake disturbing the roots and slithering on top of the leaves. Because this plant is so invasive, it is best to dispose of any trimmings you have into tied plastic bags and then throw those in the trash in order to make sure they do not make in out into our ecosystems any more than they already have.
Even though English ivy is readily available outside, gathering it to include in your animal's enclosure is not safe. There could be a range of pesticides on the leaves, as well as other illnesses your snake could catch. It is best to purchase ivy from a reputable shop.
What I am calling "understory" plants are the the plants that will act as a midway point between the tallest and shortest plants in this list. They will fill the space between nicely and give your enclosure a more completed, natural look. Ironically, most of the plants on this list are considered understory plants when taken out of this context and placed in the wild.
Philodendron is a genus of nearly 500 accepted species, with a variety of growth habits. Some philodendrons would be best put into the groundcover section, such as Philodendron hederaceum or Philodendron micans. They are very similar to and sometimes mistaken for pothos. They grow a little slower than pothos and will not need to be trimmed as often, but will both climb and crawl in the same way a pothos will.
Some philodendrons do best when planted near the background and are allowed to grow with supports that they can attach to, such as Philodendron 'Emerald Queen' Philodendron 'Silver Sword' and more with the upright habit. These species and cultivars will use their roots to attach to the background to hold itself upright.
Others still will have a more shrub-like appearance. A terrific example of this would be the Philodendron 'Birkin' pictured at the top of this section. These plants have large leaves and strong, short stems that will tolerate some climbing of small snakes, but will not be able to support adult snakes. The leaves will bend to the ground if the snake attempts to climb. Medium snakes can be a toss up when it comes to how well they can climb these plants. It is possible you will still find adult snakes hiding at the base or tangled close to the center of philodendrons with this growth habit, as the large leaves may make them feel safe.
Anthurium is a genus of plants that range in both size and price. The most common anthurium also goes by the common name Flamingo Flower. They have some on the longest lasting flowers. The red bract, the modified leaf surrounding the spadix, will last for weeks on end. They are not going to be strong enough to support any climbing the snake may attempt with this plant, but they will tolerate being bent to the ground. Some anthurium have larger leaves that can help to make your snake feel secure while out and about in its enclosure. The most common and readily available species of anthurium will have a fairly open base, as pictured to the right. This makes it a great plant to include near a water dish or a hide, as it won't dip into the water or crowd the entrance to the hide. If your snake were to spill its water or go for a swim, this plant would be one of the best on this list to include near the water, as it can tolerate the extra moisture often found in that area.
This species of monstera is another that is often grown like a pothos, either climbing or trailing. The reason this plant, sometimes called the swiss cheese plant, is in the understory category rather than the groundcover category is due to how far away the leaves sit from the stem. The petioles hold the leaves far above the soil, or far away from the sticks or background that it is climbing. Monstera addansonii is another fast growing, easy care plant that makes an easy addition to the enclosure. If it needs to be trimmed, be sure to cut the stem and not the petiole. The petiole is the portion of the plant that attaches the leaves to the stem.
The dragon tail plant is a close relative to the pothos, both in the genus Epipremnum. Dragon tails are a specific cultivar of Epipremnum pinnatum with thick, glossy, dark green leaves and an even thicker stem that runs across the ground. This plant will not climb, but it will continue to crawl across the ground. Because of this, it is best to plant this plant on one side of the enclosure and allow it to continue to grow across to the other side. Double check which way the stem is facing before installing it in the enclosure. As this plant grows and matures, the leaves will become bigger with larger and more fenestrations, or large dents in the leaves. It is quite the unique plant to add! With a slow to moderate growth rate, the dragon tail is a great, low maintenance plant to add.
The plants I am classifying as "Canopy plants" are the tallest on the list. Some may give your snake a place to climb or provide something of a hide in the branches that should be provided for climbing. Unfortunately, there aren't many plants that can both fit inside the enclosure and support your snake's climbing habits. Sturdy branches and other elements should be included to be sure your snake can safely explore.
Chinese evergreens, Aglaonema spp., come in a variety of colors and forms, though they all have a very similar growth habit. Their large, colorful leaves will bring vertical interest into the enclosure. This plant has a moderate growth rate and is a relatively low maintenance plant. Should it need any trimming, simply choose a space on the stem and snip!
The parlor palm, also called the neathe belle palm, is a small species of palm tree. They are a slow grower that is another plant that would fill in the space near the water bowl nicely. Being a palm tree, they can tolerate wet feet fairly well, though they can still be planted and survive elsewhere in the enclosure. These plants will not be able to support even young snakes, but they will provide vertical interest and may make the climbing areas feel safer if planted near them. Should this plant need to be trimmed, it is best to simply cut the trunk and allow the plant to grow back from a stump, rather than trimming the leaves.
Dracaena is a wide and varied genus in the asparagus family, now containing plants that used to be in the Sanseveria genus. I would like to note before continuing that snake plants, those that used to be classified as Sanseveria are not included in those that would do well in a corn snake enclosure. They need substrate that is too dry. Tropical dracaena, sometimes called dragon trees or corn plants, don't have leaves or branches that often can support a snake, but they still will provide a wonderful finished look to the enclosure. There are some species that stay smaller and could be classified as an understory plant, while others grow tall.
Schefflera, also called umbrella plants, are in a similar boat to Dracaena. The leaves are not often strong enough to hold snakes, but provide even more coverage to ensure your pet feels safe. They will need trimming to keep the plant to size, though they are slow growers. Simply choose a spot on the branch and cut with a clean pair of pruners. This plant is a true tree, but when space is limited for root growth, such as in an enclosure or pot, the size is limited. They are easily trimmed to size and grow slowly, making them low maintenance as far as canopy choices go.
Choosing one or two plants from each category will help to ensure you create a wonderful bioactive tank for your snake. If you choose to forego the groundcover, consider adding leaf litter to the soil to give space for your cleanup crew to hide. Having these plants does not mean you do not need to provide other, nonliving areas for your snake to explore. Adding cork bark or other types of wood and branches will give your snake a reliable place to climb, as they would in the wild. When you are building your bioactive enclosure, remember to leave space for any necessities, such as hides and water bowls. It's easy to get carried away!
Like the snake photos included in this article? They call came from Steel City Scales, a local crested gecko and corn snake breeder! Occasionally, we share a table at some local reptile expos, such as Pittsburgh Mega Reptile Expo, Rock n' Reptile Expo, and Steel City Reptile Expo.
As always, if you have any questions on how to assemble your bioactive enclosure or what you should include, please send me an email at cedarbridgebotanicals@gmail.com. For more information on gecko or snake care, shoot an email to steelcityscales@gmail.com or visit www.steelcityscales.com.
String of turtles, or Peperomia prostrata, is an easy to care for houseplant! Though it is often found in the succulent section due to its ability to store water in its leaves, this is not an arid species and does not do well when treated as other succulents. String of turtles is native to Brazil, where it is an epiphyte, or a plant that grows on other plants. You will find this trailing vine adorning branches in the rainforest, where it gets regular water from the consistent rains. Because of its native habitats, it is a wonderful addition to many terrariums and vivariums. Other plants that share the "string of" names, such as string of pearls or string of hearts, are either true succulents or plants that indeed need the soil to dry in a manner similar to that of succulents, making the string of turtles an outlier in this group. "String of things" are mostly related only by common name, some string of things are related to one another, such as string of dolphins and string of bananas, but others aren't related at all, such as string of hearts and string of turtles. Peperomia prostrata gets its common name from their circular leaves with dark green patterning resembling the shells of turtles. It is a wonderful, pet safe plant that is suitable for beginners!
Because string of turtles grow in very similar locations to air plants, their light requirements are incredibly similar. Bright, indirect light is best for these plants, but Peperomia prostrata can tolerate low light fairly well. If you notice the space between the leaves begins to get longer, this is a sign that your plant is not getting enough light. If you would like to move your plant outside during the warm season, be sure to keep it in a location with shade. Because this plant grows on other plants in the wild, it is often hidden from the sun and in the shade of the canopy. Keeping your plant in too much light can lead to sunburn, which will look like sections of browning on your leaves that follows the areas which are exposed to the brightest sunlight. The brown is necrotic and will not heal. It will remain for the life of the leaf. If you notice your plant is beginning to show symptoms of too little light indoors, grow lights are a wonderful supplement. Be sure to follow the recommendation on the packaging, as every grow light is different. Most suggest mounting the light approximately 18 inches above the highest point of the plant, but some suggest more and others fewer for best results. If you mount the grow light too close to the plant, it carries the same risks as too much sunlight- grow lights can cause sunburn.
It is important to remember that, even though this plant can store water in its leaves, it needs much more water than a succulent. They do best with consistent moisture. Allow the soil to dry slightly before watering again. When you water, whether from the top or the bottom, the soil should be completely saturated. From the top, this looks like adding water until there is excess water draining from the holes in the bottom of the pot. If watering from the bottom, this means ensuring the plant has enough water to soak up from the tray until the top of the soil appears moist, as well. This could take minutes to hours, depending on the size of the pot. Be sure to add water halfway through soaking, if needed. This may sound like over watering, but over watering is the frequency in which water is added, rather than the quantity. If you only add a small amount of water more often, that does not allow the soil to dry properly, which leaves water where there would normally be small pockets of air within the soil. If this happens, the roots cannot properly perform gas exchange and the roots will suffocate, leading to root rot. This plant does have the potential to suffer from root rot, so be sure to allow your soil to dry 24-50% before watering again.
The most ideal soil conditions for these plants to thrive are those that replicate the soil conditions that would be found in the wild. They thrive in loamy soils with a high nutrient density, but one that also drains well. Luckily, all of these attributes are found with your average potting soils that you find in many local garden centers! Peat based potting soils are best. It is possible to get them to thrive in succulent soils, but more often than not, succulent soil will dry too quickly and will not allow your plant to absorb the moisture necessary for survival. Fertile soils will encourage the growth of roots and strong vines.
Fertilizing these plants is easy and can be done with a variety of fertilizers and fertilizing methods. They respond well to foliar fertilizers with a low concentration, such as those intended for orchids. Typical fertilizers can be applied to the soil by following the instructions on the packaging, as there are several different types of fertilizers. Following the instructions on the package will prevent the risk of over fertilizing which can lead to nutrient excess within the plants, or the burning of roots and foliage.
Like most other popular houseplants, string of turtles is one that can is resistant to disease and pests, though that does not mean it is impossible for this plant to suffer from ailments. The following are some of the most common problems to keep an eye out for, as well as prevention and treatment methods for each.
Mealybugs are a white, sap-sucking insect that produces honeydew that can lead to sooty mildew. They often hide on the underside of leaves and in tight crevices of new growth. They are easily treated with pesticides, an alcohol mixture, or beneficial insects. For more information on how to identify and treat mealybugs, check out the blog post titled Mealybugs and How to Deal with Them.
The pattern on the leaves, as well as which leaves on the plant are yellowing communicates what is happening with these plants. Most often for string of turtles, yellowing leaves indicates nutrient deficiencies, which can be resolved with fertilization. It will take time for the leaves to return to the lovely mottled, dark green they should be. If you have been fertilizing regularly, yellowing leaves are likely a sign of overwatering and the beginnings of root rot. Cut back on the watering and it should resolve within a couple weeks. If symptoms persist, repot your plant into fresh soil, inspecting the roots as you do. Remove any sickly roots as you find them.
Spider mites are a common pest in plants that like it a little more on the dry side when it comes to humidity. They are a sap-sucking insect that will leave little pinpoint yellow spots on the leaves and extremely fine webs between the leaves. They can be challenging to remove if not caught early. To learn more about early identification, signs, symptoms, and treatments, check out the blog post titled Spider Mites and How to Deal With Them.
Overall, this pet safe, beginner friendly plant is one of the most unique plants out there! The lovely, trailing vines with turtle like leaves will elevate any room you choose. This is an incredibly rewarding plant, as you watch the vines grow longer and longer. As always, if you are worried about your plant in any way, please do not be afraid to reach out! Send a few photos, as well as a short description of your care to cedarbridgebotanicals@gmail.com.
Happy growing!
<3 Gina
]]>Many of you may know me from various reptile expos around the Pittsburgh area where I sell the plants and cleanup crew that you need to build your pet the best and most successful bioactive enclosure as possible! A bioactive enclosure is one that includes live plants, soil, and a cleanup crew, usually consisting of isopods and springtails. The cleanup crew will consume decaying plant matter, waste from your pet, and mold, as well as help to fertilize your plants naturally. The goal of a bioactive enclosure is to give your pet something that is as close to their natural habitat as possible. An added bonus of turning your enclosure bioactive is the maintenance level. They typically only need spot cleaned in the sense of cleaning the glass, cleaning up any droppings you see, and trimming plants as needed, as well as any other maintenance your pet would typically need. Trimming plants and aerating soil should be done on an as-needed basis. With the goal of properly recreating your pet's natural habitat, you have to learn about your pet's origin!
Bearded dragons are native across Australia, mainly staying in arid climates such as deserts, scrublands, dry woodlands, and savannas. Australia banned the exportation of bearded dragons in the 1960s, however, they have been captive bred in the pet trade for decades in the US. In the wild, they are especially drawn to rocky outcroppings to bask in to help regulate their body temperatures. Bearded dragons are one of the most popular reptiles in the pet trade. Occasionally, keepers have complained about their bearded dragons eating the plants included in the bioactive setup. Several trusted breeders have shared that if your dragon gets plenty of greens daily, they are significantly less likely to take a nibble on your live plants in the enclosure. If your dragons are fed ample amounts of greens, they may still take a few nibbles here and there, but not enough to do significant damage to the plants chosen for your bioactive enclosure. Now that we have gone over where your pet is from, let's begin to go over some great options to put in your enclosure! All of the following plants are frequently found on my table and are often at most reptile expos!
Before we begin to discuss plants that will do well in a bearded dragon enclosure, I want to go over one that is often put in the same section as succulents, but will not do well. These are air plants, or Tillandsia. Air plants, while some have adapted to the more arid regions of the world, are still tropical plants. They are not desert plants and will not survive well in your pet's enclosure without significant additional assistance. They require humidity that is too high for the dragon to tolerate. For more information on air plant care, visit the care sheet titled "Air Plants- Tillandsia."
It is also important to note that not every plant found in the succulent section will be safe for your beardie. Cacti and other plants with thorns pose a risk to your pet's safety and well-being. They can cut and puncture the animal's skin, despite its scales. There are also some plants that are not safe if broken open or eaten. The most common succulent to watch out for is actually a whole genus of succulents, Euphorbia. Anything in the Euphorbia genus has latex sap that is toxic to pets. Some species within this genus have spines that would automatically rule them out, such as African milk trees or dragon bones, but other species do not. Pencil cacti and firesticks are likely to be the two most common thornless species of Euphorbia that you may come across.
In the lists of plants for gargoyle and crested geckos, as well as dart frogs, I mentioned some "always good" plants. These plants are great for most enclosures and thrive in a variety of conditions. In the list for leopard geckos, I mentioned how they would not tolerate the desert conditions needed for that species of gecko. While this is true, bearded dragons come from a wide variety of habitats, including some that can have a bit more rainfall than what the leopard gecko's native range experiences. These plants will be able to survive, as well as grow quickly, so if your dragon decides to take a bite, it will not cause any significant damage! It is still a good idea to plant these plants near the water source, so they may be watered a little more frequently if your dragon takes a swim or spills its water.
Spider plants may be related to asparagus, but it certainly acts more like a grass. It tolerates a mow very similarly to grass does, so if the plant begins to outgrow the enclosure, a simple cut back will help to mitigate that. They come in solid green, variegated, and curly! Spider plants will eventually send out the iconic pups. If these pups are allowed to touch the soil surface, they will root elsewhere in the enclosure. If you do not want it to spread, simply cut the bloom stalks as they form.
Pothos come in a variety of color variations. They can act as a ground cover or climb with supports. If provided enough humidity, the vines will grow aerial roots that attach to surfaces such as cork bark, wood, even foam backgrounds. The petioles are long enough to provide hiding areas for the young dragons if used as a groundcover, which is the most likely scenario when being grown in this type of habitat. Typically, pothos will only climb in tropical enclosures or if provided additional watering and supports until it can successfully attach itself to a surface. Pothos grow quickly and can tolerate a good mowing!
Groundcover plants are those that will stay short and eventually cover the substrate. They give additional places for your cleanup crew to hide, which is beneficial to them and your set up, as your pet won't be as likely to use the self-serve buffet. They can give your enclosure a unique appearance overall, if that is something you are trying to strive for.
Hoya is a genus of over 500 species, though only a few are available in cultivation. All are a pet safe option that can scratch that itch many of those with arid animals have- the desire to make their enclosures look lush. Plants that thrive in desert or semi-arid conditions often don't have big leaves, as that can lead to water loss, which can be devastating in dry climates. Hoya come in many colors and shapes, though they are all vines that will cover the ground or cascade over a ledge, potentially making a hide feel even safer. Hoya are moderate growers with a unique growth pattern. They will often, but not always, send out a long stem before they begin developing leaves. You can see this process in the bottom right of this photo. While it may look strange, fight the urge to trim off the "naked" vines, new leaves will come in time!
"String of things" is occasionally used as shorthand for a group of plants, that share similar common names. String of dolphins, pearls, hearts, spades, bananas, pickles, and turtles all fall into this category. Ironically, not all of these plants are related to one another, they just so happen to share a growth pattern. Not all "strings of things" will do well in an arid environment. String of pearls (Senecio rowleyanus), string of dolphins (Senecio peregrinus), string of hearts, (Ceropegia woodii), string of spades (Ceropegia linearis ssp. woodii), string of bananas (Senecio radicans), and string of pickles, sometimes called ruby necklace (Othonna capensis) are all wonderful choices to include in an arid enclosure.
But be warned, string of turtles, while also a "string of things" that is often found near the succulent section, will not tolerate the arid environment needed to keep your dragon happy. String of turtles (Peperomia prostrata) is an epiphytic vine native to the Brazilian rainforests and would feel much more at home in a tropical enclosure.
Sempervivum is a genus within the Jade family, Crassulaceae, containing about 40 species, often called house leeks or hens and chicks. They spread via offsets, sometimes accompanied by lateral growing stems, similar to the runners you see on strawberries. They will eventually fill the container they are in, forming a thick mat. They are easily controlled by trimming stems as they form, or simply by removing some plants if they become too much. Typically, the adult plants will be no taller than a few inches and can tolerate your bearded dragon walking across the top of them without issue.
Sedum is a large genus in the jade family containing somewhere between 400-500 species. There is considerable variety within the genus, and occasionally within the species, thanks to human intervention and the formation of cultivars. A member of the sedum genus you may be familiar with is burro's tail, Sedum morganianum. If you have ever grown a burro's tail or donkey tail succulent, you know the leaves fall off incredibly easily. This is intentional on the plant's part! Those leaves, if they fall in an area that suits the needs of the plant, will grow an entirely new plant. It is a survival technique! While not all sedum are so fragile, this is true for all sedum plants. If a section of stem or leaf breaks off of the plant, it will re root and continue to create new plants, which will lead to a faster groundcover effect in your vivarium. Don't be nervous if your dragon seems to take a liking to nibbling on these plants occasionally, many sedums are fast growers!
Understory in this case refers to plants that will grow taller than the groundcover plants, yet stay shorter than the plants listed in the canopy section. These are the "medium" plants, though some may grow as tall or taller than the canopy plants, they can be trimmed to fit this category.
Haworthia is another genus of succulents, this one containing about 150 species, all of which endemic to the countries of South Africa, Mozambique, Lesotho, Eswatini, and Namibia. These plants are often confused with aloe, which are in the same family. Haworthia fasciata is possibly the most common and most widely available species within this genus. This plant can grow up to 3 to 5 inches tall. It is also called the zebra plant, not to be confused with Aphelandra squarrosa, the zebra plant mentioned in the list for crested and gargoyle geckos. There is no relation between the two zebra plants and they cannot survive in the same conditions as one another. Haworthia cooperi is a species that will grow slow and adds an interesting component to your enclosure with its translucent leaves. While this species can grow up to ten inches tall, it is not often or by any means quickly that this happens. If you would like the translucent leaves of Haworthia cooperi but the size of Haworthia fasciata, then look no further than Haworthia cymbiformis, the cathedral window succulent. This species of Haworthia will grow to the smaller side of the zebra plant, about 3 inches tall. Another excellent choice of Haworthia would be Haworthia bayeri. This species sits closer to the ground than other species of Haworthia, which have a mostly upright habit across the genus. Instead of the leaves growing upwards, as shown in the photos, these leaves lay close to the ground and have a flat surface on the top portion of the leaves. They are a deep, gorgeous green and are not as translucent or light green as some of the other species with a similar growth habit.
Aloe is yet another genus on this list, this one containing over 650 species. With so many species, there is a lot of variety on height, color, and shape! The typical aloe that comes to mind is Aloe vera, sometimes called true aloe, which would be better fitted toward the canopy category. This is the species known for its medicinal benefits that treats burns. Aloe vera would give lovely height to your enclosure, while other aloes, such as the Aloe 'White Fox' would be better suited for this category, staying a similar size to many Haworthia. Some species of aloe have sharp spines on the sides of their leaves, so it is important to double check before purchasing. If it feels sharp to you, it will feel sharp to your bearded dragon.
Elephant bush, or Portulacaria afra, is often confused with the common jade, Crassula ovata. This species of succulent is often grown as a beginner bonsai experiment, it is extremely tolerant of pruning, whether that be from a needed trim or a nibble from your dragon. Native to Southern Africa, this plant can grow up to 15 feet tall in the wild, however it stays much smaller when grown as a houseplant. This is a unique addition to the enclosure, which can have a more shrub like appearance than other plants on this list. It is possible to keep it a small shrub, trim it into an amazing tree, or just allow it to grow naturally and only trim it to size. This means this plant is versatile and can fit into the understory or canopy category.
Echeveria is a large genus in the jade family. These plants are likely the ones that come to mind when you hear the word "succulent." They come in a range of sizes, colors, and leaf shapes, though they all grow in a rosette fashion. A good number of these species will eventually grow tall with naked stems near the bottom as they naturally lose their older leaves. It takes a good amount of time for most species to get to this point, but if you would rather keep these plants close to the ground, you can "restart" them by cutting the stem close to the surface of the substrate, leaving the stump and planting the top after allowing the stem to callous over for at least a few days. The stump will grow new heads of leaves and the top will eventually root back into the substrate, creating a new plant once again. The colors of these succulents range anywhere from pastel blues and pinks to deep reds, luscious greens and everything in between.
The canopy layer is the tallest layer in the forest, which is also why it is the tallest layer here. These plants are all intended to give vertical interest in the tank. It is not as crucial for bearded dragons as it is for other species, as they spend most of their time on the ground, only doing short climbs here and there. That being said, these still make the tank look nice and finished!
Opuntia is a genus of cacti with 150-180 species. Some of these species are thornless, either naturally or were bred to be that way through human intervention. Cacti are a wonderful snack for your bearded dragons, so when they begin to grow too tall or wide, the cactus trimmings can be added to their greens for the day! Some species have long, sharp thorns and others, like bunny ears, are even more dangerous. The species that appear as though they have soft, fuzzy tufts have glochids. Glochidium are typically barbed and come off more often easily than the thorns after they wedge themselves in the skin of the unlucky animal who passed too close or decided to take a nibble. Though it may seem as though your bearded dragon is well protected against this risk, they are incredibly small and can still stick in the skin of your pet. Should they decide to take a bite, their mouths would be filled with tiny, fragile glochids that are nearly impossible to remove. You will be able to tell visually if the prickly pear you are looking at is a thornless variety, but it is always safest to double check by running your finder along the areoles of the cactus, or the areas in which the thorns would emerge. If it is smooth, and you do not feel any pricks in your fingers after rubbing them together, this is a safe variety to include with your bearded dragon.
There are several species of snake plants, which come in all sorts of shapes and sizes. Some grow tall, while others stay short, perfect for the enclosure size. Snake plants are not fast growers and will take a while to outgrow an enclosure, if purchased small. Some species and varieties will never be tall enough to outgrow a properly sized enclosure. These are sturdy plants that an active dragon can climb across without causing harm to the plants. They tolerate low light and are often one of the first plants we think of when one is looking for a low light or drought tolerant plant. While these plants can tolerate low light, they do best in bright, indirect light or under a grow light. There are grow lights that emit UVB, which are also safe for reptile use. For more information about snake plant care, take a peek at the post titled "Snake Plant Care."
These come in two main forms, the Mexican ponytail palms that almost resemble an onion and the "traditional" ponytail palms with the thick, trunk-like caudex. These are not true palms and are accustomed to the dry, arid conditions that bearded dragons thrive in. The leaves drape down, and as the tree grows, it will give your beardie an area that is more enclosed, acting almost as a hide. These plants are native to the semi-arid areas of Central America. They've evolved to survive the dry conditions by storing water in their caudex.
"Jade plants" refers to any plants in the Crassula genus. Some are more common than others, such as Gollum fingers jade, sometimes called Ogre's Ears (pictured above) or Crassula ovata (right). Both of these plants are actually the same genus, the Gollum fingers variety is a mutated form of the original leaf shape. These plants can easily grow to the size of a small shrub outside in conditions they thrive in, or even in a pot, if given the proper conditions. However, these plants are often chosen to bonsai for beginners, making them great choices for medium sized plants in the vivarium. They can also be used as a tall canopy plant, if you would prefer. Other species of jade, such as watch chains (Crassula muscosa), rattlesnake tail (Crassula barklyi), and string of buttons (Crassula perforata), as well as many other species, will stay shorter and fit within this understory size. All species of jade are safe to plant in with your leopard gecko. With over 200 species and a good amount of them available in cultivation, you can surely have the pick of the litter!
It can be overwhelming to begin building your bioactive enclosure, especially when it comes to choosing which plants to include that all have the same requirements, will stay small enough with minimal trimming, and are reptile safe. Choosing one or two plants from each category will put you well on your way to building a wonderful enclosure that your beardie will thrive in! Be sure you still have plenty of space for the necessities like food and water bowls when planning the layout of the plants.
A key part of giving the plants in the bioactive enclosure the best chance of survival is allowing the tank to rest before adding your pet. It is best to allow bioactive tanks of this nature at least one month to establish itself before your dragon has a chance to explore its new habitat. Allowing the enclosure the chance to establish itself not only gives the plants the best chance of survival, after their roots begin to take hold, but also will allow your cleanup crew to find all the best places to hide in order to stay safe before your bearded dragon is introduced. It is ideal to wait until the plants begin to put on new growth, which can happen in the month time frame, but doesn't always. Keeping your pet in a temporary or quarantine tank for this time frame will make a significant impact on the success of your bioactive tank.
As always, if you have any questions on how to assemble your bioactive enclosure or what you should include, please send me an email at cedarbridgebotanicals@gmail.com.
Happy growing!
<3
]]>Begonia is the genus containing more than 2,000 species in the begonia family, Begoniaceae. Begonias are often found growing wild in warm, moist, tropical and subtropical areas. Several species are grown as annuals outdoors for a pop of color in shady locations. Many species grow in the understory of rainforests. The leaves of these plants are large, often marked with diverse colors and patterns. The base of the leaves are oblique, one side attaching to the petiole closer to the stem than the other. There are three main types of begonias, depending on their root structure. These types are fibrous, tuberous and rhizomatous. Fibrous begonias are the ones you often see planted outdoors or sold in the annual section of the garden center. Tuberous begonias have large flowers reminiscent of roses. Rhizomatous begonias often have larger, showier leaves with insignificant flowers. Luckily for us, most of the species in cultivation have similar care requirements, due to their similar natural habitats and environments. These tropical wonders will give an impressive pop of color to any room in your home!
Begonias are one houseplant that can tolerate lower light than most. If planting them as annuals outside, be sure there is plentiful shade. Some species with bronze leaves can tolerate full sun, though it is not true for all bronze leaf varieties. If a begonia is planted in conditions with too much sun, they will get sunburn. Sunburn looks like big swaths of brown on the leaves. The brown portions will not heal and will remain on the plant for the life of the leaf. Indoors, they appreciate bright indirect light, if you can provide it, but tolerate low light conditions, though some species will become leggy if kept in similar lighting as the low end of the spectrum for snake plants or prayer plants. If the space between the leaves becomes long, and the leaves all face one direction towards the light, this is called etiolation and the plant is in need of more light. This can be achieved with a simple relocation, or with the addition of a grow light. Grow lights carry the same risk as the sun. Each grow light is different, so be sure to follow the directions on the packaging. Most grow lights suggest a distance of 12-18 inches above the plant, though some that may even be too close. Always check the manufacturer's suggestions before mounting your grow light.
Begonias are similar to ferns when it comes to watering in both indoor and outdoor conditions. If outside in the ground, they prefer average to slightly moist conditions, though they are prone to root rot if in an overly wet location or area with poor drainage. Indoors or in pots, allow the soil to dry slightly before watering again. Always check the soil before watering. When in a pot, allow the soil to dry approximately an inch down or 25% of the soil mass. When watering, be sure to saturate the entirety of the soil, especially in a pot. When watering from the top of a pot, this looks like watering until excess drains from the bottom. If watering from the bottom, this means placing a pot in a dish or bowl of water until the surface of the soil is damp. This could take minutes or hours, depending on the size of the pot and may require you to add more water to the dish halfway through the watering process. If watering in the ground, continue to add water until you can kick away the mulch and the soil beneath is visibly wet.
Most begonias grow in areas with soils naturally rich in organic matter, or the "dirt" part of potting soil. Some species grow in areas such as cliff faces, though for most begonias, regular potting soil will work well for potted begonias. If planting in the ground, try to avoid areas with heavy clay or poor drainage, as this can lead to root rot if the area remains too wet for too long. Though, if your soil is too rocky, or drains too quickly, begonias will not have the chance to uptake the water that they need before the soil dries out.
Like many other common houseplants, begonias are not overly prone to pests or diseases, but it does not mean they are immune! The following are a few common problems to keep an eye out for and how to treat them if it comes to that point.
Mealybugs are a white, sap-sucking insect that produces honeydew that can lead to sooty mildew. They often hide on the underside of leaves and in tight crevices of new growth. They are easily treated with pesticides, an alcohol mixture, or beneficial insects. For more information on how to identify and treat mealybugs, check out the blog post titled Mealybugs and How to Deal with Them.
If it is on the top surface of the leaf, this is powdery mildew, but if a similar looking problem is on the underside, it is downy mildew. Luckily, they're both easy to treat and prevent. Keeping your area well ventilated is a great way to prevent fungal issues from occurring. When you water, take care to avoid wetting the leaves to help prevent fungal infections from occurring. It is easy to treat with a foliar fungicide spray, such as copper fungicide. Always follow the directions on the bottle when applying any form of pesticide.
This is another type of fungal infection. Unlike the previous powdery and downy mildews, this infection does not have the potential to clear up entirely. All of the same preventative measures apply, as well as similar treatment methods, though you may want to consider a fungicide drench or systemic treatment. Monitor the brown circles and be sure they do not spread to new leaves or increase in side. The brown is necrotic and will not heal. If the browning is more of a swath than a circle and seems to follow the areas of the leaf that get the most light, this is sunburn and does not need a pesticide treatment, but to be moved to a shadier area or away from grow lights.
Spider mites are a common pest in plants that like it a little more on the dry side when it comes to humidity. They are a sap-sucking insect that will leave little pinpoint yellow spots on the leaves and extremely fine webs between the leaves. They can be challenging to remove if not caught early. To learn more about early identification, signs, symptoms, and treatments, check out the blog post titled Spider Mites and How to Deal With Them.
Just the tips of the leaves turning brown indicates there is not enough humidity for the begonia to thrive. Removing the brown is up to you, as it will not heal nor cause problems in the future by leaving it on. Moving your plant to the bathroom or the kitchen may help to resolve this issue, as those tend to be the rooms with the highest humidity. You could also invest in a humidifier and place it near the begonia. It does not need to run constantly, but a few hours each day will be beneficial.
Overall, begonias can take some getting used to when it comes to caring for them as houseplants, but take to shade gardens outdoors well. They are a wonderful plant for someone who loves to love on their plants! They come in all sorts of shapes and colors, a collection of only begonias would still be an amazing thing to see! As always, if you are worried about any of your plants in any way, please do not be afraid to reach out. Send a brief description of care, as well as several photos of your plant to cedarbridgebotanicals@gmail.com and I will be able to help!
Happy Growing!
<3 Gina
]]>Before we begin to dive into the specifics on each species on this list, there is something important to note. There is a difference between grasses and sedges, though they are often lumped together as one. Sedges are in the family Cyperaceae, while grasses are in the family Poaceae. The grass family is the fifth largest plant family, that includes familiar members such as bamboo or wheat. Cyperaceae is considerably smaller, yet still a large family. Sedges and grasses are easy to tell apart with the mneumonic "sedges have edges." Sedges have usually triangular cross sections, with their leaves forming whorls, while grasses have round cross sections with alternate leaves. Rushes are another grass-like plant that can often be grouped together or closely associated. Juncaceae, the rush family, is considerably smaller than the previous two. While none of these plant family members are closely related to those of the other two families, they are all similar to one another both in form and, occasionally, ecological function.
Always be sure to double check the native range of plants before you install them into your landscape, only to later find out that you are outside of their native range. This list will focus on the Pittsburgh area and the northeast, though many of these plants have an extensive range. If the specific species does not extend its range into your region, there is a high chance that there is a closely related species in the same genus that is! The following list is in no particular order and each species has its own pros and cons. Allow us to begin with one species many of us may already be familiar with.
Zones: 4-9
Size: 3-6 feet tall, 1-3 feet wide
Sun: 6+ hours
Wildlife: butterflies and moths, insects, mammals, small birds
Big bluestem is one of the charismatic grasses, it is almost a celebrity when it comes to native grasses. As a warm season grass, it grows the most and the best during the warm summer months. This plant grows well in most circumstances and is easily grown in average to dry soils in full sun. Use this grass as an accent in the landscape, as you would other decorative grasses you may be more familiar with. The root system is extensive, more so than turf grasses. While it takes a while to establish, once it has the chance to get settled, it has wonderful drought tolerance. In fall, the foliage displays wonderful fall color ranging from golden to pink.
This plant is a larval host for a variety of butterflies, including the northern pearly eye, common wood nymph, and various skipper species. Many species of insects, including lightning bugs, will use the grasses as shelter. Small mammals and birds will also take shelter in the living plants. Some species of birds will use the foliage from past years' growth to build their nests.
Zones: 3-8
Size: 6-12 inches tall and wide
Sun: 2-6+ hours, dappled shade
Wildlife: butterflies, moths, moths, small plants
Penn sedge also goes by wood sedge or oak sedge. Many species of grasses need to have full sun in order to thrive, but Pennsylvania sedge can tolerate full sun to deep shade and everything in between. While it does best in dry part to full shade, if grown in full sun conditions, it will benefit from a more moist environment. As a cool season sedge, this plant will grow best in spring and fall when temperatures are cooler. This is a wonderful lawn substitution, especially for the shady parts of the lawn, though it will not tolerate heavy food traffic. When allowed to grow, this sedge will create a wonderful, rolling-meadow appearance to your lawns. It will only need mowed once or twice per season, as this doesn't grow tall.
Various satyr butterfly larvae will use this plant as a larval host. Some birds will use the older foliage to make nests. Insects will use the foliage as shelter.
Zones: 3-9
Size: 2-4 feet tall, 1-2 feet wide
Sun: 6+ hours
Wildlife: butterflies and moths, grasshoppers, leafhoppers, insects, birds, small mammals
While their common names may seem to indicate the contrary, big and little bluestem are botanical cousins, rather than siblings. They're both true grasses, but they are in different genera. Little bluestem's range runs nearly coast to coast, only a few states in the continental USA are excluded from its territory. While this grass is growing, it is valued for its wonderful blueish coloration, in fall the color transforms to a deep purple with a hint of brown. Some varieties have a brilliant red or chestnut color. In fall, the grass will sport white, airy seed heads. This species is tenacious, tolerating a wide range of soils, including clay, as well as superb drought tolerance, but also surviving well in areas with moist soils.
Little bluestem provides cover for birds, small mammals and insects year round. Winter is especially important for overwintering sites. Without shelter during the winter, insects and other animals may not survive the harsh season. Often, bumblebee queens will be seen nesting at the bases of grasses for the cold season until they emerge in spring. Little bluestem is one of the grasses they are often seen nesting in. Several species of skipper butterflies use them as larval host plants. Spittle bugs, grasshoppers, and a variety of other insects also feed on their stems. Songbirds will feed on their seeds.
Zones: 5-9
Size: 3-6 feet tall, 2-3 feet wide
Sun: 4-6+ hours
Wildlife: birds, mammals, pollinators
Panicum virgatum is a warm season grass, growing the most in the hot summer months. It is a clump forming grass that spreads via rhizomes and readily self seeds, making it one of the last recommendations for smaller areas, lest it take over. The bunching habit is important. It allows for small animals and birds to run through the tall grasses while still being sheltered from above by the grass canopy. Allowing non native turf grasses to grow does not have the same effect as the bunch grasses and will be too dense for the animals who utilize the paths under the bunch grasses to travel. Swithgrass is a wonderfully versatile grass that can tolerate a wide range of soil and moisture conditions. While it grows best in moist sandy or clay soils, it can tolerate both dry soils and occasional flooding. Full sun is best for this species of grass, as part shade may cause the grass to grow with a more open habit and potentially fall over. In fall, this grass will turn a brilliant golden color. This species of grass is tall enough to use as a screen, an accent in the landscape, or as a back border planting.
This is another species of grass that will provide important cover for wildlife all year round. This is another host plant for several skipper butterflies, as well as the common wood nymph. The seeds provide an important food source for songbirds and mammals in winter.
Zones: 3-8
Size: 2-5 feet tall, 1-2 feet wide
Sun: 4-6+ hours
Wildlife: caterpillars, birds, mammals
River oats, Northern sea oats, wood oats, wild oats, and Chasmanthium latifolium are all names for the same plant. This grass is easily identified by its characteristic ornamental inflorescences and seed heads, which droop in an elegant, arching fashion. This is a wonderful grass for areas with lower lighting, as many of our native grasses require full sun to thrive. Tolerant of almost any soil conditions, river oats do the best when planted in an area with consistently moist soils. It is tolerant of mesic soils, as well, but thrives in rain gardens. You may recognize the seed heads from floral arrangements, where they are featured regularly. They turn a lovely golden, sometimes with shades of purple in the fall. The leaves will become a rich yellow in the fall, if given enough sunlight. This grass naturally occurs along the water's edge and in wetter areas. While it self seeds easily, if wild oats become too over crowded, they are easily divided and removed or replanted.
Several species of butterflies and moths will use this plant as a host plant for their caterpillars, such as skippers and northern pearly eyes. The seeds are an important food source for small mammals and birds. The grass provides cover needed for wildlife to hide from predators and the elements.
Zones: 3-9
Size: 12 inches tall, 24 inches wide
Sun: 2-6+ hours
Wildlife: pollinators, birds, small mammals
Possibly the most versatile plant on this list, this sedge can tolerate full sun to full shade, wet to dry soils, and a wide range of soil types. If planted in a dry location, be sure there is enough shade to allow this plant to thrive. This species of sedge makes a wonderful addition to landscapes with its short profile, perfect for bed borders. As an evergreen to semi-evergreen, wood sedge adds interest to the landscape year-round. This plant is deer and rabbit resistant and has potential to spread aggressively if there is a lot of bare soil or mulch in an area, though is also easy to contain with manual pulling and division. If planted in a cottage style garden, where the landscape beds are full to the brim with plants, it will not spread as aggressively as it does in disturbed or unoccupied areas.
Various species of insects will use wood sedge as shelter and protection from predators, as well as a food source. Some of these insects include lightning bugs, several butterfly larvae, and leaf hoppers. Many songbirds, game birds, and squirrels will feed on their seeds.
Zones: 4-9
Size: 3-5 feet tall, 1-2 feet wide
Sun: 6+ hours
Wildlife: Songbirds, mammals, grasshoppers, pollinators
Indian grass is a tall, warm season bunch grass, making it wonderful for accents in the landscape around the home. This grass is a dominant species in tall grass prairies in certain parts of the country, tolerating both rocky and clay soils medium to dry soils. It has the potential to naturalize an area by self seeding in ideal conditions, though seedlings are easily maintained by manual pulling. If grown in areas with more moisture, the growth habit tends to be more open than in mesic or dry areas. It tolerates occasionally wet soils well. During active growth, the leaves are green with a tint of blue, which will turn a wonderful shade of yellow-orange in fall. Sorghastrum nutans is deer resistant.
Indian grass is a larval host plant for a variety of skipper butterflies and is a preferred food choice for some species of grasshoppers. It provides excellent cover for small mammals, insects, and birds year-round. The seeds are eaten by songbirds and small mammals.
Zones: 3-9
Size: 2-3 feet tall and wide
Sun: 4-6+ hours
Wildlife: songbirds, insects
Prairie dropseed is a grass that is highly recommended for use in home landscaping. It has a soft, feathery visual texture and stays a small size with little to no maintenance. Another clumping, warm season grass, this plant does best with average to dry, well drained soils in full sun though is tolerant of a wide variety of soils, including heavy clay. Though it is a slow grower and slow to establish, it has wonderful drought tolerance when it becomes settled into the landscape. The USDA has prairie dropseed listed as endangered in several states of its native range including Ohio and North Carolina. In many more states and provinces within its range, its populations are in decline. You can find this species of grass growing naturally in prairies and glades nearly across the continent. During active growth, the leaves are a bright green which then turn coppery brown in fall.
Like many other grasses on this list, Sporobolus heterolepis is the host plant of choice for some species of skipper butterflies. Grasshoppers and leafhoppers use this plant as a food source, as well as various songbirds that snack on the seeds. Insects such as lightning and ladybugs will use the grass as a hiding space during their sleeping hours.
Zones: 5-9
Size: 1-2 feet tall and wide
Sun: 6+ hours
Wildlife: birds, small mammals
This is possibly the most unique grass on this list. It earns the "purple" portion of its name with the airy, almost cloud or mist like purple seeds this grass produces. It is easily used as a small accent plant or a border plant in the landscape. Purple love grass is one that tolerates dry conditions and will naturalize well in a rock garden or other areas with sandy soils. This grass is tolerant of road salts and black walnut, though struggles in heavy clay or wet soils.
Small insects will use this plant as cover during their sleeping hours, such as lightning bugs. Eragrostis spectabilis is a larval host plant for several species of moths and butterflies. It is also a frequent buffet location for a large variety of herbivorous insects. Birds will use the dried seed heads and leaf blades from last season to create their nests. Birds and small mammals eat the seeds.
Zones: 4-9
Size: 4-7 feet tall and wide
Sun: 4-6+ hours
Wildlife: birds, pollinators, small mammals
Cord grass is an incredibly important wetland species. This plant does best in average to wet loamy soils, and can be found growing along the water's edge, wet prairies, swamps, and other similar habitats. While it performs best in loam, it can adapt well to a wide variety of soil types if adequate moisture is provided. Spartina pectinata is a warm season grass that typically grows about as wide as it is tall, meaning it may not be suitable for small landscaping projects. The leaves of this species have sharp edges, so be mindful and wear gloves when working with it. The leaves are a deep green when in the growing season and turn to a warm yellow in fall.
The seed heads of this grass provide an important food source to a variety of insects, ducks, geese, muskrats, and other wetland wildlife. The rootstock is often eaten by some of the same animals. Cord grass is a host plant for a variety of moth species in their larval stage. This grass also provides important nesting sites for wetland wildlife.
Grasses and sedges are incredibly important to our ecology. They provide food for a large swath of animals, provide hiding places and habitats to even more, help to prevent erosion, and so much more. Adding native grasses and sedges to the landscaping around your home can add a excellent accent or border, as well as a place to house some caterpillars or lightning bugs. They give building material for birds to create their nests with, and beauty for us to enjoy. While it may seem as though just replacing a few non native plants with native ones in your landscape doesn't make much of an impact, little bits add up! If everyone in the neighborhood did the same, transform as much of their landscaping into native plants as they can, amazing changes would begin to take place. More butterflies and birds would come to town for us to enjoy! Changes like this don't have to happen all at once. Replacing a few plants at a time is a great way to dip your toes into native gardening. If we all work together, we can make big change!
Carex blanda (common woodland sedge). Minnesota Wildflowers a Field Guide. (n.d.). https://www.minnesotawildflowers.info/grass-sedge-rush/common-woodland-sedge
Carex pensylvanica. Carex pensylvanica (Oak Sedge, Pennsylvania Sedge, Plantainleaf Sedge, Rush, Sedge, Sedges, Seersucker Sedge) | North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. (n.d.). https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/carex-pensylvanica/
Chasmanthium latifolium. Missouri Botanical Garden. (n.d.). https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?kempercode=a240
Common Woodland Sedge (Carex blanda). Illinois Wildflowers. (n.d.). https://illinoiswildflowers.info/grasses/plants/cm_wdsedge.htm
New England Wild Flower Society (http://plantfinder.nativeplanttrust.org). (n.d.). Eragrostis spectabilis. New England Wild Flower Society. https://plantfinder.nativeplanttrust.org/plant/Eragrostis-spectabilis
Schizachyrium scoparium - little bluestem. Prairie Moon Nursery. (n.d.). https://www.prairiemoon.com/schizachyrium-scoparium-little-bluestem-prairie-moon-nursery.html
Sporobolus heterolepis. USDA Fire Effects Information System (FEIS). (n.d.). https://www.fs.usda.gov/database/feis/plants/graminoid/spohet/all.html
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Many of you know me from various reptile expos around the Pittsburgh area where I sell plants and clean up crews to help you get your very own bioactive enclosure up and running for your pets! A bioactive enclosure is one that includes plants, soil, and a clean up crew usually consisting of microfauna such as springtails and isopods. The clean up crew will help to eat any mold, decaying plant material, and droppings from your animals, as well as help to fertilize your plants. Essentially, you are creating your very own mini ecosystem! Bioactive enclosures are meant to mimic the natural environment of your pet as much as possible, while also creating a low maintenance enclosure. Caring for a bioactive enclosure is as easy as spot cleaning, picking up droppings as you see them, cleaning the glass, and any other care your pet may need, such as misting. Trimming plants and aerating the soil should be done on an as needed basis. To properly replicate your pet's natural habitat, you must first learn about where your pet comes from.
Poison dart frogs live in the rain forests of Central and South America where they get their poison from the diet they eat in the wild. In captivity, the frogs do not have access to the same insects as they would in the wild, therefore they will not have the same toxic traits. There are around 200 species contained within the dart frog family, but not all are available in the pet trade. Of the 16 genera, only about four are common in the pet trade. Though there is so much variety contained within this group of frogs and they cover a few different habitats, all of the habitats have two main things in common: foliage and moisture. With that in mind, let's go over some plants that would thrive in the conditions the frogs need.
There are a couple of plants I call "always good" plants. These are ones that can tolerate a wide range of conditions and are a tried and true plant to be used in a variety of enclosures, especially tropical enclosures. These plants can tolerate some severe abuse, both in the sense of physical that your animals may inflict and with care. Though this list is short, it will not steer you wrong.
Pothos come in a variety of color variations. They can act as a ground cover or climb with supports. The vines will grow aerial roots that attach to surfaces such as cork bark, wood, even foam backgrounds. The petioles are long enough to provide hiding areas for the frogs if used as a groundcover, yet sturdy enough to hold the frogs, should they choose to climb them instead.
Spider plants may be related to asparagus, but it certainly acts more like a grass. It tolerates a mow very similarly to grass does, so if the plant begins to outgrow the enclosure, a simple cut back will help to mitigate that. They come in solid green, variegated, and curly! Spider plants will eventually send out the iconic pups. If these pups are allowed to touch the soil surface, they will root elsewhere in the enclosure. If you do not want it to spread, simply cut the bloom stalks as they form.
Groundcover plants are those that grow along the ground and can eventually fill out the substrate surface. They often give nice places for your isopods and springtails to hide. They can help to mitigate the need for replacing leaf litter consistently as it decomposes, as this will act as a living leaf litter. While it may not completely rid the need for leaf litter, it can help limit the amount used.
String of Turtles is a very popular houseplant. It is called such because its circular leaves look like the shells of turtles! This plant goes by the latin name Peperomia prostrata. You will often find them displayed in the succulent section, however they are not succulents. They are tropical plants native to Brazil, making them the perfect plant for the tropical enclosure needed for your frogs. The native range of this plant and several species of frogs overlaps, meaning this may be one they would come across in the wild. As a slow to moderate grower in most circumstances, this plant does not need much maintenance in an enclosure.
Despite its common name, this plant is not a pothos at all! This is Scindapsus pictus, sometimes also called the silver satin pothos due to the satin like appearance of the leaves. This is another popular houseplant native to Borneo, Sumatra, the Philippines, and the surrounding areas. It functions similarly to a pothos in the vivarium setting, able to climb, trail, or act as a ground cover. This doesn't grow quite as vigorously as pothos and requires less trimming, if you are looking for a similar vine with less maintenance.
Strawberry begonias are not strawberries, nor begonias. It gets this name by having a begonia-like appearance to the leaves, and sending out runners, like strawberries. Other common names include creeping saxifrage, roving sailor, Aaron's beard, and creeping rockfoil. It will flower lovely white flowers high above the leaves. This plant is native to China, Japan, and Korea. This plant overall tolerates the humidity well and is a wonderful choice for an interesting groundcover.
Tradescantia, spiderworts or inch plants, come in various sizes and colors. They all do swimmingly as houseplants and enclosure plants alike. They grow very quickly which can be both a blessing and a curse. Consider the size of your enclosure and the frequency at which you are willing to trim plants in order to decide if you should add this plant to your enclosure. They are a favorite among chameleon keepers, as they grow fast enough to tolerate the damage their pets can do. If your frogs are particularly destructive, this may be a good choice for you.
Selaginella is the only living genus in the family of spike mosses, Selaginellaceae. They are an ancient plant and do very well as groundcover for the more horizontal species. Some species grow more upright, which will stay small, just a few inches tall. It is a great plant for any area that stays a little too wet, like by the water bowl, or in enclosures with high humidity.
In the jungle setting, all of the plants on this list would be considered either understory or groundcover plants. When you shrink the jungle down to fit in your reptile room, the terms can switch definitions a bit. Understory plants are those that are taller than groundcover plants, but are still shorter than those that would grow to be as tall as the enclosure.
Prayer plants are those within the Maranta and Calathea genera. These plants are named such, as the leaves fold up at night, as if they are folding their hands in prayer, but lay flat to absorb sunlight during the day. They range in size and have a moderate to slow growth rate, meaning trimming will not be frequently necessary. When trimming this plant, be sure to trim the stem, not the petiole, or the portion of the plant that connects the leaf to the stem. To learn more about the the care for each genus, take a peek at the posts titled "Calathea Care" and "Maranta Care."
Rex begonias are the most common, but all begonias are going to provide both wonderful color and texture with their leaves. For the frogs, the leaves act as surfaces to climb on and hide under. Begonias can be tough to take care of in the houseplant setting, as they need high humidity and moisture in order to thrive, just like frogs. Many begonias also have showy flowers to add to the aesthetic appeal. Begonia species range in color from shades of green with white polka dots to deep reds, nearly to black. Some species of begonias grow tall. These species are easy to trim if they begin to outgrow the tank. Trimming these begonias will also give them a bushier appearance as they grow back.
Air plants and bromeliads are an easy way to have greenery at any point on the background or in the sticks and climbs that should be provided for your frogs. Air plants will not survive being planted or laid on the substrate. The easiest way to mount your air plants is to use fishing line. Just be sure to trim any excess line and there are not gaps between the line and the decor you are tying it to, to ensure there is no risk to your pet getting tangled in the invisible line. This will allow you to remove the air plant if you need to give it additional water via a soak (see the blog post titled Air Plants- Tillandsia for more information on care), though this is unlikely to be necessary if the frogs are being kept at proper humidity levels. They come in all sorts of shapes and sizes, there is an air plant for every enclosure!
Bromeliads are related to air plants and come in two main forms: epiphytic and terrestrial. Terrestrial bromeliads are ones that will do wonderfully when planted in the soil, but epiphytic bromeliads, similar to epiphytic orchids, can tolerate being planted in an airy soil or being mounted in a similar way as described for the air plants above. For more information on bromeliad care, see the post titled "Bromeliad Care." If the bromeliads are thriving, your conditions are perfect or nearly perfect for your frogs! Bromeliads provide another climbing surface for your frogs, but beware- not all bromeliads are created equally. Some have sharp spines on the edges of the leaves which pose a risk to your frogs.
Nerve plants, or Fittonia sp., are very similar to and can be substituted for polka dot plants. The nerve plants are native to the tropical rain forests of South America, mainly Peru. This means the native range may overlap with some species of poison dart frogs. The "nerves" of the plant range in color from white to red and do best in terrariums or vivariums where the soil is moist and humidity is high, just as the frogs like. These plants more provide color and hiding areas, rather than climbing surfaces for the frogs. It is unlikely that these plants will be able to support adult frogs on their leaves, but do not underestimate the importance of hides to keep your animals as happy and healthy as possible.
Ferns are a plant that enjoy high humidity and a moist substrate. Ferns provide a lot of leaves and greenery for your frogs to use as a hide. Birdsnest ferns have thick leaves that will be able to hold dart frogs, maiden hair ferns have light and airy leaves that frogs can make their way between and feel safe and protected in. There are so many ferns in between you can choose from! Each species of fern can be used in slightly different ways, but they will all provide a place for your frogs to feel safe within.
You may also hear this plant referred to as the UFO plant. Both common names are in reference to their leaf shape, near perfect circles resembling UFOs or coins. This plant is native to areas of Southern China. With an upright growth habit, the leaves will provide a strong enough surface for the frogs to climb. This plant also has the common name "Pass it on plant" as it produces pups, or baby plants from the roots. Should the pups get to be too extensive, they can be easily removed from the tank with a trim or by digging the plantlets and transplanting them to another enclosure.
Canopy in this sense refers to any plants that will grow to the top of the enclosure. These plants are going to be the tallest ones, allowing for vertical interest while looking at the tank, and vertical space to climb and hide.
This is a plant with interesting leaves, sometimes called the African Mask Plant, typically grows 1-2 feet tall. The thick, glossy leaves can hold reptiles heavier than you may expect. This plant does have the ability to go dormant, dying fully back to the soil level, if the substrate is kept too dry. This plant will stay in an active growth, so long as the substrate isn't allowed to stay extremely dry for a long period of time. Keeping the substrate at a proper moisture level for your reptile will help to prevent this. The large, strong leaves will provide both a climbing surface, as well as a nice place to hide for your frogs. For more information on how to properly care for this plant, visit the blog post titled "Alocasia Polly Care."
Anthurium is a genus of plants that range in both size and price. The most common anthurium also goes by the common name Flamingo Flower. They have some on the longest lasting flowers. The red bract, the modified leaf surrounding the spadix, will last for weeks on end. They are strong enough to support the frogs' climbing tendencies. They prefer the high humidity the frogs need. Anthuriums are from the same region of Central and South America as the poison dart frogs, so this would be a familiar plant to your frogs.
Dracaena is a wide and varied genus in the asparagus family, now containing plants that used to be in the Sanseveria genus. I would like to note before continuing that snake plants, those that used to be classified as Sanseveria are not included in those that would do well in a dart frog enclosure. They need substrate that is too dry and would be more suited to leopard geckos or bearded dragons. Tropical dracaena, sometimes called dragon trees or corn plants, don't always have leaves that can support a frog, some of which can support a smaller frogs. There are some species that stay smaller and could be classified as an understory plant, while others grow tall. The trunks can support a frog, no problem, but the species with thin leaves are going to provide more of a hiding spot than anything. Hides are important to make your frogs feel safe. Species with wider leaves will be able to support adult poison dart frogs.
Money tree stumps are money trees that were allowed to grow to a significantly larger size, then cut back to achieve a certain appearance. These money tree "stumps" are still very alive, growing new leaves similar to that of the umbrella plant out of the top of the stump, near the cut. This results in a nice, living piece of log for your frogs to climb! If the leaves are knocked off, no worries, they will regrow. These plants are very resilient and low light tolerant, making them fantastic for a frog's enclosure and an excellent climb. The leaves at the top of the stump will provide a nice, concealed space for your frogs to feel safe.
Philodendron is a large and varied genus in the Araceae family. So varied, in fact, that philodendrons can occupy every section of the enclosure, groundcover, understory, and canopy. Some philodendrons, like the one pictured above, have more of a shrub-like pattern while others upward and will easily attach itself to foam backgrounds or wood to sturdy itself. There are also philodendrons that grow in an extremely similar way to a pothos, but with a speed between the pothos and scindapsus, a moderate pace. There is truly a philodendron for any space in the tank. Some philodendron will quickly and easily outgrow the size of the tanks. Some great species of philodendron to fall back on include P. 'Birkin', P. hederaceum, P. micans, P. 'Silver Sword', and many more!
Choosing one or two plants from each category will help you to create a perfect bioactive enclosure for your frogs. No matter if you choose to use groundcover plants or not, leaf litter will be a necessity for the frogs. Having plants in the enclosure does not mean there does not need to be other elements for the frogs to climb and explore. Branches, hides, and other elements should be considered when you are building a vivarium for your pets. This is especially true for the times your plants need to grow into their environments, such as immediately after building or after having been cut back. Remember to leave space for these necessities, it is easy to get carried away!
It is best if the bioactive enclosure is given about a month to rest and allow the plants to acclimate to their new environment before adding the animals. This will allow the plants to become more established and provide the highest chance for success for all of the plants. Adding plants can also change humidity, adding a thermometer/hygrometer while the enclosure rests before you add the frogs can help you to understand where the humidity rests naturally. Consider keeping your frogs in a temporary or quarantine enclosure during this time, or setting up the bioactive enclosure before getting the frogs. Allowing the enclosure to rest will also allow your cleanup crew to familiarize themselves to the new surroundings and discover the safe and unsafe areas to roam without the risk of being eaten by the frogs.
Like the frog photos included in this article? All of the photos come from Pick Your Poison Darts, a local poison dart frog breeder! If you have any questions on which dart frogs to choose for yourself or questions on care, email them at aron9183@comcast.net or follow them on Facebook to see where they will be next! They're often at reptile expos surrounding the Pittsburgh area.
As always, if you have any questions about plants or how to build the enclosure, please feel free to contact me at cedarbridgebotanicals@gmail.com
Happy Growing and happy frogs!
<3 Gina
]]>Anything in the Crassula genus contains about 200 separate species, all of which can be called jade plants. Most often, when someone says "jade plant" they are talking specifically about Crassula ovata. Characterized by dark green leaves, occasionally plants will have lighter green leaves with red margins. The ogre ears or gollum fingers jade is still a species of Crassula ovata. Most of the varieties available in cultivation originate from South Africa. Luckily for us, they all have the same basic care! They are a wonderful beginner succulent for those looking to get into the succulent craze.
Like other succulents, jades need bright light in order to thrive. Depending on their growing conditions beforehand, they may be able to tolerate full sun immediately, but giving them slow adjustments will always be the safest bet. If you move a plant that is used to dimmer conditions straight out into full sun without protection in the form of shade, the plants will get sunburn. On jades, sunburn will look like brown spots on the leaves where the sun hit them the most and will not heal. Slowly giving them more light over the course of a few weeks will mitigate this risk. Plants that don't receive enough light will lengthen, lean toward the light, and may tilt their leaves downward in an attempt to capture as much light as possible. The process of plants becoming leggy and leaning toward the light is called etiolation. If you notice your plant showing signs of too little light, but there is not a brighter location in your home to move it to, you can set up grow lights. Grow lights carry the same risk of sunburn as the sun does, so it is important to be sure they are mounted far enough away from the plant. Every grow light manufacturer is different, so it is best to follow the recommendation on the packaging. Most lights suggest being mounted 12-18 inches away from the highest point of the plant.
Succulents of all kinds are known for their lack of water and jades are no exception. Watering on a schedule, such as every Monday for example, is not going to benefit your plant. Jade need the soil to dry completely before the next watering. Alternatively, and a surefire method to prevent overwatering is to wait until the leaves become pliable before watering. The soil will have fully dried by this point. When watering, be sure to completely saturate the soil. With succulents, this may mean allowing the pot to soak in a water bath, as potting soil can become hydrophobic, meaning it will not easily absorb water. While it may seem counter intuitive to douse a succulent so the soil is completely saturated, this is the best way to water. Over watering is not the amount of water given in one session, but the frequency. If plants are given small amounts of water at a more frequent interval, the center of the soil is not allowed to fully dry. This will not allow the roots to perform the necessary gas exchange, similar to the process leaves perform. Without the ability to "breathe" the roots will suffocate and die. This is root rot. By saturating the soil and allowing it to dry to the plant's preferred level, in this case completely dry, this will prevent the root rot and will promote healthy growth. The best way to remember how to properly water is with a drought/flood cycle.
Succulents do best in well drained soils. While it is possible for them to thrive in typical potting soil, it is not always the most beginner friendly. Succulent soil is faster draining than typical potting soil and is more forgiving if you forget to check the moisture level in the soil or the leaves of the plant before watering again. Using a terra cotta or other unglazed, porous clay pot will allow the soil to dry from all angles and achieve the desired drought levels quicker. Typical potting soils combined with plastic pots do not allow for quick drying and can also potentially lead to root rot, as the soil will be moist for too long. Which pot and soil combination will work best for you is determined by the conditions in your home or the area you are keeping it in. A hot, dry climate in an area with cactus medium and clay pots may require you to water every other day, where the same pot and soil in the average home will require you to wait for weeks before it is time to water again. This is why you should always check to be sure the plant needs water before watering.
Jade are fairly disease and pest free plant. Not often do they suffer from diseases or pests, but unfortunately, it is possible. No plant is 100% immune! Here are a few of the most common problems and how to deal with them.
Mealybugs are a white, sap-sucking insect that produces honeydew that can lead to sooty mildew. They often hide on the underside of leaves and in tight crevices of new growth. They are easily treated with pesticides, an alcohol mixture, or beneficial insects. For more information on how to identify and treat mealybugs, check out the blog post titled Mealybugs and How to Deal with Them.
Spider mites are a common pest in plants that like it a little more on the dry side when it comes to humidity. They are a sap-sucking insect that will leave little pinpoint yellow spots on the leaves and extremely fine webs between the leaves. They can be challenging to remove if not caught early. To learn more about early identification, signs, symptoms, and treatments, check out the blog post titled Spider Mites and How to Deal With Them.
This is a sure sign of it is time to water! If the leaves are extremely wrinkled, it has been too long between watering. Don't allow your plant to get visibly wrinkled every time, it is better to see if the leaves become pliable when you give them a light squeeze.
Jade plants are one of the more forgiving beginner plants. Lighting is the most important for their health. As always, if you are worried about your plant in any way, do not hesitate to reach out to me! Send a few photos, as well as a short description of how you've been taking care of it and I will be able to help. Send emails to cedarbridgebotanicals@gmail.com.
Happy Growing!
<3 Gina
]]>Always be sure to double check the native range of plants before you install them into your landscape, only to later find out that you are outside of their native range. This list will focus on the Pittsburgh area and the northeast, though many of these plants have an extensive range. If the specific species does not extend its range into your region, there is a high chance that there is a closely related species in the same genus that is!
The following list is in no particular order and all of the shrubs have their own pros and cons. Let's begin with a shrub that is a wonderful substitution for the highly invasive, noxious weed that is now illegal to sell in much of the country, the Bradford pear.
Zones: 3-8
Size: 15-25' tall and wide
Sun: 4-6+ hours
Wildlife: pollinators, bees, butterflies, birds, small mammals
The Allegheny service berry has a long list of common names, including juneberry, shadbush, saskatoon, sarvisberry, shadblow, shadwood, sugar plum, and more! The genus Amelanchier has about 20 species within it. This shrub is one that straddles the line between tree and shrub, with some sources classifying it one way, while others the opposite. This is a large, multi-stemmed shrub often found in wooded areas growing as part of the understory or in meadows. Serviceberries have four seasons of interest. Beautiful, white flowers bloom in spring, typically around April. These flowers are pollinated by various species of bees and exude a wonderful aroma during the life of the blossoms.
Come early summer, purple berries that resemble blueberries will ripen. These berries are attractive to birds and humans alike. They are edible and have been used as a food source for hundreds of years. These days, they are often made into jams and jellies to be enjoyed all year long. Though, remember if you choose to plant this shrub in your landscape that you are not the only one who likes to rely on these berries and to leave some for the birds! Once fall rolls around, the leaves will turn wonderful shades of orange and red that rival the beauty of some other native plants.
This wonderful shrub is a hose plant to several species of butterflies, including the beautiful red-spotted purple and viceroy butterflies. Viceroy butterflies are often mistaken for monarch butterflies and red-spotted purple butterflies have a wonderful display of blue on their wings so rarely found in nature! Many different pollinators will feed on the flowers in springtime including butterflies and bees. The fruits are attractive to all, small and large mammals alike, as well as a variety of birds, some of which include songbirds and ruffed grouse.
Zones: 5-9
Size: 5-12' tall, 4-8' wide
Sun: 4-6+ hours
Wildlife: pollinators, waterfowl, birds, hummingbirds butterflies, bees
This is a wonderful shrub for rain gardens or other wet areas of the landscape. While they tolerate moderate soils, these plants do best in moderate to wet soils along streambanks, rivers, and lakes, even tolerating standing water up to 3 feet deep. Planting this species in an area with occasional flooding will help to prevent erosion. The glossy, dark green leaves will turn anywhere from yellow to orange in the fall. Beginning in June, fragrant clusters of white, tubular flowers begin to bloom. The flowers are arranged in nearly perfect spheres with long pistils that give them an almost pin cushion appearance. Flower production is poor in shade or in dry soils. After the flowers have finished their display, they will produce showy, red seed pods that are enjoyed by a variety of wildlife. Seed heads usually persist through winter.
The flowers this shrub produces is the easiest area to see the impact this shrub has on wildlife. It is a very important source of food for many species of wetland-dwelling animals and pollinators. The flowers attract hummingbirds, bees, and butterflies, including the eastern tiger swallowtail. Other pollinators frequently visit these shrubs, as well. The titan and hydrangea sphinx moths are both frequently found visiting these shrubs. The seed heads are enjoyed by waterfowl, shorebirds, and songbirds. The entire shrub is considered to be moderately deer resistant.
Zones: 3-8
Size: 15-20' tall and wide
Sun: 4-6+ hours
Wildlife: pollinators, birds, mammals
This is a fall and winter blooming shrub with beautifully fragrant flowers! Often this plant will flower after the leaves have fallen off for the season, making them visible without the obstruction of leaves. The otherwise lush, green leaves turn a brilliant gold in fall, similar to that of the flowers. They can be found growing wild along woodland margins and stream banks with medium or slightly wet soils. This shrub is intolerant of drought, but tolerates clay soils incredibly well. They are a wonderful addition to any landscape with a wetter area looking for that elusive winter interest.
Fall blooming plants are invaluable to pollinators that are gearing up for winter, whether they make a big migration or hunker down to wait out the cold. These flowers are pollinated by noctuid moths primarily. The fruits are eaten by small mammals and birds, including turkeys. Deer may browse the foliage, but the shrub tolerates deer damage well.
Zones: 3-9
Size: 3-10 feet tall and wide
Sun: 2-6+ hours
Wildlife: birds, pollinators, specialized bees, butterflies, pollinators
This is a slow-growing, deciduous holly that puts on a wonderful display for winter. Living up to its common name, this shrub bears brilliant red berries in winter which hold up typically until the robins come back from their winter migration. Winterberry holly, like other holly are dioecious, meaning there are male and female plants. Male plants will never produce fruit and female plants will not produce fruit without a male plant nearby to pollinate them. This doesn't mean the male shrub needs to be right up against the females, but close enough for pollinators to travel from the male plant to the female. If your neighbor has the same species of winterberry, and they have a male, you could get away with not having a male shrub and still have your female shrubs produce fruit. Winterberries are tolerant of medium to poorly drained soils. You will find this plant growing wild in areas such as water edges like lakes and swamps and wetland margins. These plants also thrive in mesic soils that most of us have in our landscapes and is tolerant of salt and clay soils. The flowers are insignificant but a favorite among many pollinators. You may not notice your hollies are blooming until you see pollinators buzzing around! Flowers emerge in spring.
Winterberry are pollinated by several species of pollinators, including one species of specialized bee Colletes banksi. An amazing 48 species of birds feed on the berries including robins and cedar waxwings. Rabbits and deer will use the foliage as a food source, however this species can tolerate this damage well. Some small mammals will also eat the berries.
Zones: 6-12
Size: 3-6 feet tall and wide
Sun: 4-9+ hours
Wildlife: songbirds, mammals
It may be hard to believe, but this is a member of the mint family! Like others in the mint family, this shrub is tolerant of most soil conditions when provided adequate drainage. Once established, this plant is drought tolerant. In the wild, you may see these plants growing in areas such as meadows, thickets, and along the margins of bodies of water. The flowers are insignificant and bloom in spring and summer. They give way to clusters of beautiful purple berries come fall that occasionally hold into winter. The berries are showy and attractive to many forms of wildlife. The lush green leaves turn to an alluring yellow that compliments the purple berries remarkably well. These shrubs will often continue their berry display after the leaves have been shed for fall.
Many species of songbirds will enjoy the berries including eastern tahoe, and the purple finch. Foxes, armadillos, raccoons, opossums, squirrel and deer are among the many mammals that feed on the fruits. Deer will also nibble on the spring and summer leaves before the fruit arrives.
Zones: 3-7
Size: 6-9 feet tall 7-10 feet wide
Sun: 4-6+ hours
Wildlife: pollinators, specialized bees, birds, small mammals
Cornus sericea also goes by another name, the red twigged dogwood. This name is well earned! In winter, when the leaves have fallen off, the young branches will display a bundle of bright red young twigs. While pruning is not necessary to maintain the health of the plant, many choose to remove about one quarter of the plant in spring to maintain the young sprig color. Not only does this dogwood have lovely winter interest, the flowers in early summer are followed by showy white berries in fall. This shrub is often found in riparian areas, wetland margins, and overall wetter soils, though it can tolerate mesic soils well.
Dogwoods support several specialized bees. The flowers support those bees, as well as other pollinators, such as non-specialized bees and butterflies. The berries are a food source for birds and small mammals. The growth habit of the shrubs also provide nesting sites for those same birds and small mammals. Red twigged dogwoods are larval host plants for several butterflies, including the spring azure butterfly.
Zones: 4-9
Size: 1-3 feet tall, 4-10 feet wide
Sun: 6+ hours
Wildlife: pollinators, birds, caterpillars, green metialic bees
While we have some highly invasive rose species in the United States, like the multiflora rose, there are also some native roses! The native roses do not have the double petals many of the cultivated roses have, making it much easier for the pollinators to get to the nectar and the pollen. Pennsylvania has 5 native rose species, one of which is the pasture rose or Rosa carolina. This rose has lovely pink flowers that are infrequently white and grow to about 2.5 inches across. You will often find this rose growing in average to wet meadows, fields, and disturbed habitats. This species of rose is resistant to the rose rosette virus when planted in full sun. This is a wonderful option for a hedgerow. Pasture roses spread with suckers, which can make them a poor choice for smaller gardens
The growth habit of this plant provides wonderful cover for birds and other small animals year round. Many pollinators will visit these flowers including bumblebees, green metialic bees, hover flies, and beetles. Many species of hoverfly larvae act as beneficial bugs, eating the plant pests, like aphids. Moth caterpillars will feed on the foliage. Birds stop by to snack on the seeds. Leaves and stems are lightly browsed by white tailed deer and elk. The thorns help to keep damage minimal.
Zones: 3-8
Size: 10-15 feet tall, 10-20 feet wide
Sun: 2-4 hours
Wildlife: pollinators, mammals
This large shrub is often found growing wild as an understory plant in woodlands, making it well adapted to the shady areas of your landscape, especially under trees. Bladdernuts can also be found growing along streambanks and in floodplains. They often form thickets when in undisturbed habitats. Interesting flowers appear in early spring, followed by the interesting fruit that gives this plant its name in the fall. The bladdernut will have an inflated, papery seed capsules that mature in summer. These showy fruits often persist through winter, when they dry to a brown color. This shrub is tolerant of a wide range of soils and soil conditions.
The flowers often emerge before the leaves do in early spring. This is a crucial time for pollinators who are just beginning to wake from their winter slumber! You will often see different bees, hoverflies, butterflies, and other pollinators visiting this plant to get a sip of their nectar and a bite of their pollen. Small mammals also browse the foliage of this shrub.
Zones: 3-9
Size: 5-12 feet tall and wide
Sun: 4-6+ hours
Wildlife: pollinators, birds, mammals
Sambucus canadensis, the American black elderberry, can tolerate a wide range of soils but does best in moist, well drained humusy soils. White flowers appear in summer that have a slight citrus aroma. Shortly after, the dark berries will follow. Fruits of this species are sometimes used to make elderberry wine, jams, jellies, and more. If you are choosing to do this for yourself, as well, remember to leave some of the berries for the wildlife in order to support the native wildlife and allow the animals who stop to snack to spread the seeds and produce more shrubs! The leaves turn golden in the fall.
Countless pollinators will visit the summer blooms. The berries are enjoyed by a large variety of animals, such as birds, mammals, even turtles! The growth habit of this plant allows for various nesting sites for a variety of birds and small mammals. The foliage of this plant is toxic and rarely browsed.
Zones: 3-7
Size: 3-4 feet tall and wide
Sun: 4-6+ hours
Wildlife: Pollinators, butterfly host plant
You may be familiar with other spirea that are frequently used in landscaping. Various forms and species of Japanese spirea dominate the nursery aisles, which do not support our native pollinators. Spiraea alba and Spiraea tomentosa are both wonderful native alternatives to the Japanese spirea. You can find these plants growing naturally in meadows and fields, bogs, swamps, wet stream banks, and along bodies of water. This would be a wonderful addition to a rain garden! The flowers bloom in summertime. The leaves, while normally a rich green, turn a wonderful yellow, occasionally red in the fall.
This plant's flower can easily be found abuzz with pollinators of all sorts! This is a larval hose plant for the spring azure butterfly.
Landscapes often don't look quite finished without a few shrubs here and there. The ones found above will help your landscape to look finished and beautiful, yet also help to feed the wildlife. While it may seem like adding a few native plants to your landscape isn't doing much at all to help the ecosystem, if everyone in a neighborhood did so, there would be a significant amount of habitat restored. The more native plants you have in your landscape, the more you are helping the planet to recover and helping to restore the ecosystem. Together, we can make a change!
American bladdernut. The Morton Arboretum. (2021, December 2). https://mortonarb.org/plant-and-protect/trees-and-plants/american-bladdernut/
Buttonbush: The native, moisture-loving shrub. Penn State Extension. (n.d.). https://extension.psu.edu/buttonbush-the-native-moisture-loving-shrub
Callicarpa americana. Callicarpa americana (American Beautyberry, American Mulberry, Beautyberry, French Mulberry, Sour-bush) | North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. (n.d.). https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/callicarpa-americana/
Hamamelis virginiana. Hamamelis virginiana (Common Witchhazel, Common Witch Hazel, Southern Witch Hazel, Witch Hazel, Witch-Hazel) | North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. (n.d.). https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/hamamelis-virginiana/
Ilex verticillata - common winterberry. Native Plant Trust: Go Botany. (n.d.). https://gobotany.nativeplanttrust.org/species/ilex/verticillata/
Ilex verticillata. Ilex verticillata (Black Alder, Common Winterberry, Winterberry, Winterberry Holly) | North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. (n.d.). https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/ilex-verticillata/
Spiraea Alba. Spiraea alba (Meadowsweet, Narrowleaf Meadowsweet, White Meadowsweet) | North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. (n.d.). https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/spiraea-alba/
]]>Monstera is a surprisingly small genus with only around 59 species total. They are in the arum family, Araceae, making them aroids. This genus is native to the tropical regions of the Americas. Some of the most popular affordable and most sought after and expensive houseplants belong to this genus. Several plants in this genus go by the name swiss cheese plant due to the tendency for many plants within this genus to develop fenestrations, or holes in the mature leaves, giving them a unique, tropical feel. These perforate leaves form by certain cells dying in the earliest stage of leaf formation. There is not a clear reason for these holey leaves, but there are several possibilities. Some of those possibilities include allowing sunlight to reach lower leaves, minimizing the chance of the leaves becoming damaged in the wind, or maximizing the amount of rain that reaches the roots of the plants. While we may be unsure on the reasoning for the fenestrations in the leaves, one thing is for sure- we do know how to care for them! Most monstera will have the same care insructions with one notable deviant- Monstera obliqua. This rare plant comes with the price tag it does due to its difficulty to grow and specific lighting and humidity requirements. This care guide is targeted towards the rest of the members of the Monstera genus. Variegated or not, Monstera deliciosa, Monstera peru, Monstera addansonii, Monstera punctata, and more all fall under the same care requirements.
Monstera are vines that begin in the jungle understory, growing up the trunks of trees, trying to reach the bright light at the top of the canopy. Just like other plants that either begin or live their entire lives on the jungle floor, these plants thrive in bright, indirect light. Inside, this means a bright spot in the room, while outside, this means somewhere shaded, like under a tree or a covered porch. Windows filter a lot more light than many of us realize. Putting this plant in a south-facing window that gets sun nearly all day will not cause the dreaded sunburn that plants moving to the outdoors. Leaves with sunburn will have large swaths of brown on their leaves. The brown portions are necrotic and will not heal. If the plant is not getting enough light, the space between the leaves will elongate and the plant will lean towards the light. This process is called etiolation. This can be remedied simply by adding a grow light, however grow lights carry the same risks as the sun. They also can cause sunburn. As each light is different, be sure to follow the recommendations for the light you purchase. Most lights recommend mounting them at least 12-18 inches above the highest portion of your plant.
Watering monstera seems to be the most common downfall for these plants. It is easy to over water these plants. When many of us imagine the native range of these plants, the tropical areas, rain forests, beaches, islands, many picture water and a lot of it. Meanwhile, these plants need to dry significantly before the plants should be watered again in the house setting. Allow the soil to dry 50-75% before watering again. When you water potted plants, the soil should be completely saturated, not giving only small amounts of water at a time. To fully saturate the soil from the top looks like adding water until it runs out the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot. If bottom watering, be sure to continue to add water to the tray and allow the plant to soak until the top of the soil appears damp. Depending on the size of the pot, this could take anywhere from minutes to hours. Forgetting a pot in the water for a day or two will not harm the plant, but be sure this does not happen on a regular basis. This may sound like over watering, to saturate the soil entirely, but over watering is the frequency of water, not the quantity. Adding small amounts of water more frequently will make it so some portions of the soil never truly dry, usually in the center of the pot. Roots in those areas will not be able to perform the much needed gas exchange and will suffocate. By saturating the entirety of the soil and waiting until it is properly dry will eliminate this risk. If you forget to water your monstera for too long, they will also show you some warning signs before they begin to suffer. How the wilting looks will vary slightly from species to species, but each monstera will show visible signs of wilting when in need of water. Do not water on a schedule, such as every Monday, without checking the soil first to see if the plant needs water. Plants don't run on schedules, so it is best to listen to them for when they need water and always check the soil before watering.
You may also see suggestions of using ice cubes for water, but whatever you do, never water your tropical plants with ice! While you mostly see these instructions on orchids, occasionally they also accompany other tropical plants. These directions are designed to kill your plants. Not only does it not give enough water to the soil to saturate it, but tropical plants are not accustomed to the nearly freezing water that would be causing stress and eventually death to your plant.
Monstera are a very hardy group of plants that can tolerate a wide range of soils, as long as you are properly watering your plant. Everything from generic potting soil to the chunky aroid mix I have listed on my website will be suitable for these plants to thrive in! If you find yourself to be an over waterer, or even someone who just wants to baby their plants more often, it is best to use a chunky soil mix, rather than one that is similar to plain potting soil. Regular potting soil will take longer to dry and is less forgiving of improper watering, though it is better suited to those who live in dry or hot areas, as it will retain more water for longer.
Like many other popular houseplants, monstera tend to be disease and pest resistant. Though, to many growers' dismay, this does not mean they are impervious to these ailments. Knowing what to look for and being prepared for the worst is a wonderful way to make sure your plants are going to thrive in your care, even if they do come down with the sniffles.
Leaves can and do yellow in different ways for different reasons. The pattern of yellowing on one leaf, as well as which leaves on the plant are yellowing will tell you exactly what your plant is asking for. Most often, yellowing leaves are a sign of either a water or nutrient issue. If you fertilize regularly, following the directions on the fertilizer bottle, you can typically rule out nutrient deficiencies. If you need help figuring out why your plant's leaves are yellowing the way they are, and you can't quite understand what it is communicating, please feel free to send me an email with a photo included of the yellow leaves in question, the whole plant, and a basic summary of care. I will be able to help!
Mealybugs are a white, sap-sucking insect that produces the honeydew mentioned above. They often hide on the underside of leaves and in tight crevices of new growth. They are easily treated with pesticides, an alcohol mixture, or beneficial insects. For more information on how to identify and treat mealybugs, check out the blog post titled Mealybugs and How to Deal with Them.
Scale are another sap sucking insect that come with a shield. Also called hard bodied scale, these insects look like brown bumps on the plant's stems or leaves that can easily be confused for part of the plant. They are a little harder to get rid of, but it is still fairly easy to do. Carefully scrape the bugs off of the plant either with your fingernail or the flat side of a toothpick and remove them that way. Systemic pesticides, ones applied to the roots of the plant to make the entire plant toxic to pests, are another option for those in hard-to-reach places. There are several species of predatory insects, also called beneficial insects, that will target and eat scale. These predators will look for scale, even when you aren't, and often can either cure small infestations or get extreme infestations to a manageable size.
Curling leaves are a sign of the lack of water! Most monstera will have their leaves curl inwards on themselves when they are extremely thirsty and in need of water. You may also notice that the leaves are flopping downward more than normal. Give your plant a drink and the issue should resolve itself in about an hour!
Fenestrations are often one of the focal points that draw growers into the monstera genus. These majestic holes come with age. If your plant seems to only have solid leaves, wait until a few more new leaves come in and you will begin to see more and more holes with each leaf. Fenestrations come with maturity!
Monstera are wonderful beginner plants that are easily affordable and make wonderful additions to any collection! As always, if you have any plants that you are concerned about, please don’t hesitate to reach out! Send a photo or several as well as how you have been caring for it to cedarbridgebotanicals@gmail.com.
Happy Growing!
<3 Gina
]]>Many of you may know me from various reptile expos around the Pittsburgh area where I sell the plants and cleanup crew that you need to build your pet the best and most successful bioactive enclosure as possible! A bioactive enclosure is one that includes live plants, soil, and a cleanup crew, usually consisting of isopods and springtails. The cleanup crew will consume decaying plant matter, waste from your pet, and mold, as well as help to fertilize your plants naturally. The goal of a bioactive enclosure is to give your pet something that is as close to their natural habitat as possible. An added bonus of turning your enclosure bioactive is the maintenance level. They typically only need spot cleaned in the sense of cleaning the glass, cleaning up any droppings you see, and trimming plants as needed, as well as any other maintenance your pet would typically need. Trimming plants and aerating soil should be done on an as-needed basis. With the goal of properly recreating your pet's natural habitat, you have to learn about your pet's origin!
Leopard geckos can be found naturally in Nepal, India, Pakistan, Iran, and Afghanistan in dry grasslands and rocky deserts. These ground-dwelling lizards lack the sticky toes that other geckos use to climb, meaning they do better in a long enclosure than an upright enclosure. They get their name from their primarily yellow bodies covered in irregular brown spots, like a leopard. These geckos overall have very easy care with an overall mild temperament and are great for beginner reptile keepers. Now that we know where they come from, let's go over some plants that will be beneficial to put in their enclosures!
Before we begin to discuss plants that will do well in a leopard gecko enclosure, I want to go over one that is often put in the same section as succulents, but will not do well. These are air plants, or Tillandsia. Air plants, while some have adapted to the more arid regions of the world, are still tropical plants. They are not desert plants and will not survive well in a leopard gecko enclosure. They require humidity that is too high for the gecko to tolerate. For more information on air plant care, visit the care sheet titled "Air Plants- Tillandsia."
It is also important to note that not every plant found in the succulent section will be safe for your gecko. Cacti and other plants with thorns pose a risk to your pet's safety and well-being. They can cut and puncture the animal's skin, despite its scales. There are also some plants that are not safe if broken open or eaten. The most common succulent to watch out for is actually a whole genus of succulents, Euphorbia. Anything in the Euphorbia genus has latex sap that is toxic to pets. Some species within this genus have spines that would automatically rule them out, such as African milk trees or dragon bones, but other species do not. Pencil cacti and firesticks are likely to be the two most common thornless species of Euphorbia that you may come across.
In the list of plants for gargoyle and crested geckos, I mentioned "Always Good" plants. They were spider plants and pothos. While it is possible to get both of those plants to survive in an enclosure suited for arid species, it isn't easy and the plants will not be pretty. While those two plants are definitely a tried and true plant for most any enclosure, they require too much moisture and would not do very well in this type of enclosure.
Groundcover plants are those that will cover the ground and not grow too tall. These plants are often vines and will help to provide lots of hiding areas for the clean up crew, in addition to any leaf litter you may add. They also help to hide the substrate, if that is something you would prefer.
"Strings of Things" is often used as a catch-all for plants often distantly related to one another. String of pearls (Senecio rowleyanus), string of hears (Ceropegia woodii), string of bananas (Senecio radicans), and string of dolphins (Senecio peregrinus) are all "strings of things" that will do very well in an arid enclosure. These plants need to dry completely before watering, just as it would occur in the desert. These plants don't climb and will cover the ground nicely. If portions of them break off, they will re root where they are, filling in a new space that your gecko dragged it to.
String of turtles, while also a "String of Things" often found near the succulent section, would not survive the conditions needed for the animals to thrive, as it is a tropical vine from Brazil.
Hoya often scratch that itch many arid reptile owners have of wanting large leaves and a tropical feel. Hoya is a genus of plants containing over 500 species, though only a few are available in cultivation. They come in many colors, shapes, and sizes, though they are all vines that will help to cover the ground. The leaves are larger than those of the Strings of Things. So large, in face, that they could have space for your gecko to hide amongst, as well. Hoya grow slower than pothos and will take a decent amount of time in order to take over the enclosure and will not need frequent trimmings to be kept in line.
Sempervivum is a genus within the Jade family, Crassulaceae, containing about 40 species, often called house leeks or hens and chicks. They spread via offsets, sometimes accompanied by lateral growing stems, similar to the runners you see on strawberries. They will eventually fill the container they are in, forming a thick mat. They are easily controlled by trimming stems as they form, or simply by removing some plants if they become too much.
In this case, understory plants are those that will grow to be taller than the groundcover plants, yet shorter than those in the next section. Some may need to be trimmed in order to stay the medium height, but it is easy to keep these plants in this medium range.
"Jade plants" refers to any plants in the Crassula genus. Some are more common than others, such as Gollum fingers jade, sometimes called Ogre's Ears (pictured above) or Crassula ovata (right). Both of these plants are actually the same genus, the Gollum fingers variety is a mutated form of the original leaf shape. These plants can easily grow to the size of a small shrub outside in conditions they thrive in, or even in a pot, if given the proper conditions. However, these plants are often chosen to bonsai for beginners, making them great choices for medium sized plants in the vivarium. They can also be used as a tall canopy plant, if you would prefer. Other species of jade, such as watch chains (Crassula muscosa), rattlesnake tail (Crassula barklyi), and string of buttons (Crassula perforata), as well as many other species, will stay shorter and fit within this understory size. All species of jade are safe to plant in with your leopard gecko. With over 200 species and a good amount of them available in cultivation, you can surely have the pick of the litter!
Haworthia is another genus of succulents, this one containing about 150 species, all of which endemic to the countries of South Africa, Mozambique, Lesotho, Eswatini, and Namibia. These plants are often confused with aloe, which are in the same family. Haworthia fasciata is possibly the most common and most widely available species within this genus. This plant can grow up to 3 to 5 inches tall. It is also called the zebra plant, not to be confused with Aphelandra squarrosa, the zebra plant mentioned in the list for crested and gargoyle geckos. There is no relation between the two zebra plants and they cannot survive in the same conditions as one another. Haworthia cooperi is a species that will grow slow and adds an interesting component to your enclosure with its translucent leaves. While this species can grow up to ten inches tall, it is not often or by any means quickly that this happens. If you would like the translucent leaves of Haworthia cooperi but the size of Haworthia fasciata, then look no further than Haworthia cymbiformis, the cathedral window succulent. This species of Haworthia will grow to the smaller side of the zebra plant, about 3 inches tall. Another excellent choice of Haworthia would be Haworthia bayeri. This species sits closer to the ground than other species of Haworthia, which have a mostly upright habit across the genus. Instead of the leaves growing upwards, as shown in the photos, these leaves lay close to the ground and have a flat surface on the top portion of the leaves. They are a deep, gorgeous green and are not as translucent or light green as some of the other species with a similar growth habit.
Echeveria is yet another large genus in the Jade family. These plants are likely the ones that come to mind when you hear the word "succulent." They come in a range of sizes, colors, and leaf shapes, though they all grow in a rosette fashion. A good number of these species will eventually grow tall with naked stems near the bottom as they naturally lose their older leaves. It takes a good amount of time for most species to get to this point, but if you would rather keep these plants close to the ground, you can "restart" them by cutting the stem close to the surface of the substrate, leaving the stump and planting the top after allowing the stem to callous over for at least a few days. The stump will grow new heads of leaves and the top will eventually root back into the substrate, creating a new plant once again. The colors of these succulents range anywhere from pastel blues and pinks to deep reds, luscious greens and everything in between.
The canopy layer is the tallest layer in the forest, which is also why it is the tallest layer here. These plants are all intended to give vertical interest in the tank. It is not as crucial for leopard geckos as it is for other species, as they spend most of their time on the ground, only doing short climbs here and there. That being said, these still make the tank look nice and finished!
These come in two main forms, the Mexican ponytail palms that almost resemble an onion and the "traditional" ponytail palms with the thick, trunk-like caudex. These are not true palms and are accustomed to the dry, arid conditions that leopard geckos thrive in. The leaves drape down, and as the tree grows, it will give your gecko an area that is more enclosed, acting almost as a hide. These plants are native to the semi-arid areas of Central America. They've evolved to survive the dry conditions by storing water in their caudex.
There are several species of snake plants, which come in all sorts of shapes and sizes. Some grow tall, while others stay short, perfect for the enclosure size. Snake plants are not fast growers and will take a while to outgrow an enclosure, if purchased small. Some species and varieties will never be tall enough to outgrow a properly sized enclosure. These are sturdy plants that an active gecko can climb across without causing harm to the plants. They tolerate low light and are often one of the first plants we think of when one is looking for a low light or drought tolerant plant. While these plants can tolerate low light, they do best in bright, indirect light or under a grow light. There are grow lights that emit UVB, which are also safe for reptile use. For more information about snake plant care, take a peek at the post titled "Snake Plant Care."
Aloe is yet another genus on this list, this one containing over 650 species. With so many species, there is a lot of variety on height, color, and shape! The typical aloe that comes to mind is Aloe vera, sometimes called true aloe. This is the species known for its medicinal benefits that treats burns. Aloe vera would give lovely height to your enclosure, while other aloes, such as the Aloe 'White Fox' would be better suited for the Understory category, staying a similar size to many Haworthia. Some species of aloe have sharp spines on the sides of their leaves, so it is important to double check before purchasing. If it feels sharp to you, it will feel sharp to your gecko.
Elephant bush, or Portulacaria afra, is often mistaken for a jade plant, Crassula ovata. This plant grows more upright. This is another succulent that you may see as a bonsai. Native to Southern Africa, this plant can grow up to 15 feet tall in the wild, however it stays much smaller when grown as a houseplant. With a moderate growth rate, this plant is possibly the one that would require the most maintenance of the plants on this list, however, it would not need maintenance often. This is a unique addition to the enclosure, which can have a more shrub like appearance than other plants on this list.
When building a bioactive tank, it can be challenging to choose which plants will have the same water requirements and which will stay small enough or can be trimmed to stay small enough to fit in an enclosure. Another thing to note when building bioactive enclosures is to allow the plants to rest before adding the animal. This will give the plants a bit to become established, giving you the best possible chance for success. It is best to leave the bioactive enclosure to acclimate for a month. This can be achieved by having a temporary or quarantine tank ready to go for your pet to live in during this time.
Choosing one or two plants from each category will create a lovely bioactive tank for your gecko to thrive in! If you choose to forego the ground cover options, or even while the ground cover is filling in, consider adding leaf litter to give your cleanup crew a chance to hide. Including plants to your enclosure does not mean you should forego the other, nonliving areas for your gecko to explore. Consider adding at least one humid hide to assist with shedding, rocks, and perhaps some smaller branches laid horizontally to give your gecko areas to safely climb. Leopard geckos may not be arboreal or live in trees, but some do like to climb short distances for exercise. When building your bioactive enclosure, remember to leave space for the necessities, such as food and water bowls, hides, etc. It's easy to get carried away!
As always, if you have any questions on how to assemble your bioactive enclosure or what you should include, please send me an email at cedarbridgebotanicals@gmail.com.
Happy Growing!
<3 Gina
]]>These lists are focused around the Pittsburgh area, so if you are reading from somewhere aside from southwestern PA, please double check all of the plants' native ranges on this list before adding it to your yard or garden. Sometimes, native ranges end abruptly, other times, they expand across entire continents. It is always best to double check! Some species may have subspecies that do better on a certain half of the continent, such as the Texas redbud (Cercis canadensis var. texensis) being a subspecies of the redbuds seen all over the eastern US into Canada (Cercis canadensis). Not every species have subspecies, but some do. These are populations that often have a specific adaptation that increase their ability to thrive in a certain geographical area, such as heat or moisture levels, for example.
The following list is in no particular order, and all of the following trees have their own pros and cons! Let's begin with one of my personal favorite trees and one of the largest trees in eastern North America.
Zones: 4-9
Size: 75-100' tall and wide
Sun: 6+ hours
Wildlife: specialized moths, songbirds, various insects, mammals, birds, owls
This tree carries many common names, such as the American sycamore, buttonwood, American planetree, and western plane. The specific epithet occidentalis translates to "western," referring to the western hemisphere. This beautiful tree can grow anywhere from 75 to 100 feet tall with equal spread and a trunk diameter up to 10 feet. This tree does best when given ample room to grow, as it develops quickly. One of the most outstanding features of this tree is the exfoliating bark, revealing a smooth, white inner bark. Typically these trees will shed their brown outer bark in irregular pieces towards the top of the tree, making an interesting stark contrast to its neighbors when the leaves drop in fall and a lovely accent to the landscape until the leaves begin to flush out again in spring, providing winter interest in a way not many trees are capable of. This tree can live to be 200 years old and can be tapped for its sap, that can then be turned into syrup.
Such a large tree carries abundant space for wildlife to make their homes! Eastern tiger swallowtail butterflies lay their eggs on the leaves, allowing their caterpillars to have an all you can eat buffet! The sycamore tussuck moth is specialized to this species of tree. One tree can host hundreds of insects at once without any significant damage to the tree. Aside from butterflies, moths, leaf hoppers, wood boring insects and more, these trees can act like a wildlife hotel throughout its lifespan. Not only do the branches provide nesting sites for all sorts of birds, the trunk of the tree often forms cavities as it ages. These cavities are used as hotel rooms for a variety of birds and mammals, including squirrels, owls, bats, wood ducks and more. Occasionally, a cavity at the base of the tree grows large enough to accommodate black bears. The tree acts as a food source for songbirds who dine on their seeds and deer who nibble the low hanging branches during winter when food is scarce. Such a large tree can host all of these animals, no problem!
Zones: 3-8
Size: 40-75 feet tall, 35-40 feet wide
Sun: 4-6+ hours
Wildlife: various moths and butterflies, birds
You may be familiar with the species Betula nigra, the black birch or river birch, with its peeling, papery thin bark. This is a closely related relative, the cherry birch. While it doesn't have the iconic bark of the river bitch, the Betula lenta is still a beautiful tree and a valuable plant to the ecosystem. This species was previously used for birch beer and wintergreen oil, but now is mostly used as an ornamental shade tree. This tree naturally grows in cool forests and rocky outcrops. This tree shares the common name black birch with Betula nigra because of the bark of young trees. The bark of young Betula lenta is very dark, nearly black and smooth. As the tree ages, the bark will become furrowed. The bark makes a brilliant contrast with the beautiful golden fall foliage.
This tree hosts a variety of butterflies in the caterpillar stage. Mourning cloak, dreamy duskywing, and eastern swallowtail butterfly caterpillars are often seen munching on these leaves. Megachile rubi, a solitary leaf cutter bee will also cut crescent shaped holes in the leaves to take back and use as building material for the nests of the next generation of these native bees! Songbirds will build nests in the branches. Songbirds and gamebirds will eat the seeds.
Zones: 3-9
Size: 12-20 feet tall and wide
Sun: 4-6+ hours
Wildlife: pollinators, bees, songbirds, small mammals
Fringe trees are a stunning small tree, that is resistant to black walnut. Naturally, it's found growing in rich forests and streambanks. The common name, fringe tree, comes from the fragrant, white, spring blooms that attract pollinators, like bees. When in full bloom, it almost looks as if it is snowing, just around the tree. The flowers are fragrant, with male flowers being showier than female flowers, though both being beautiful. This tree is a member of the olive family and that becomes clear when the female trees begin to ripen their fruits. The fruit this tree produces olive like fruits that turn a dark blue-black color when ripe. These fruits will only appear on female trees when a male tree is close by to pollinate. The leaves turn a crisp golden color in fall.
The flesh of the fruit is enjoyed by a variety of sonbirds, such as the cardinal, northern mockinbird, eastern bluebirds, turkey, and more. Deer will also browse the fruits. The stone of the fruit, or the seeds, are often enjoyed by small rodents such as rabbits and squirrels. Birds nest in the branches of mature trees. Various caterpillars will munch on the leaves, such as Fringetree swallow, a few species of sphinx moths, and fall webworms.
Zones: 5-9
Size: 15-20 feet tall and wide
Sun: 4-6+ hours
Wildlife: pollinators, songbirds, mammals, Zebra Swallowtail butterfly
Pawpaw trees are an incredible fruit tree- they produce one of the largest fruits native to north america! They also host some unique pollinators. These flowers aer a deep purple color, meant to mimic the appearance of carrion to attract their pollinators- flies and beetles. The flowers contain both male and female parts, but they cannot pollinate flowers from the same tree. In order to have a tree produce fruit, there needs to be genetically different pollen reaching the flower. The fruit these small trees produce are delightful! They're edible and taste like a tropical fruit, though they have large seeds. You will find these trees growing naturally in areas such as woodlands, along streams or in ravines. The large leaves turn a beautiful, radiant gold in fall.
As mentioned before, their pollinators consist of flies and beetles. Their fruit is enjoyed by a myriad of animals, aside from humans. Songbirds, turkeys, raccoons, opossums, black bears and foxes all enjoy the creamy fruits. This tree is also a host plant for the larval stage of the zebra swallowtail butterfly.
Zones: 4-8
Size: 15-25 feet tall, 10-20 feet wide
Sun: 4-6+ hours
Wildlife: pollinators, hummingbirds, squirrels
A buckeye isn't just a delicious peanut butter cookie! You will find these trees growing naturally in moist areas, such as woodlands, ravines, and streambanks. Also called horse chestnuts, this member of the maple family puts on its show in springtime, when approximately 7-10 inch long panicles of tubular, bright red flowers make their appearance all over this small tree. These trees naturally grow in the understory. Because of this, they do best in partial shade. While they require moist soils and are not overly drought-tolerant, the soil still should be well draining. Soggy soils are not compatible with this tree, but they make wonderful additions to the rain garden.
The impressive spring blooms draw in pollinators like butterflies, bees, and ruby throated hummingbirds. The tree branches and large leaves provide a safe place for birds to nest. Squirrels and other browsers will occasionally eat the nuts.
Zones: 3-7
Size: 15-25 feet tall, 12-20 feet wide
Sun: 4-6 hours
Wildlife: bees, moths, browsing animals
This maple tree has many names. Goosefoot maple, snakebark maple, striped maple, and whistlewood are among the common names used to address this tree. The leaves don't appear to be the same as many other maple leaves, as they lack the iconic maple leaf shape. This is where the name goosefoot maple comes in, as the leaves resemble that of a goose's footprint. This tree does best in partial shade and tolerates deep shade well. It is an understory plant, preferring average, slightly acidic soils. They are often found growing on cooler, north facing slopes. The leaves turn a brilliant yellow in the fall. These trees can easily live to be 100 when given the correct conditions to survive. The foliage turns a clear yellow in fall.
It's easy to forget that maples flower. Many species of maples, including the striped maple, have insignificant flowers. That doesn't mean, however, that they are of no use to the wildlife! They are an important early source of nectar for bees. Plants in the Acer genus support the larval stage of imperial moths, a beautiful yellow and brown moth. However, this tree supports mostly browsing wildlife, or animals that nibble on the lower branches.
Zones: 3-8
Size: 50-80 feet tall, 20-40 feet wide
Sun: 4-6+ hours
Wildlife: Imperial moth larvae, birds, small mammals, black bears
Identifying a white pine is easy, "white" has five letters, and eastern white pines have 5 needles to a fasicle. Fasicles are the bundles that pine needles grow from. This is the only species of pine that naturally grows east of the Rocky Mountains. Most specimens will live to be an average of 200 to 250 years old, while some will live to be over 400 years old. This magnificent tree is the state tree of both Michigan and Maine. As a young tree, it is a familiar pyramidal shape, however, as it grows, it becomes more ovate with an irregular crown. This tree does best when planted in well drained soils and does not tolerate heavily compacted soils and air pollutants, like sulfur dioxide and ozone. This tree prefers moist yet well drained, loamy soils and full sun in cooler climates. They can also be found on dry, sandy or rocky ridges. This evergreen tree is an easy way to ensure your landscape has winter interest. We aren't the only ones who enjoy an evergreen plant!
Birds and small mammals will use the tree as cover. Nests can be found in the branches where they are easily hidden by predators by the evergreen needles. The imperial moth will lay its eggs on the needles of this tree, which will be eaten by the caterpillars. Where it serves as a key point of value to the wildlife is in the seeds. The seeds are a favorite of black bears, birds, squirrels, and rabbits. The bark is also enjoyed by beavers, rabbits and porcupines.
Zones: 4-9
Size: 50-70 feet tall, 30-40 feet wide
Sun: 6+ hours
Wildlife: small mammals, waterfowl, other birds, amphibians, catfish
This is an unusual conifer! It gets the "bald" portion of its name by the fact that this is, in fact, a deciduous conifer. Bald cypress can be found growing wild in wetlands such as swamps, bayous, and rivers. Don't let the amount of water these plants love scare you- many of them grow well in drier soils many of us are accustomed to, yet suit the wettest areas of the yard without batting an eye... or fluttering a leaf. These are slow growing and long lived trees that typically live to 600 years or longer. This tree is excellent at helping to absorb floodwaters and to prevent erosion. Cypress needles will turn orange to gold in fall, before dropping. Cypress is also create cypress knees, or pneumatophores. These are specialized root structures that emerge upward through the ground. It is most likely due to the poor oxygen content of swampy and wet soils, so these structures help to improve gas exchange in the roots of the tree. These knees can do some serious damage to lawn mower blades, so it is best to plant these trees in areas with plenty of planted areas, like a garden or flower bed, to avoid the need to mow or walk in the area.
Because of the unique areas in which this tree grows naturally, it can support some unusual wildlife for a tree. Cypress domes, areas of forested wetland comprising mostly of cypress trees, provide habitat for a variety of animals such as catfish, salamanders, frogs and toads. Wading birds, like herons, eat the seeds. Squirrels, turkey, ducks, warblers, and other waterfowl also dine on the seeds this tree produces. Occasionally, older trees will form hollows that house a variety of wildlife, either as cover or as a den for the season. Birds will nest in the branches of the trees.
Zones: 5-9
Size: 15-30 feet tall and wide
Sun: 4-6+ hours
Wildlife: Specialized bees, butterflies, songbirds, gamebirds, mammals
It can be hard to tell the Florida dogwood apart from the non-native kousa dogwood. The easiest way to determine which species you have is to look at the fruits. Native Florida dogwoods will have small, red berry-like fruits. Kousa dogwoods will have larger, round fruits about an inch across in diameter. The native Florida dogwood is an understory tree, staying small at about 20' tall. This tree's native range is extensive, growing naturally from Canada to Mexico along the eastern half of North America. Like other dogwoods, this tree blooms in spring with small, green flowers, surrounded by the petal-like bracts, or modified leaves. It truly is a sight to see when the tree matures! The leaves of this tree will turn a lovely deep red in fall, accompanied by its bright red berry-like fruits. The showy fruit will begin to show in August and will continue to feed wildlife through winter.
This tree is a host plant for the spring azure butterfly, a beautiful blue butterfly you may have seen fluttering around. Three species of bee have co-evolved with this plant and specialize in pollinating this tree in particular. The fruit are enjoyed by a wide variety of animals, songbirds and game birds being the main connoisseurs. Other animals you may see snacking on the fruits include foxes, deer, squirrels, chipmunks, and black bear. Who knew such a small tree can support so many animals?
Zones: 4-8
Size: 20-30 feet tall, 25-35 feet wide
Sun: 4-6+ hours
Wildlife: Bees, butterflies, songbirds, small mammals
Eastern redbuds are easily spotted in spring with their proliferous purple to pink blooms that line their branches and occasionally, their trunks. Their heart shaped leaves give a lovely display in fall when they turn anywhere from golden yellow to deep red. This tree is a member of the legume family, Fabaceae. It is easy to see the family resemblance when comparing the flower shape of a pea with the flower shape of a redbud flower. The flowers and young pods are edible either cooked or raw, but if you choose to indulge in the wonderful food your tree produces, be sure to leave plenty for the pollinators and other wildlife who rely on it. Unlike other species in this family, the redbud tree does not fix nitrogen in the soil, but that doesn't mean it isn't worth adding to your landscape! As a small tree, it is perfect for many locations. It is found naturally in quite a few areas, such as the forest understory, abandoned fields, roadsides, rocky bluffs, and along stream banks. This plant is a seriously tough cookie, also tolerating damage caused by deer, clay soils, even juglone toxicity. Juglone is the chemical that is produced by all parts of the black walnut tree, another wonderful native tree. This chemical is what makes it hard for many species of plants to survive under their canopies.
Possibly due to the amount of niches in the ecosystem and how widespread this plant is, redbuds host many species of native wildlife. This tree supports bees and butterflies with the spring flowers, but also with its foliage. If you see C shaped holes taken out of the sides of the leaves, that is a sure sign of leafcutter bees! Redbud trees are a favorite source of leaves for these bees, which they use to create their nests. They have a much more mild temperament than honeybees and sting far less frequently. Their sting is also more mild. Aside from supporting bees in more than one way, they also host at least 12 species of moths and butterflies. Caterpillars will munch on the leaves during spring, where leafcutter bees will begin building their homes in late summer and fall, so no worries about your tree looking like Swiss cheese! Songbirds, including bobwhite quail, and small mammals browse the seeds. While deer will nibble at the lower branches, they do not cause serious damage to the tree. The branches also give areas for small birds to nest.
Trees are some of the most important parts of the ecosystem. They help to control temperatures by cooling the area beneath them, provide lots of vertical habitat for the wildlife, and some provide a seemingly endless food supply to wildlife. There really isn't anything quite like a forest bustling with life, but they are falling in both numbers and area with how many are being diminished with human expansion. While planting a few trees in a landscape does not a forest make, it is absolutely better than invasive, nonnative, or no trees in the landscape.
American Fringetree (Chionanthus virginicus). Illinois Wildflowers. (n.d.-a). https://www.illinoiswildflowers.info/trees/plants/fringetree.html
American Sycamore (platanus occidentalis). Illinois Wildflowers. (n.d.-b). https://www.illinoiswildflowers.info/trees/plants/am_sycamore.htm
Bald Cypress. National Wildlife Federation. (n.d.). https://www.nwf.org/Educational-Resources/Wildlife-Guide/Plants-and-Fungi/Bald-Cypress
Betula lenta - Cherry Birch. Native Plant Trust: Go Botany. (n.d.). https://gobotany.nativeplanttrust.org/species/betula/lenta/
Cercis canadensis. Cercis canadensis (American Judas Tree, American Redbud, Eastern Redbud, Redbud) | North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. (n.d.). https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/cercis-canadensis/
Cornus florida. Cornus florida (Flowering Dogwood) | North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. (n.d.). https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/cornus-florida/
Immel, D. L. (n.d.). Eastern Redbud. Retrieved June 15, 2023,.
McNiel, R. E., & Carpenter, P. L. (1974). Nitrogen fixation by Woody plant species as measured by the acetylene reduction assay1. HortScience, 9(4), 381–382. https://doi.org/10.21273/hortsci.9.4.381
Pinus strobus / Eastern White Pine. American Conifer Society. (n.d.). https://conifersociety.org/conifers/pinus-strobus/
Platanus occidentalis. Missouri Botanical Garden. (n.d.). https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?kempercode=a891
Striped Maple. Acer pensylvanicum L. (n.d.). https://www.srs.fs.usda.gov/pubs/misc/ag_654/volume_2/acer/pensylvanicum.htm
Williamson, A., & Williamson, J. (2014, February 21). Buckeyes and Horsechestnuts. Home & Garden Information Center | Clemson University, South Carolina. https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/buckeyes-horsechestnuts/
]]>Pinguicula is another genus of carnivorous plants in the Lentibulariaceae family. There are only two other genera contained within this family, the bladderworts Utricularia and Genlisea, the corkscrew plant. Pinguicula, or Butterworts (not to be confused with their cousins the bladderworts) capture insects with short, glandular hairs that secrete sticky mucilage to capture their prey. Sundew have a similar process to capture prey, but the hairs and drops of mucilage are notably smaller on butterworts. Pinguicula are known for their beautiful, orchid like flowers that will last for weeks on end. They grow in rosettes, never growing too tall. Their flowers bloom high above the rest of the plant to ensure that they do not accidentally trap and eat their pollinators before getting to the next flower. Naturally, you can find these little greasy ones on cliff or rock faces, on mossy trees, or on the ground near streambanks. They are certainly a versatile plant! Unlike other carnivorous plants, butterworts are easily grown inside and can control any gnats, fruit flies, or mosquitoes that you happen to have indoors. Like other carnivorous plants, butterworts have evolved to absorb nutrients through their leaves, rather than their roots. Carnivorous plants share this trait due to the soil conditions in their natural habitat. The soils in which they grow have dramatically less minerals and nutrients available to the plants. Because of this adaptation, the roots have become extremely sensitive. The root sensitivity impacts what types of water and soil are safe to use on your butterworts.
The only safe water to use on your butterworts include distilled, rain, reverse osmosis, or dehumidifier water. Putting water through a ZeroWater filter with an up to date filter is also safe. Pinguicula do tolerate more salts and minerals than other carnivorous plants, but it is still not safe to use tap or well water with
them, as the impurities in the water will build up in the soil. As for how frequently to water your pings, that can vary. Temperate species of pinguicula will go dormant, when they are in this stage in their life cycle, they will not need nearly as much water. The leaves will become smaller and stop secreting that sticky mucilage that traps and digests their prey. In the image at the top of this page, you can see great examples of both active growth and hibernacula, the form the plants take when they are dormant. When these temperate species are dormant, allow them to dry between watering. Once the soil has dried to the preferred level, fully saturate the soil. When in active growth, you may find success in two different watering strategies. Option 1 is continuing the same water pattern, allow them to dry, then water thoroughly. Option 2 is a similar watering strategy as other carnivorous plants you may be fond of. Place the butterwort in a tray of water, and keep at least 1/2 to 1 inch of distilled water in the tray. Growers have had success with both strategies, so be sure to listen to your plant. If it is showing signs of distress with one watering method, try the other.
Soil is another important aspect that is influenced by the sensitivity of the roots. They require fast draining soil with little to no nutrients. Regular potting soil has fertilizers infused into the soils and will burn the roots and kill your plant. The Carnivorous Plant Soil available on my shop listed here is designed to suit a variety of carnivorous plants and is what the butterworts are grown in here. The biggest and most essential part of repotting pings is to remember generic potting soil is not carnivore safe. There are ways to grow butterworts without the use of soil. Many growers prefer to mount them to rocks that they then keep moist to allow the plant to continue its uptake of water. This is achieved by placing the ping on the rock and temporarily securing it until the roots take hold. Roughly textured rocks, such as lava rocks are the best to use. While mounting straight to the rock is possible, many growers opt to drill holes in the rock and plant the pings in the hole with sphagnum moss. This method has much more success, as it is easier to keep the plants watered with the absorbent moss. If mounting straight to the rock, the most success is with those that have at least one large divot to rest your plant in.
Like many other carnivorous plants, butterworts prefer full to partly sunny conditions. They tolerate less sun than Venus flytraps, Sarracenia, and most species of sundew, but still require bright light. They do well in a bright windowsill or in strong indirect light all day long. When grown in full sun or under a stronger grow light, the leaves will blush either pink or red. These plants also often do well under fluorescent lighting, making them a better choice of carnivorous plant than most others for the office! If your plant is used to a dimmer area, moving them to a bright, full sun location immediately carries the risk of sunburn. To lower this risk, slowly adjust your plant to the full sun conditions by leaving it outside for a few hours, then bringing it indoors. Increase the amount of hours per day your plant is outside until it can tolerate full sun.
Dormancy in these plants is characterized by a tight rosette of small, succulent leaves. If you use the tray method of watering, dormancy is the time to switch watering methods. If you continue to keep pings wet while they are dormant, they will rot. Continue to allow the soil to dry before switching to the tray method again until the pings begin to grow the larger, carnivorous leaves. Watering should not be ceased completely. Simply allow the soil to dry before watering again. Do not stop watering until the plants begin to go dormant themselves. Follow the plant's lead when it comes to dormancy!
Fertilizing these plants is not an easy thing to do and should not be done by beginner growers. Diluted liquid fertilizer applied to the leaves is safe, but again, is not easy. Pings grown outside will attract their own food and will not need fertilizer. If you see fruit flies or gnats stuck to the leaves of this plant, do not remove them. Allowing them to stay on the leaves will ensure the plant continues to digest the insects and does not pose a risk to the plant. If you decide to feed your plant, be sure the insect is still somewhat alive to trigger digestion. Small insects are best, things like fruit flies and gnats. Wingless fruit flies are available for purchase at reptile expos and pet stores, though feeding your plant is not necessary, so long as it receives occasional food. Even putting it outside for a night will likely land it a mosquito meal.
Pinguicula follow the same guidelines for carnivore safe pots as the rest of the carnivorous plants do. Plastic, glass, and fully glazed ceramic with drainage holes will make a great home for your new plant. As mentioned above, lava rock can also provide an interesting display for your plants. Ceramic that is not glazed on both the inside and outside as well as terra cotta or metal pots will leech nutrients into the soil slowly and will eventually kill your plant. The roots are not extensive on pings and they will not need repotted frequently, however the time will likely come that it needs a new pot. Repotting is easiest when the plants are in their dormant state.
While it is not common that these plants will have pests or disease, it unfortunately can happen. It can be stressful for both the plant and its grower when something seems to be going wrong. Here are the most common ways your ping may need some help.
Yes, carnivorous plants can still be eaten by insects! Aphids are some of the most common pests you will see all across the carnivorous plant families and species. Aphids are a sap-sucking insect that produce honeydew, a sticky, sugary excrement that can lead to sooty mold, a fungal pest that will impact the ability of the plant to photosynthesize and the overall health of the plant. Aphids are usually found on the new growth, but due to the small size of most species of butterworts, they can be found all over the plant. Physical removal is an option, as well as a strong blast of carnivore safe water. Using beneficial insects to treat the aphid infestation on carnivorous plants runs the risk of all of your beneficial insects being eaten by your plants! Instead, if the previously mentioned physical removal methods do not work, a light application of pyrethrin insecticides will help to kill the aphids. Be sure to get as little on the roots or in the water as possible. Consider flushing the soil a few days after the application to decrease the risk to the plant.
Gastropods, slugs and snails, are too large to be caught by the pinguicula, however they are not above munching on your plants. Consider growing them where snails and slugs cannot reach them, such as on a table or elsewhere the intruders will dry out before they reach your plants. If this is not possible, beer traps are effective at luring snails and slugs away from your plants. Small trays of old beer left out overnight will have several gastropods sitting in the beer, unable to make their way home from the free bar and possibly having drowned. Be sure to dispose of the slugs and snails far away or in the trash to avoid the risk of some of them not having drowned yet.
If the leaves appear to have holes in them shortly after touching the soil, you may have a case of some fungal microbes in your soil. The best way to treat this issue is with prevention. Using clean, fresh soil and not fertilizing, especially fertilizing the soil will be the best way to prevent this from occurring. Microbes thrive on a nitrogen rich environment, which your plant will not.
While pings can survive for a time in somewhat boggy conditions during their growing season, they cannot be watered like this constantly. Too much water impairs the ability for roots to perform the gas exchange needed, meaning they will suffocate. This is another reason why it is important to recognize dormancy in your plants and adjust watering accordingly.
Pinguicula are a wonderful plant to have in the home, especially when they begin to bloom. While they may not be the easiest carnivorous plant out there when others are definitely less maintenance, they are still relatively easy when compared to other houseplants you may be a little more familiar with. The orchid like blooms will last for weeks and come in lots of different colors, the leaves come in a variety of shapes and sizes. A collection of pings is really something to behold... and gnats will never be a problem again!
As always, if you have any questions at all, please don't be afraid to reach out to me at cedarbridgebotanicals@gmail.com. If the question pertains to the health and wellness of a specific plant in your care, be sure to send lots of photos and a brief description of how you have been caring for the plant.
Happy Growing!
<3 Gina
]]>Many of you may know me from various reptile expos, where I sell plants and clean up crews to help you build your own bioactive enclosure for your pets! A bioactive enclosure is one that has plants, soil, and a microfauna clean up crew usually consisting of isopods and springtails. The cleanup crew will help to eat any decaying plant matter, mold, and droppings left by your pet, as well as helping to fertilize your plants. Essentially, you are creating your very own mini ecosystem! The purpose is to replicate your pet's natural habitat as closely as possible. An added bonus to creating a bioactive enclosure is that they are very low maintenance. They will mostly just need spot cleaned, in the sense of removing any droppings you see and cleaning the glass, as well as any other maintenance your pet needs, such as misting. Trimming plants and aerating the soil should be done on an as needed basis. To properly replicate your pet's natural habitat, you must first learn about your pet's origin!
Crested geckos (often shortened to "cresties") and gargoyle geckos (sometimes shortened to "gargs") come from the same habitat in the southern portion of New Caledonia, an island midway between Australia and Fiji. Both cresties and gargs have a similar care due to their shared habitat and behaviors. Both species are arboreal, nocturnal geckos that occupy a very similar niche with diet and activity. Both species of geckos make a wonderful pets for first time keepers, as they do not need additional heating or lighting, due to their nocturnal nature and natural habitat. Where they live also makes them great contenders for bioactive enclosures, as the plants they like and do well with their environmental are all great terrarium and house plants! Here are some suggestions to get you started in your plans for a bioactive enclosure for a crested or gargoyle gecko.
All of the following plants are frequently on my table. If you would like to request that I will have a specific plant for a specific reptile expo, please send me an email at least 2 weeks prior to the show, and I will do my best to ensure that the plants requested will be available at the expo.
There are a few plants that are what I like to call "always good" plants. They can tolerate a range of watering and humidity requirements, as well as the damage that can be caused by your pet going about its day to day life. This list is short, but these plants will not steer you wrong, especially in a tropical enclosure.
Pothos are an extremely common houseplant that you can often find in bioactive enclosures. They're very adaptable, being able to occupy the base of your enclosure, creating a ground cover that still leaves space for your gecko to hide. They can also climb, especially if you mist the wood the pothos is trying to attach to during the nightly misting these geckos need. Misting the wood behind the pothos vine will encourage roots to form and latch on. This plant is easy to cut back, just pick a point on the stem and cut! These plants come in a variety of colors and patterns, some of which grow faster or slower than others.
Spider plants may be related to asparagus, but it certainly acts more like a grass. It tolerates a mow very similarly to grass does, so if the plant begins to outgrow the enclosure, a simple cut back will help to mitigate that. They come in solid green, variegated, and curly! Spider plants will eventually send out the iconic pups. If these pups are allowed to touch the soil surface, they will root elsewhere in the enclosure. If you do not want it to spread, simply cut the bloom stalks as they form.
Groundcover plants refer to those that will coat the surface of the soil. They often give nice places for your isopods to hide, prolonging their life span if your gecko likes to pick off snacks. They also help to hide the soil, if you prefer to have a different look to your enclosure.
Turtle vine looks like it belongs to the Tradescantia genus, however its Latin binomial is Callisia repens. The turtle vine behaves very similarly to the inch plants and spiderworts, but it has a slightly different appearance. The leaves are small and teardrop shaped. They are a light tan color above, occasionally with small spots. Below the leaf, they are purple, just like that of Tradescantia zebrina. It is also an easy plant to grow and cut back, if need be. Just like the pothos, simply choose a spot and snip!
String of Turtles is a very popular houseplant. It is called such because its circular leaves look like the shells of turtles! This plant goes by the latin name Peperomia prostrata. You will often find them displayed in the succulent section, however they are not succulents. They are tropical plants native to Brazil, making them the perfect plant for the tropical enclosure needed for your gecko. All peperomia are pet safe, which adds to the appeal, should your gecko decide they want salad for dinner. As a slow to moderate grower in most circumstances, this plant does not need much maintenance in an enclosure.
String of Frogs, Ficus quercifolia, comes with a warning. This plant will look fantastic and do extremely well in a gecko's enclosure, however they do produce the latex sap common in this genus. Should you need to trim this plant, remove your animal and do not place them back into the enclosure until the plant has had sufficient time to "bleed" and callous over. This milky sap is a defense mechanism and can cause harm to reptiles and amphibians. If you have a particularly heavy or destructive gecko, stay away from this plant.
Tradescantia, spiderworts or inch plants, come in various sizes and colors. They all do swimmingly as houseplants and enclosure plants alike. They grow very quickly which can be both a blessing and a curse. Consider the size of your enclosure and the frequency at which you are willing to trim plants in order to decide if you should add this plant to your enclosure. They are a favorite among chameleon keepers, as they grow fast enough to tolerate the damage their pets can do. If your gecko is particularly destructive, this may be a good choice for you.
Selaginella is the only living genus in the family of spike mosses, Selaginellaceae. They are an ancient plant and do very well as groundcover for the more horizontal species. Some species grow more upright, which will stay small, just a few inches tall. It is a great plant for any area that stays a little too wet, like by the water bowl, or in enclosures with high humidity.
What I am calling "understory" plants are the the plants that will act as a midway point between the tallest and shortest plants in this list. They will fill the space between nicely and give your geckos areas to climb and hide. Ironically, most of the plants on this list are considered understory plants when taken out of this context and placed in the wild.
Prayer plants are those within the Maranta and Calathea genera. There are care sheets written for both of these plant published already, should you consider a prayer plant as a houseplant instead! These plants are named such, as the leaves fold up at night, as if they are folding their hands in prayer, but lay flat to absorb sunlight during the day. This gives your gecko more space to play while they are awake, they provide a safe space to hide, so your gecko feels comfortable enough to sleep. They range in size and have a moderate to slow growth rate, meaning trimming will not be frequently necessary. When trimming this plant, be sure to trim the stem, not the petiole, or the portion of the plant that connects the leaf to the stem.
Air plants are an easy way to have greenery at any point on the background or in the sticks and climbs that should be provided for your gecko. Air plants will not survive being planted or laid on the substrate. The easiest way to mount your air plants is to use fishing line. Just be sure to trim any excess line and there are not gaps between the line and the decor you are tying it to, to ensure there is no risk to your pet getting tangled in the invisible line. This will allow you to remove the air plant if you need to give it additional water via a soak (see the blog post titled Air Plants- Tillandsia for more information on care). Air plants would love to be misted nightly with your gecko and, depending on your humidity retention in the enclosure and species of air plant, they may never need removed from the enclosure for additional water. They come in all sorts of shapes and sizes, there is an air plant for every enclosure!
Ferns are a plant that enjoy high humidity and a moist substrate. Ferns provide a lot of leaves and greenery for your gecko to use as a hide. Birdsnest ferns have thick leaves that will be able to hold small geckos, maiden hair ferns have light and airy leaves that geckos can make their way between and feel safe and protected in. There are so many ferns in between you can choose from! Each species of fern can be used in slightly different ways, but they will all provide a place for your gecko to feel safe within.
Peperomia is a genus that contains over 1,000 species, each with their own unique size, color, and growth pattern. Some peperomia stay short, even acting as groundcover, such as the aforementioned String of Turtles. Others have strong, sturdy leaves that can hold your pet and provide a surface for them to climb on. Others yet would behave more like a small shrub, like Peperomia Rosso, which will provide a space for your animal to hide within. It can be hard to tell what is a peperomia and what isn't, due to their extreme diversity, but they are all pet safe, and all great additions to a gargoyle or crested gecko enclosure.
Bromeliads also come in a large variety, some of which can easily outgrow a standard enclosure. Others stay perfectly sized, only growing about 8 inches or smaller. These plants would also be an option for mounting, similar to air plants. Bromeliads have roots that should be wrapped in moss and watered when dry. The cups that the leaves form should be filled with water, which will provide an additional area for your gecko to drink from. An important thing to note when choosing which bromeliad to include in your enclosure are the leaf margins, or the edges of the leaves. Sometimes, bromeliads have a serrated margin that has the potential to cut your gecko's skin. You want to ensure that whatever species of bromeliad you choose, the edges of the leaves are smooth when you run your finger across it in both directions. Sometimes the serrations can only be felt when moving in one direction. For more information on bromeliads, see the blog post titled "Bromeliad Care."
The plants I am classifying as "Canopy plants" are the tallest on the list. They will give your gecko spots to climb, hide, and fulfill their arboreal nature. Some of these plants have large leaves that can hold the biggest of geckos, others have trunks that they can climb.
This is a plant with interesting leaves, sometimes called the African Mask Plant, typically grows 1-2 feet tall. The thick, glossy leaves can hold reptiles heavier than you may expect. This plant does have the ability to go dormant, dying fully back to the soil level, if the substrate is kept too dry. This plant will stay in an active growth, so long as the substrate isn't allowed to stay extremely dry for a long period of time. Keeping the substrate at a proper moisture level for your reptile will help to prevent this. The large, strong leaves will provide both a climbing surface, as well as a nice place to hide for your gecko. For more information on how to properly care for this plant, visit the blog post titled "Alocasia Polly Care."
Zebra plants are a unique plant that have iconic white striping on their leaves, as well as yellow flowers that will remain for an extended period of time. They have thick stems and strong leaves that will hold even the largest of geckos. They are easy to trim and stay smaller, about 1' tall and wide. If they outgrow the space, trimming the plant is as easy as cutting the thick stem with a pair of clean pruners. The plant may be a bit bare while it recovers from the pruning, so consider having additional climbs and hides on standby while the plant takes the time to grow back. This plant will bring a little bit of color to the enclosure.
Dracaena is a wide and varied genus in the asparagus family, now containing plants that used to be in the Sanseveria genus. I would like to note before continuing that snake plants, those that used to be classified as Sanseveria are not included in those that would do well in a gecko enclosure. They need substrate that is too dry. Tropical dracaena, sometimes called dragon trees or corn plants, don't always have leaves that can support a gecko, some of which can support a smaller gecko. There are some species that stay smaller and could be classified as an understory plant, while others grow tall. The trunks can support a gecko, no problem, but the leaves are going to provide more of a hiding spot than anything. Hides are important to make your gecko feel safe.
Schefflera, also called umbrella plants, are in a similar boat to Dracaena. The leaves are not often strong enough to hold adult geckos, but provide even more coverage to ensure your pet feels safe. They will need trimming to keep the plant to size. Simply choose a spot on the branch and cut with a clean pair of pruners. While the plant takes time to recover from the pruning, it may be beneficial to have additional hides or even a fake plant to give your gecko a place to hide. You can avoid the need to add hides by limiting the amount in which you cut your plant back.
Money tree stumps are money trees that were allowed to grow to a significantly larger size, then cut back to achieve a certain appearance. These money tree "stumps" are still very alive, growing new leaves similar to that of the umbrella plant out of the top of the stump, near the cut. This results in a nice, living piece of log for your gecko to climb! If the leaves are knocked off, no worries, they will regrow. These plants are very resilient and low light tolerant, making them fantastic for a gecko's enclosure and an excellent climb. The leaves at the top of the stump will provide a nice, concealed space for your gecko to feel safe.
Choosing one or two plants from each category will help to ensure you create a wonderful bioactive tank for your gecko. If you choose to forego the groundcover, consider adding leaf litter to the soil to give space for your cleanup crew to hide. Having these plants does not mean you do not need to provide other, nonliving areas for your gecko to explore. Adding cork bark or other types of wood and branches will give your gecko a reliable place to climb, as they would in the wild. When you are building your bioactive enclosure, remember to leave space for any necessities, such as food and water bowls, whether these be in a ledge feeder or on the ground. It's easy to get carried away!
Like the gecko photos included in this article? They call came from Steel City Scales, a local crested gecko breeder! Occasionally, we share a table at some local reptile expos, such as Pittsburgh Mega Reptile Expo, Rock n' Reptile Expo, and Steel City Reptile Expo.
As always, if you have any questions on how to assemble your bioactive enclosure or what you should include, please send me an email at cedarbridgebotanicals@gmail.com. For more information on gecko care, shoot an email to steelcityscales@gmail.com or visit www.steelcityscales.com.
]]>The term "bromeliad" is applicable to anything within the family Bromeliaceae, which includes 80 genera and approximately, 3,700 species including air plants, like Spanish moss, and the delicious fruit, pineapples! Though, typically when one uses "bromeliad" to refer to a plant, they are talking about one of a few different genera, all with a similar growth pattern. These plants arise from a rosette and have showy bracts in the middle of the plant that last much longer than the blooms. Typically, these bracts will be present for weeks to months. This family is native to the tropical regions of the Americas with one exception. Pitciarnia feliciana is a species native to West Africa. Air plants in the genus Tillandsia are a great beginner plant and already have their own care sheet published. The bromeliads we will be addressing today reside in the guzmania, neoregelia, and vriesea genera. These are pet friendly, slow growing plants that are fantastic beginner plants. Without further delay, let's get into the care!
Like most tropical houseplants, these plants require bright, indirect light. Inside, this is a bright area near a window. Outside, this means shade or dappled sun. Some species can tolerate low light, though it is important to keep an eye out for signs of etiolation, or reaching for the light. The top of the plant may lean to the nearest light source, or the leaves may get long and thin. These are signs your plant isn't receiving enough light. Adding a grow light or moving the plant closer to a window can both help with this issue. If using a grow light, be sure not to mount it too close to the plant itself. This has the same risks as putting the plant in too much sun outside. These plants can get sunburn, which will eventually turn brown and necrotic. These areas of the leaves will not heal and will remain for the life of the leaf.
Watering bromeliads can throw some people off. The base of the leaves form cups at the center of the plant. These are meant to hold water. It is best to use rain, distilled, or filtered water when filling these areas to avoid hard water build up on the leaves, as this has the possibility to cause damage. Regularly flushing the leaves is also a good way to prevent buildup. The soil, on the other hand, should be allowed to dry, as these plants are susceptible to root rot. Allow the top two inches of soil to dry at least before watering again. When you water, be sure to saturate the entirety of the soil to prevent overwatering. Overwatering is the practice of watering too frequently, not the quantity of water added to the pot in one sitting. Do not allow these plants to soak in water or stay dry for extended periods of time. In warmer weather it is important to not allow the center cups to dry completely. This will happen quicker on warm, dry, or windy days, if the plant is kept outside. Indoors, during winter, the cups should be washed out occasionally to ensure the water does not become stagnant.
Soil is an important part of bromeliad care. Be sure the soil is well draining but still holds moisture. As mentioned above, these plants are prone to root rot, so it is important to ensure the soil drains quick enough to lower the chances of your plant suffering from such a condition. Quick-draining soils are also a great way to combat overwatering, as they dry quicker than dense, slow-draining soils. Adding orchid bark or perlite is a great way to improve the soil. A nice, chunky mix is what you are going for.
Bromeliads are not heavy feeders, despite their longer than average bloom time. There are a few options to choose from as far as fertilizing your bromeliad goes. An orchid fertilizer would be perfect without altering the strength or frequency of fertilizing. They have very similar fertilizer needs. If using a liquid fertilizer or dissolving crystal fertilizer, dilute to half strength before using. If a slow release fertilizer is your preferred method of fertilizing, only drop one or two pellets into the cups and water centrally. The pellets will only need refreshed each growing season, so once per year.
Bromeliads, like many other popular houseplants, are fairly pest and disease resistant. Unfortunately, this does not mean they will never have a disease or a pest. As always, if your plant has a pest, isolate it immediately to prevent the spread to other plants nearby. The following are the most common problems you will find with your bromeliads.
Believe it or not, some leaf browning is natural. Old leaves will eventually die, but it will only be a few at the base of the plant. This is true of all plants! With that being said, sometimes other leaves will brown, as well. Most commonly, if a bromeliad's leaves are turning brown and crispy, there are two main causes. Either the humidity is too low, or the plant needs to be watered more frequently.
The large flower petals, which are truly modified leaves called bracts, will last for weeks on end before they begin to fade. All good things must come to an end, which is also true of the bromeliad's display. The mother plant will send out pups before they begin to die, which will happen soon after the flower dies. This is a natural part of the life cycle and cannot be stopped. The pups will grow up to have the same breathtaking display once they mature, so be sure to take care of the pups well!
Scale are a fairly common houseplant pest that looks like small brown bumps along the stems and leaves. They are masters of disguise, often looking more like a part of the plant than an insect. They can be a little tough to treat because of their hard, protective shield. You may see recommendations of utilizing rubbing alcohol to kill these insects, however that process only works on soft-bodied scale, such as mealybugs. Foliar sprays also aren't always effective treatment methods because of their shield. Using a systemic pesticide paired with physical removal of the insects is a fantastic way to eradicate the population. Of course, if you do not want to use pesticides, beneficial insects are also an option! Consider obtaining Aphytis melinus or Lindorus lophanthae or both to help control your infestation. If there are only a few insects, removal with your fingernail or toothpick may be sufficient.
Mealybugs are a white, sap-sucking insect that produces honeydew that can lead to sooty mildew. They often hide on the underside of leaves and in tight crevices of new growth. They are easily treated with pesticides, an alcohol mixture, or beneficial insects. For more information on how to identify and treat mealybugs, check out the blog post titled Mealybugs and How to Deal with Them.
Bromeliads truly are one of the easiest pet safe plants to take care of that put on a show for months on end! They are a unique addition to any room, bringing a tropical feel wherever they go. As always, if you have any questions about your plants or are worried about them in any way, send me a photo as well as how you have been taking care of it to cedarbridgebotanicals@gmail.com and I will be able to help.
Happy Growing!
<3 Gina
]]>I've broken the top ten lists into perennials, trees, and shrubs for the sake of simplicity. This list will break down perennials, which are herbaceous plants that will come back year after year, yet die back completely in winter. For more detailed information about why you should include native plants in your landscape, please read the article titled "Why Native Plants?"
I will be focusing on plants native to the Pittsburgh area, though many of these plants will have an extensive range. Some may be naturally spread all across the country and into our neighbors, Canada and Mexico. This is important to note, and it is always important to double check the native range of a plant before choosing it for your landscape.
Zones: 3-9
Sun: full to part
Wildlife: hummingbirds, butterflies, bees
There are six species of Turtlehead, all of which are native to North America, but each have their own native range and tolerances. Their flowers, which look like the head of a turtle, can range in color from white to red. Turtlehead blooms in fall, a dire time for pollinators as they prepare for winter. Flowers can be hard to come by during this time of year, so not only will your garden still pop, but it will also give your native bees the sugary boost they need. Hummingbirds and butterflies will also frequent these flowers.
These plants naturally grow along stream banks and in floodplains or in wet woodlands, though they can tolerate average soils. Organic mulch will help to keep their roots more moist and benefit the plant's health. If you are putting together a rain garden and are in the native range of any of these species, Turtlehead would be a fantastic addition! There is a beautiful butterfly that uses this plant and only this plant as a food source for its caterpillars. This would be the Baltimore checkerspot butterfly, a mostly black butterfly with bright orange spots. There are, of course, other butterflies and moths that will use this plant as a food source in various stages of their life, as well.
Deer do not show interest in these plants and will typically leave them alone. These plants work well to create a border or in a mass planting.
Zones: 3-8
Sun: part sun to full shade
Wildlife: Bees, pollinators, small mammals
Trout lilies are a highly undervalued plant. Stunning bold yellow flowers contrast nicely with their mottled leaves. They're native to the woodlands of North America from the east into the Midwest where their mottled leaves help to camouflage them against browsing deer. As a spring ephemeral, their beauty is fleeting. They complete their active growth cycle before the trees leaf out, making them a very important part of the pollinator's diet when they are just waking up from their winter slumber. Native bees and specialty bees will frequent these flowers.
Their impact is greatest when several are grouped together in a mass planting. They also will spread via stolons, so a few plants will become many. Their seeds have an elaiosome, a fleshy attachment filled with lipids and proteins, that lure in ants. These ants will bring the seeds back to their colony where they will consume the elaiosome and the seed will eventually germinate. The process of using ants to spread seeds is called myrmecochory.
This plant will tolerate wetter soils.
Zones: 3-8
Sun: part to deep shade
Wildlife: caterpillars, small mammals, songbirds
People tend to forget about grasses and sedges when they are thinking about native plants. Both provide cover and food to lots of native wildlife! Birds will also use Carex pennsylvanica as nesting material. This species of sedge goes by the names Pennsylvania sedge, Penn sedge, and oak sedge due to it being found growing near oaks frequently. Penn sedge is a very tough plant that will tolerate conditions others won't. Deep shade (2 hours or less of light without direct sun) isn't a factor that most plants can handle. It can be added into a rain garden, though it does prefer dry shade. If being grown in sunnier conditions, wetter soils will benefit this plant.
This plant is found growing naturally in grasslands, forests, and woodlands on the eastern half of North America, west into Oklahoma. Penn sedge is an excellent lawn substitute where typical, nonnative turf grasses struggle and will not need mowing or irrigation, except when first installed.
Zones: 4-8
Sun: Full to part
Wildlife: pollinators, mammals
Wild hyacinths aren't the same as the usual hyacinths you find in most landscapes. The ones that are likely planted in the landscape are in the genus Hyacinthus rather than the genus Camassia, as the wild hyacinth is. The common name comes from the similarities in appearance. Also going by the name Atlantic camas, the fragrant spring flowers will draw in pollinators galore. The bulbs are edible and were a common food source for indigenous peoples that inhabit the area in which it grows, however it is hard to distinguish from the Death camas, Zigadenus venenosus.
Camassia scilloides naturally grows in quite a few habitats, some of which include prairies, rocky slopes, woodland edges, and more. This plant is endangered in some portions of its native range. We can easily combat this by adding it to our landscape in the spring bulb mix many of us have. Instead of using non native Hyacinthus we can replace them with the native, fragrant, and useful Camassia. Even adding a few bulbs to your flower beds will spruce them up, as well as help restore some habitat that has been lost.
Zones: 3-11
Sun: Full to part sun
Wildlife: Specialized bees, butterflies, pollinators, small mammals, bees
Also going by the names cranesbill, alum root and spotted geranium, this plant is native to much of North America. This is one of the showiest of the native geraniums. The spring flowers will draw in native bees, butterflies and specialized bees and other pollinators while songbirds will eat the seeds. While deer will occasionally munch on the leaves and flowers, but the plants can tolerate this. They need to eat, too! Several caterpillars and moths will also feed on the leaves.
Wild geranium grow naturally in mesic forests, sometimes near streams or ponds where they can get the sunlight they need. they will form clumps while staying close to the ground. While the plant does best in mesic (moderate moisture) soils, they are tolerant of drought once established.
Zones: 3-8
Sun: Full sun to shade
Wildlife: Butterflies, songbirds, moths, hummingbirds, pollinators
Another plant with a large native range, this species of Columbine is native from Canada to Florida and west to Texas. There are other species of Aquilegia that come in other colors, some native to North America, some not. If you want to add it to your garden intending to add the native species, please double check before your purchase. Aquilegia canadensis is also called red columbine. The interesting flowers appear in spring and will provide a food source for hummingbirds, bees, butterflies, and other pollinators. Columbine is a buffet to wildlife! Columbine duskywing butterflies will lay their eggs and their caterpillars will feast on the leaves.
Because columbine can tolerate a wide variety of conditions, they can be found in a large variety of ecosystems. That means they're an easier one to add to the landscape, as well!
Zones: 3-9
Sun: full to part
Wildlife: pollinators, songbirds, small mammals
There are many species of black eyed Susan, all with small differences between them and all native to North America. This species is native to almost the entire United States and Canada. Many of us have seen black eyed Susans, and some may have them in our landscapes already. Butterflies and other pollinators are fond of this plant for the nectar the flowers provide from summer through fall, as well as laying their eggs for their caterpillars munching on their leaves. If you leave the seed heads up after the flower has finished blooming, songbirds will eat the seeds all winter long.
Zones: 3-9
Sun: Full to part sun
Wildlife: pollinators, birds, small mammals
When thinking about what plants to add to support pollinators, grasses don't often come to mind. Both big and little bluestem hold very important roles in the ecosystems. Big bluestem is a tall grass, growing 4-6 feet tall, but remaining narrow in comparison, typically staying 2-3 feet wide. As a bunching grass, it provides vital cover to birds and small mammals. Sod forming grasses do not allow the small paths that form between bunchgrasses. Without these paths, quail, woodcocks, and other small animals, do not have the cover they need in order to evade predators. After this grass goes to seed, different skipper butterflies will feed on their rotting fruit while songbirds feed on the fresh seeds. Native bees and birds will use the foliage for their nests.
This plant is a beautiful plant when used in the landscape. Not all grasses have a fall color, but this one sure does! The blades will turn a beautiful orange or red. As a drought tolerant plant, this grass is best for the drier regions of your landscape.
Zones: 3-8
Sun: Full to part sun
Wildlife: pollinators, including the endangered Karner blue butterfly
Lupines are a legume, which fix nitrogen back into the soil. Nitrogen is an essential nutrient needed for plant growth! This species of lupine blooms brilliantly with towers of blue-purple, pea like flowers. A drought-tolerant species, this plant requires dry soils and will do well in quick-draining soils. The fan shaped foliage adds to the interest this plant provides in the garden! When ripe, the seed pods burst open, throwing their seeds far away from the mother plant.
Several species of butterflies use this as a larval host plant, or a plant caterpillars feed on. One such species, the Karner blue butterfly, only uses this plant as a food source for their caterpillars. Because of this, without this beautiful plant, we will no longer have a beautiful butterfly to go along with it.
Zone: 3-9
Sun: Full to part sun
Wildlife: pollinators, hummingbirds, specialized bees
A unique flower to add to your garden, spotted bee balm is a favorite among hummingbirds and bees. This member of the mint family is drought tolerant once established, layers of cream colored bracts decorate the space between the flower clusters, giving the plant its name. Also called dotted horsemint, the blooms are prolific enough to bring some indoors. They make great cut flowers and add a bit of pizzazz to any bouquet! Just remember to leave some flowers for the pollinators!
The previously mentioned Karner blue butterfly has been known to feed on the flowers as adults, as well as several species of bumblebees. The aroma given off by the foliage deters deer and rabbits, which rarely consume this plant.
I hope this list has given you some ideas on the best plants for your landscape! Remember that each plant has adapted to certain conditions, be them wet soils, full sun, shade, or rocky soils. Consider your environment before choosing which plant to add to your landscape to have the best chances of success. And don't forget to have fun and experiment! On behalf of all of the local wildlife, thank you for helping to combat habitat loss! If you have any questions, please don't be afraid to reach out.
Happy growing!
<3 Gina
Works Cited
Andropogon gerardii. Andropogon gerardii (Big Bluestem, Bluestem, Broomsedge, Turkey Foot) | North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. (n.d.). Retrieved December 29, 2022, from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/andropogon-gerardii/
Aquilegia canadensis - red columbine. Native Plant Trust: Go Botany. (n.d.). Retrieved December 29, 2022, from https://gobotany.nativeplanttrust.org/species/aquilegia/canadensis/
Geranium maculatum. Geranium maculatum - plant finder. (n.d.). Retrieved December 29, 2022, from https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/PlantFinder/PlantFinderDetails.aspx?kempercode=c850
Rudbeckia Hirta. Rudbeckia hirta (Black Eyed Susan, Black-eyed Susan, Gloriosa Daisy) | North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox. (n.d.). Retrieved December 29, 2022, from https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/rudbeckia-hirta/
Wild hyacinth (Camassia scilloides). Wild Hyacinth (Camassia scilloides) - Wisconsin DNR. (n.d.). Retrieved December 29, 2022, from https://dnr.wi.gov/topic/EndangeredResources/Plants.asp?mode=detail&SpecCode=PMLIL0E050
]]>Calathea is another genus within the prayer plant family, Marantaceae. They’re commonly called prayer plants, just like the genus Maranta that was covered in a previous post, but they also go by their genus name, Calathea. The genus Calathea contains about 60 species. There were previously about 200 species that were formerly assigned to this genus, but were reclassified to the genus Geoppertia. Like their relatives in the Maranta genus, calathea have colorful ornamental leaves and are pet safe. They often have purple on the underside of their leaves which can help to distinguish them from their relatives with the same name. They also share similar care, though they can be a bit more challenging than maranta because they do not thrive on neglect and require that you mimic their tropical environment. With this care sheet, they will be able to thrive in your care if the conditions are met!
In the wild, these are plants that are native to the understory of tropical rainforests. This means they experience dappled light or shade. Be sure to keep the plant in indirect light. Direct light for extended periods of time will cause the leaves to burn. Sunburn will not heal and will last for the life of the leaf. Bright indirect light will cause the plant to thrive and grow more quickly than if in medium to low light conditions, though this genus can tolerate all three levels of indirect light. If you notice your plant’s leaves are all facing the same direction, this is an indication that the plant does not have enough light. Either increasing the light with a grow light or rotating your plant will improve its appearance and growth. If adding a grow light, be sure to read the directions that come with it. They carry the same risks of burns as the sun, but each light is different and has different recommendations. Typically the light should be mounted 12-24 inches above the tallest point of the plant. Using the light on a lower setting may help prevent burns.
Calathea should be kept in consistently moist soils, but not soggy. Waterlogged soil will still cause root rot. Water when the soil just begins to dry on the top inch and do not allow the soil to dry completely. If the leaves begin to curl in on themselves, the soil is too dry. When you water, be sure to saturate the soil completely. This may sound like creating waterlogged soil, but overwatering is not the quantity of water added, but the frequency. No matter if you are watering from the top or the bottom, the soil should be saturated completely. This means if from watering from the top, adding water until the excess drains from the holes in the bottom of the pot. If watering from the bottom, be sure the tray used to hold the water has enough to saturate the entire pot of soil. This may mean that you need to add water halfway through the soaking process. Allow the plant to soak until the soil surface is moist. This could take minutes or hours, depending on the size of the pot. Always check the soil before you water. This is the most common reason that root rot occurs. Plants do not function on a schedule like watering every Sunday, for example. If the soil is allowed to dry to the plant’s preferred level, in this case only allowing the top inch to begin drying, the plants will succeed.
The soils that calathea grow in in the wild have a high organic content. The “dirt” portion of potting soil. Because of this, potting soil you get off the shelf at your local garden centers will work perfectly without amendments. Fertilizing your plants regularly will help to promote beautiful growth. How often is appropriate to fertilize depends on what type of fertilizer you use. Slow-release fertilizers, liquid fertilizers, and soluble fertilizers all have different suggested application methods and frequencies. It is best to follow the directions on the label. Sometimes, calathea may bloom. There is a rumor out there that blooms mean your plant is in decline. This is the opposite of true! Flowers are a sign that your plant is getting enough light and nutrients. The plant will funnel its energy into the flowers, so if you would prefer, you can trim them off to redirect the energy back into the foliage of the plant.
Calathea don’t often suffer from diseases, most of the common problems they face are environmental or pest related. Here are a few of the most common problems and how to fix them.
Browning along the edges of the leaves are a common sign among humidity loving plants that the air is just too dry. This may be a simple solution of moving the plant to a room with higher humidity like the kitchen or bathroom. A humidifier may be needed in order to fully resolve the issue. Brown portions of the leaves are dead and will not heal, but will not cause additional harm to the plant to be left on. If you prefer to remove the brown portions, leave a sliver of brown on the leaf to avoid causing unnecessary wounds that will still scab over brown.
Large brown sections of the leaves that are not concentrated on any specific portion of the leaf are a sign of a fungal infection. Treating with a fungicide is the best move if you find this to be the case. Again, these portions will not heal and will remain for the life of the leaf. While removing the affected leaf or leaves may not resolve the infection, it is still good practice to do so to assist to slow the spread of infection. Allowing water to sit on the foliage and too little ventilation are often the main causes of fungal infections of this nature.
Mealybugs are a white, sap-sucking insect that produces the honeydew mentioned above. They often hide on the underside of leaves and in tight crevices of new growth. They are easily treated with pesticides, an alcohol mixture, or beneficial insects. For more information on how to identify and treat mealybugs, check out the blog post titled Mealybugs and How to Deal with Them.
Spider mites are tiny, spin webs, and feed on the sap of many houseplants. Often, you will find their webs or see the damage they cause before you see the spider mites themselves. Washing the leaves and increasing humidity will help to decrease and eliminate the population. Insecticidal soap and systemic pesticides may also be needed if the infestation is severe. For more information about treatment and identification, please reference the article titled Spider Mites and How to Deal with Them.
Scale are another type of sap sucking insect, similar to mealybugs. They come with the same risks of the spread of disease and sooty mildew, but, unfortunately, cannot be resolved exactly the same way. The hard armor this type of scale comes with which make them appear as brown bumps on the stems and leaves of the plant protect them from simple solutions such as rubbing alcohol. It is best to physically remove the insects from the plant and crush them, in combination with either pesticides or beneficial insects. Be sure to follow the label on the pesticide bottle, as they are not to be applied in any other way. Not following the directions can affect either the safety or the effectiveness of the product. Aphytis melinus and Lindorus lophanthae are two of the most used beneficial insects used to control scale.
While calathea may not be the easiest houseplant out there, once the conditions are met, this is an incredibly rewarding houseplant to care for and is easy once the conditions are met! As always, if you have any plants that you are concerned about, please don’t hesitate to reach out! Send a photo or several as well as how you have been caring for it to cedarbridgebotanicals@gmail.com.
Happy Growing!
<3 Gina
]]>Ferns are a fantastic plant to add to your collection! They are one of the few houseplants that never flower, nor do they create seeds. Ferns reproduce via spores but differ from mosses due to their vascular structure within the plants themselves. They’re an ancient type of plant that first appear in the fossil record in the late Devonian Period 360 million years ago and have been persisting and diversifying ever since. Some have fairly simple fronds that radiate from a central rosette like that of a bird’s nest fern. Others grow on trees as an epiphyte, such as the staghorn fern. But many take more familiar forms with fronds comprised of small segments like wood ferns. True ferns are all pet safe, though beware of fern imposters if you are searching for pet safe plants exclusively. The asparagus fern is not a fern and is toxic to children and pets. Luckily for houseplant, many of the ferns have very similar care to each other.
Think of the environment the ferns naturally live in when considering where to place your fern. They grow in the understory in shady areas, and sometimes even in deep shade in well established forests. While bright indirect light is appreciated by many ferns and will help them to grow more quickly and resist potential problems, direct light will burn their leaves. Ferns are tolerant of many low light situations and tend to thrive in more humid environments, making them perfect for the bathroom, where not many plants can thrive. Even though they tolerate low light levels, it is still possible to provide too little light. If your fern halted growth and is in a dim area, this is possibly the cause.
Ferns need consistent moisture. Always check the soil before you water to avoid root rot. When the soil is dry about an inch down, it is time to water again. When you water, the soil should be completely saturated. This may sound like over watering, but over watering is the frequency, not the quantity of water. Watering small amounts more often will not allow the soil to dry properly, which leads to the roots being constantly soaked, which impairs gas exchange within the roots and will lead to the suffocation and death of the roots. Instead, completely saturating the soil and waiting until it reaches the correct level of dryness before repeating the process ensures the plants have plenty of water to drink and the roots will not rot. This applies to everything from ferns to succulents! No matter if you are watering from the top or the bottom, the soil should be completely saturated. If watering from the top, this looks like adding water until the excess drains from the holes in the bottom of the pot. If watering from the bottom, be sure to add enough water to the tray the pot is soaking in to saturate the entirety of the soil. This may mean going back later to add more water halfway through the process. Allow the plant to soak until the top of the soil is moist. This could take minutes or hours depending on the pot size.
Ferns grow in soils with high organic content; the “dirt” portion of potting soil. Ferns will thrive in regular potting mix you get from garden centers without additional amendments. It is important to remember to fertilize ferns regularly. Because they live in areas with lots of natural compost, they tend to be one of the more hungry houseplants out there. How often it is appropriate to fertilize depends on what type of fertilizer you use. Liquid fertilizers should be applied more often than slow released fertilizing pellets. No matter what fertilizer you choose to use, be sure to follow the directions on the bottle.
Ferns, like many popular houseplants, are fairly disease resistant, but unfortunately that doesn’t mean they never have issues. Many of their most common problems are due to different environmental factors. Listed below are a few of the most common problems you may be experiencing with your fern and how to fix them.
Crisping fronds unfortunately can be caused by more than one factor. The good news is that they are both easy to fix! If the crispy portions of the leaves are dull in color and focused on the new growth, this is a sign of underwatering. This is easily fixed by following the watering directions above. If the edges of the fronds are crisping and turning brown, this is a sign of too low humidity. Moving the fern to a more humid room such as the kitchen or bathroom will help, but some houses are drier than others and may require the addition of a humidifier. Moving the fern to a greenhouse cabinet will also help to increase the surrounding humidity.
Root rot is unfortunately one of the more common issues with ferns. Symptoms of root rot include mottled yellowing of the leaves, stunted or halted growth, severe wilting, and the loss of fronds. If your fern has many segments to its fronds, the segments may begin to fall off individually. Check the roots to determine whether your suspicions of root rot are correct. Healthy fern roots are thin and brown, which can be confusing because other plants’ roots can look similar to healthy fern roots when experiencing root rot. The photo to the left shows healthy roots. Carefully compare the roots to one another. Trim off any unhealthy roots and reduce the frequency of watering. If the problem persists, a fungicide may be beneficial.
This occurs more often in birds nest ferns and other species that grow in the rosette pattern than in ferns that grow with numerous fronds in several different directions. Often, this is caused by watering the foliage of the plant when watering from above. This is easily fixed by watering just the soil with a watering can or hose attachment, or by watering from the bottom. Keeping your fern in a dark location is likely to make this problem more prolific.
Collapsing fronds that often have yellow portions unfortunately often spells doom for ferns. This is typically due to extensive rot that has spread to the crown of the plant, which resides just below the soil. Ferns can survive this, but it is best to prevent it before it happens. The most common causes of this pattern of rot include excess moisture between watering, a pot without drainage holes, water sitting below the pot often in a cover pot, and too little light. Sometimes extensive root rot will become crown rot, though this is not always the case. Ferns will often show other symptoms of distress before it comes to this.
Having a collection of only ferns would still be stunning to the eye due to the extremely varied appearances of many of them. Pet owners and parents can rest easy with the non-toxic nature of this group of plants. As always, if you have any questions or concerns about your plants, please do not hesitate to reach out. Send a photo as well as how you have been caring for your plant to cedarbridgebotanicals@gmail.com and I will be able to help you!
Happy Growing!
<3 Gina
]]>Maranta is a fairly small genus comprising of only a few dozen plants mostly native to Brazil. They are commonly called prayer plants due to the plant’s ability to move their leaves. During the day, the leaves lay flat, absorbing the sun’s rays. At night, the leaves will fold up similar to that of praying hands. The leaves across this genus, while all similar in shape, are distinguished and interesting as far as their coloration goes. Maranta leuconeura is perhaps the most common species within the houseplant trade, but still comes in many different colors. Maranta ‘Lemon Lime’ has dark green leaves patterned with lighter green around the edge of the leaf, with even lighter thin veins that almost look neon or like a highlighter with the contrast. A more common variety of this species has red or pink veining instead of the bright green. The decorative leaves compared with the plant’s non-toxic nature has made this a popular houseplant.
These plants do the best when placed in an area with bright, indirect light. In the wild, these plants grow in moist or swampy tropical forests. Only growing a couple feet tall at most, these are an understory plant and require some shielding from sunlight. Outdoors, this means a shady area like a covered porch, somewhere that gets dappled sun, or any area with 4-5 hours or less of direct sun. Inside, that means somewhere nice and bright. Our homes are a lot dimmer than many of us realize when compared to the outdoor lighting conditions. Putting these plants in an area with too much sun will potentially cause sunburn. Sunburn presents as large swaths of brown on the leaves that will not heal once there. If the plant isn’t given enough light, the spaces between the leaves will lengthen and the colors may dull, though these plants are tolerant of lower light. Perfect light will have beautiful, vibrant leaves. If you suspect an area has too dim of light, adding a grow light will be beneficial. Be sure to follow the directions on the packaging, as each grow light is different and some need to have more distance between the light and the plant to avoid the same type of burns caused by the sun, keeping the light on a dimmer setting will also help mitigate the risks associated with strong lighting.
Keep their native environment in mind when watering your prayer plant. They should not be allowed to completely dry out, and the soil should be kept moist. Though, soggy soils can still cause root rot. Water when the top of the soil just begins to dry. The leaves will curl on themselves when the plant is too dry and ready for water. When you water, be it from the top or the bottom, the entirety of the soil should be saturated. To do this, if watering from the top, continue to add water until excess drains from the holes. Allow to drip dry and discard the excess. If watering from the bottom, place the pot in a tray that has enough water to saturate the entirety of the soil. This may mean you need to come back and add water halfway through the watering process. Allow the plant to soak until the top of the soil is moist. This could take anywhere from minutes to hours depending on the size of the pot. Don’t water your plant before checking the soil first. It is important to remember that plants don’t act on a schedule, so it may not always need water every week on the same day, for example. Watering without checking the soil is the most common way plants get root rot. The second most common way is by using small amounts of water more often- that is overwatering. Overwatering is the frequency, not the quantity of water.
Maranta grow in areas where the soil is high in organic matter. This is the “dirt” portion of potting soil. Typical potting soil you get from many garden centers will work perfectly for these plants without amendments. Be sure to fertilize regularly following the directions on the bottle. Different forms of fertilizer require different application methods and frequency. For example, slow release fertilizer is typically good for up to 6 months, while some liquid fertilizers are best effective when used with every watering. There are times when these plants bloom. There is a rumor that the blooms mean the plants are stressed and are on a downswing, but the truth is the opposite! Flowers mean the plant is doing well and has enough nutrients and energy to reproduce. The flowers aren’t showy and can be removed, as the plant will direct energy towards the flowers and away from the foliage.
Maranta are pretty disease resistant plants, as with many common houseplants. Though, this doesn’t mean they can’t or don’t have problems occasionally. Here are the most common problems prayer plants may encounter.
Browning leaf tips are a common sign of low humidity you may have seen in other houseplants. Prayer plants will typically do well with most room humidity levels, but some houses are drier than others. Moving the plant to a room with higher humidity levels such as the bathroom or the kitchen or obtaining a humidifier will resolve this issue. The brown sections of the leaves are dead and will not recover. Leaving the brown portions will not cause further harm to the plant, though if you prefer, you can cut them off. If you choose this option, be sure to leave some of the brown on. If you cut into the healthy portion of the leaf, it will still scar over with a brown sliver. Open wounds give opportunities for infections to enter the plant that will be significantly harder to treat.
Mealybugs are a white, sap-sucking insect that produces the honeydew mentioned above. They often hide on the underside of leaves and in tight crevices of new growth. They are easily treated with pesticides, an alcohol mixture, or beneficial insects. For more information on how to identify and treat mealybugs, check out the blog post titled Mealybugs and How to Deal with Them.
Spider mites are tiny, spin webs, and feed on the sap of many houseplants. Often, you will find their webs or see the damage they cause before you see the spider mites themselves. Washing the leaves and increasing humidity will help to decrease and eliminate the population. Insecticidal soap and systemic pesticides may also be needed if the infestation is severe. For more information about treatment and identification, please reference the article titled Spider Mites and How to Deal With Them.
Overall, prayer plants are a fun and rewarding plant to keep in the home. The way they move is unique and the colors of their foliage will bring a highlight to any room! Homes with pets can rest easy with this non-toxic, pet safe plant. As always, if you have any questions about your plants or are worried about them in any way, send me a photo as well as how you have been taking care of it to cedarbridgebotanicals@gmail.com and I will be able to help.
Happy Growing!
<3 Gina
]]>Alocasia Polly have quickly become one of the more popular houseplants on the market. And it’s easy to see why! They have large, interesting leaves in terms of shape and color. You may also hear this plant called the African Mask or Elephant Ear plant. The native range is a bit disputed, as Alocasia x amazonica ‘Polly’ is a hybrid of unknown parentage. Most likely, the parents probably come from southern Asia. What is known for sure is that just like many alocasia, this cultivar would be right at home in a tropical rainforest understory. This is true for many houseplants, including some you may be more familiar with such as many species of philodendron. Alocasia as a genus ranges in difficulty from beginner friendly to expert level plants. Alocasia Polly falls in the beginner friendly to intermediate skill range. This care sheet will break down how to properly care for Alocasia Polly like an experienced grower!
Any plant that grows as an understory plant needs to be placed in a shady area outside where they will not receive more than four hours of direct sunlight per day. Inside, this translates to “bright indirect light,” though can tolerate medium light, as well. While we may think our homes are well lit, often it is with the use of additional artificial lighting that is not useful to plants. Taking a walk in the woods on an average day will give you an idea of what kind of lighting these plants require. Too much light will cause scorching of the leaves, large swaths of brown caused by the sun. The brown areas are necrotic and will not recover. Sunburn remains for the life of the leaf. The light can still be too bright without causing sunburn. The leaves will begin to look washed out and pale if this is the case. If placed in too dim of an area, this plant shows it a little differently than other plants you may be familiar with. Alocasia Polly will turn all of its leaves toward the nearest light source, as well as grow longer petioles, the stems the leaves attach to, in order to try and reach for the light. When a plant does this, it is called etiolation. If this is an extreme case of etiolation, the petioles may no longer be able to support the leaves. Adding a grow light to the area will help your plant to thrive. The grow lights have the same precautions that the sun has, be sure to follow the directions on the grow light packaging to ensure you will not mount it too close to the plant, or keep it on a dimmer setting to avoid burning.
Watering is going to be the biggest challenge with keeping your Alocasia Polly happy and healthy. These plants thrive with soil that is consistently moist. If the soil is too dry, leaves will begin to yellow in interesting ways, ultimately leading
to dormancy of the plant. If the soil is consistently soggy, this will cause root rot, which leads to its own consequences. Water when the very top of the soil begins to dry. When you water, do not add a measured amount of water. No matter if you are watering from the top or from the bottom, the soil should be saturated when you are finished watering. From the top this looks like adding water to the soil, avoiding the leaves, until the excess water drains from the bottom of the pot. Watering from the bottom means setting your plant in a tray of water that has enough to saturate the soil. This may mean you need to add water back into the tray halfway through the process. Leave the plant to soak until the top of the soil is damp. This could take minutes to hours, depending on the size of the plant and the pot. Never water your plants without checking the soil first. Not only do plants not run on a schedule where they will always need water on Friday, for example, but this is the most common way root rot to begin. Overwatering occurs when water is applied too frequently, often in smaller amounts and is not related to a large quantity of water. If the soil is too wet, gas exchange cannot occur in the roots like it needs to, which will lead to the suffocation and death of roots. The second most common way for root rot to occur is improper watering, or only giving small or measured amounts of water at a time.
Alocasia grow in areas with high organic content in the soil, as well as with sufficient drainage. This means most potting soils straight out of the bag will be perfect for these plants! If you find yourself to be more on the overwatering side, it would be beneficial to either use a cactus mix with high organic content, the “dirt” portion of the soil, or add soil amendments to make the soil you are using slightly more chunky, but not both. Adding too much of the amendment, be it perlite, orchid bark, etc. will cause the soil to drain and dry out too quickly. Be sure to fertilize regularly according to the directions on the bottle. Different types of fertilizer will require different application methods and frequencies.
Alocasia Polly, like many popular houseplants, are fairly disease resistant and don’t often have many problems. Unfortunately, this doesn’t mean that they will never have issues! Here are some of the most common problems you may come across during the care of your new Alocasia.
It is important to remember this plant is able to go dormant before you dub it as dead and toss it in the trash or the compost. If all of leaves die off, but the bulb is still nice and firm and the roots are healthy, it is likely your plant simply went dormant. This could be caused by cool temperatures coming from a drafty window or, more likely, they were allowed to dry too much too often. Simply keep your plant in a spot where it will receive plenty of light when it begins to break dormancy and continue to care for it according to this sheet, not allowing it to dry completely. Older leaves will naturally die off as part of the natural growth cycle.
When only the tips of the leaves are browning, this is a common sign that there is not enough humidity in the area. You may have seen this happen on other tropical plants in your collection. It is an easy fix by moving this plant to a more humid room like a bathroom or a kitchen, or by obtaining a humidifier and placing it in the same room as the plant. Alocasia Polly often thrive in room humidity, but if your home is dry, it may need a little bit of help, though it will not need to be placed directly next to the humidifier. The brown leaves are necrotic and will not heal, but will also not cause more harm to the plant to leave them on. If you choose to cut off the browning, leave a sliver of brown on the leaves. This will prevent additional wounds on the leaves, which will also eventually brown along the edge.
If the brown circles on the leaves are perfect circles, this is a sign that there is a fungal infection. This is often caused by watering the foliage while you are watering the rest of the plant, or when the plant is located in an area with too low of ventilation for a prolonged period of time. The circles will often have a “bullseye” appearance, though this is not always present. It is best if the plants are treated with a systemic fungicide. The brown circles will not heal, but if they are not spreading, this is a good sign. Removing the affected leaf or leaves will not necessarily remove the entire infection, but it is still a good practice.
Mealybugs are a white, sap-sucking insect that produces the honeydew mentioned above. They often hide on the underside of leaves and in tight crevices of new growth. They are easily treated with pesticides, an alcohol mixture, or beneficial insects. For more information on how to identify and treat mealybugs, check out the blog post titled Mealybugs and How to Deal with Them.
Spider mites are tiny, spin webs, and feed on the sap of many houseplants. Often, you will find their webs or see the damage they cause before you see the spider mites themselves. Washing the leaves and increasing humidity will help to decrease and eliminate the population. Insecticidal soap and systemic pesticides may also be needed if the infestation is severe. For more information about treatment and identification, please reference the article titled Spider Mites and How to Deal With Them.
Alocasia Polly are one of the most unique plants you can add to your collection and will thrive with the correct care. It is a relatively low maintenance and easy growing plant which will bring a little something extra to any room in your home! As always, if you have any questions or concerns when it comes to your plants, please do not hesitate to reach out. Send me a photo as well as how you have been caring for your plant to cedarbridgebotanicals@gmail.com and I will be able to help!
Happy Growing!
<3 Gina
]]>Spider mites are a small spider relative that have piercing-sucking mouthparts. There are 1,200 or more species of spider mites, but don't let that intimidate you! They have similar ID and effective treatment. They do spin webs, but the damage they cause to the plants does not come from this webbing. They feed on the sap produced by the plants. This style of feeding can transmit plant diseases like viruses, many of which do not have a cure. So, in order to protect your plants from this pest that potentially can lead to other diseases, it is important to scout, properly ID, and effectively treat as soon as you see them. Like with all pest control, the first step is to know the proper identification of what you are looking at during a routine scouting.
Spider mites aren't like other pests that are easily spotted sitting against the foliage. They're incredibly tiny, less than one millimeter long, but can vary in size and color. For spider mites, it may be easier to look for other signs and symptoms before looking for the pest themselves. On the right, there is an extreme example of the yellow stippling that is caused by the process in which spider mites feed. They use their specialized mouthparts to stab a hole in the leaf and suck the sap from the leaf. This is not unique to spider mites, as this stippling pattern is caused by other plant pests with the same piercing-sucking mouthparts. Because of this, you cannot solely rely on the damage they cause as a definite identification method. If you suspect spider mites are the source of the stippling on the plant, look a little closer. Spider mites are tiny. You may need a hand lens to see them well. Without one, they tend to look like specks of dirt, usually on the underside of leaves. You may see them moving about. If the suspect specks are stationary, I don't suggest touching them to encourage them to move, because they can easily hitch a ride and end up on another plant in your collection. Always wash your hands thoroughly between plants with suspected pests and healthy plants! A telltale sign of spider mites, aside from seeing the actual pests themselves, is their webbing.
It is important to remember that spiders and spider mites both create webs that are used in differing ways. The spiders that many of us see and may be frightened of in day-to-day life use their webbing as a tool to capture prey. Typical spider webbing tends to have visible spaces between the individual strands, like your typical cobwebs and spider webs you've seen around. If there is only one, easily visible spider in the web, this is not a spider mite web. Spider mite webs are used as a network for travel and as a place to live. Because spider mites are so much smaller than a typical spider, the webs are made of a finer material and have significantly smaller spaces between. They look like fine cobwebs- but it's important to note that cobwebs are not made by spider mites. Below, there are two photos. One of spider mite webbing, one of the average cobweb. Can you tell the difference? Take a guess which is the spider mite webbing before you continue reading.
The webbing on the left is an average cobweb- this was made by a typical spider. The webbing on the right is much finer; the space between the strands and even the individual strands themselves are difficult to make out. The small specks inside the webbing are the spider mites themselves. There is something else that is important to understand before looking at treatment options...
Understanding the life cycle will help to understand how to treat the pest you are dealing with. This will help you to treat them the most effectively before the pests have the chance to cause extensive damage. Spider mites tend to thrive in hot, dry climates. In warmer regions, as well as indoors, they will continue to lay eggs all year long. Under optimal conditions, some species of spider mites can hatch in as little as 3 days and reach maturity in 5. When they hatch from their egg, the spider mite only has six legs, but come time to molt after feeding on their host plant for a few days, they gain the extra pair of legs, showing their resemblance to a spider. Two more molts occur before the spider mite is sexually mature and ready to begin making new spider mites. An adult female can lay up to 20 eggs per day and live for 2-4 weeks. This fast reproduction period gives the spider mites the ability to adapt and develop a resistance to certain pesticides extremely quickly. The best way around that, if you decide to go the pesticide route, is to switch up the pesticides you are using frequently. Not just the brand, as they could still have the same active ingredient and functions, but the delivery method, as well. Otherwise, the way in which the pesticide kills the pest. Catching them early is key to quick and effective treatment.
Monitoring or scouting your plants regularly is the best way to stay on top of pests and keep them in check in addition to preventative measures. Increasing humidity and moisture is an effective way to help deter the spider mites. Spider mites, like other pests, often are found on the underside of leaves if not in their webs. They're also more likely to attack the tender new growth of a plant. It's a good idea to give your plants a good look through once a week, especially if they live outside or you bring home new plants. Keeping new plants isolated is a good idea if you have an extensive collection where pests could quickly travel from plant to plant. Due to the amount of species of spider mites, there are many plants that they will attack if given the chance. Keep a special eye on those plants that are existing at room humidity, those with broad leaves, and any new plants you have just purchased. Plants that are kept in higher humidity areas like greenhouse cabinets or bathrooms tend to have less instances of spider mite infestations, though this is not to say they are immune and should still be checked for pests regularly.
As stated above, pesticides are an option for effective spider mite treatment, though it is not a good idea to continuously use the same pesticide for spider mites, due to their ability to become tolerant quickly. Using pesticides in combination with one another can be effective, such as a systemic treatment and a foliar spray, but this is not always recommended. Read all pesticide labels and follow the directions for application, as those labels as written are the law.There are many types of insecticidal control, like horticultural oils, soaps, and what you traditionally think of as a pesticide. Just be sure whatever you are applying states somewhere on the label that it is rated for and will target spider mites. That being said, pesticides are not the only option.
A hard spray of water from the hose may knock a fair amount of spider mites off of the plant, leaving you with a smaller spider mite army to battle. Beneficial insects are a great alternative to insecticides and should not be used in tandem, as your pesticides are likely to kill your beneficial bugs, too! Different predators will attack different species of spider mites. Amblyseius swirskii, Neoseiulus californicus, and Amblyseius cucumeris are all mite predators that prey on several common types of spider mites. Some also feed on other common plant pests like thrips. They are also all species of mites, however these mites will not attack your plants. Instead, they eat the pests attacking your plants! Beneficial insects will continually attack the pests in your home, even while you are away. Even with beneficial insects, a second application may be needed to fully eradicate the spider mite infestation.
Be sure to check your plants, even if you have already implemented a treatment, no matter the pest. The quick reproductive time of spider mites provides a challenge when trying to decrease their numbers.
Overall, spider mites are an intimidating plant pest, but by no means do they spell doom for all of your plants. Now that you are armed with the information needed to help ID them properly, as well as several options for treatment, your plants will thank you! As always, if you have any questions about your plants, please feel free to reach out.
Happy Growing!
<3 Gina
]]>Putting your dracaena in bright, indirect light is the most ideal light level for many, if not all, species within this genus. Some species can tolerate lower light conditions, but similar to the snake plant, just because they can tolerate the low light doesn't necessarily mean they do not appreciate brighter conditions. Putting your dracaena in direct sunlight, especially outdoors, will put the plant at risk of sun scorch on its leaves. If the leaves are burned by the bright light, the burn will remain for the life of the leaf. Typically, indoors the windows filter plenty of sunlight so the chance of this happening to a plant on the windowsill is slim to none. If put in an area with too little light, the plant will etiolate. This means the space between the leaves will lengthen and the plant will bend toward the light. This is easily remedied by the addition of a grow light. The grow light does carry similar risks to placing the plant outdoors. Be sure there is sufficient distance between the light and the plant to ensure the leaves will not burn. Every light is different and has different recommendations, however these guidelines are often printed on the box the light comes in. Typically the recommended distance between the plant and the light ranges between 12-17".
Dracaena are very forgiving with watering. They thrive when allowed to dry between the watering, but are tolerant of slight overwatering. Though this is not to say the plant will tolerate constantly wet or moist soils. Before each watering, check the soil to be sure it is dry. Do not simply look or touch the top of the soil, but check the inside the soil, as well. Push your finger in at least to the second knuckle, and if your dracaena is in a larger pot, push your entire finger in. If the soil feels dry, it is time to water. When you water, fully saturate the soil. Some may be afraid that this will cause the plant to be overwatered, however this is simply not the case. Overwatering is the frequency of the water, not the quantity. No matter if you are watering from the top or the bottom, the soil should be entirely saturated before you stop. When watering from the top, this is easily achieved by continuing to add water until excess drains from the holes in the bottom of the pot. If the soil is exceptionally dry, continue adding water for a few seconds to ensure the middle of the soil also becomes saturated. If watering from the bottom, soak the plant in enough water to saturate the pot. This may mean you need to add water to the dish or tray you are soaking in halfway through the watering process. Allow the pot to soak until the soil is moist on the top. This could be minutes or hours, depending on the size of the pot. If the plant is forgotten in the water for a day or two- do not worry! It will be just fine, so long as it is not watered again until the soil has dried properly.
Dracaena can tolerate typical potting soils, even thriving in them! Well draining soil is key, and most potting soils have that aspect down. If you find yourself to be over watering your plants, getting a chunkier mix may be beneficial for you. This will allow the soil to drain and dry faster, due to the air pockets left by the chunky aspects of the soil. Some cactus mixes are also suitable for those who overwater their plants.
Dracaena are very hardy and relatively pest and disease resistant genus. They not only tolerate a variety of conditions, but can also survive fairly heavy attacks from pests. This is not to say that you shouldn't treat the pests as they arise, but more of an assurance that the plant will likely survive if you do not catch the pest before they become numerous.
Brown tips on dracaena are very common. You may even notice them with plants in stores, greenhouses, or plant boutiques. This doesn't mean your plant is dying! Most often, the cause of browning leaf tips is low humidity. While these are not plants that need excess humidity to survive, depending how dry your house is, they may suffer mildly. Increasing the humidity may solve this issue. If not, they were likely caused by underwatering. If you allow your plants to dry too much or too frequently, they do have the possibility of getting brown tips in addition to wilting or flagging. Brown portions of leaves are necrotic and will not heal. If you find them too unsightly, they can be cut off, but be sure to leave a sliver of brown. If you do not, the fresh cut on the leaf will brown off at the end anyway. It is the plant's version of a scab.
Spider mites are a dreaded pest among houseplant enthusiasts. They are notoriously hard to get rid of. All of the 1,200 species of spider mites are easily identified with yellow specks along the leaves, webs, and the tiny spider mites themselves. Webbing doesn't automatically mean spider mites- regular spiders often hide in plants if they find their way into our homes! Spider mites will almost always be in their webs. Looking closely, you will be able to see the tiny spider mites in their webbing. If there are webs, no visible mites, and no yellow pinpricks along the leaves, you may just have a regular spider on your hands. If you confirm spider mites, they are notoriously difficult to treat. Separate this plant from other plants in the area to avoid the transfer of the pests. Use a pesticide labeled for use against spider mites, either systemic or a spray. I suggest systemic due to the nature of the use of this type of pesticide. It essentially makes your plant toxic to the pests to ingest. That way, if you miss spraying some, they will likely perish the next time they go to have a meal of your beloved houseplant. Alternatively, you could use some beneficial insects. They work all the time and do not pose a threat to pets or people. Neoseiulus fallacis, Amblyseiu andersoni, and Neoseilus californicus are all species of predatory mites that prey on multiple species of spider mites. Be sure to keep up with monitoring and treatment if you find spider mites on your plants.
Mealybugs are a white, sap-sucking insect that produces honeydew that sooty mold thrives on. This is to say, if you have one pest, you may have another fungus on your hands, as well, so be sure to nip this one in the bud before they become out of control. They often hide on the underside of leaves and in tight crevices of new growth. They are easily treated with pesticides, an alcohol mixture, or beneficial insects. For more information on how to identify and treat mealybugs, check out the blog post titled Mealybugs and How to Deal with Them.
Sooty mold is easy to treat, however it doesn't usually occur without the presence of a pest. Sooty mold commonly grows on honeydew, the sugary excrement secreted by many plant pests including aphids, scale, and mealybugs. Simply wipe the mold from the leaves and stems and treat with a mild fungicide spray. However, this will likely only be a temporary solution until the pests producing honeydew are treated.
Overall, Dracaena are a very easy beginner plant that will bring a tropical feel to any bright area of the house! They are a bit of a slow grower, so if you are looking to get something to fill a lot of space, it is a good idea to get yourself a larger plant to begin with. Smaller plants will thrive on desks and countertops next to windows or with a grow light for years to come before they outgrow that location.
As always, if you have any worries about your plants or have any questions, please feel free to reach out!
Happy Growing!
<3 Gina
]]>over 500 accepted species within this genus, making Hoya a diverse group of plants. Native to several countries in Asia, as well as some species in Australia, this group of plants also goes by the name waxvine or waxflower due to their flowers appearing to be made from wax. Though there are hundreds of species of hoya, there are only a few sold as houseplants. These few have been bred to have fantastic diversity, sometimes making it hard to believe that they are the same species! The most common in cultivation are Hoya carnosa, Hoya pubicalyx, and Hoya kerrii. H. carnosa is the most common and possibly most varied, as both Krimson Queen and Hindu Rope are cultivars of this species. While each species has its own minute differences in care, overall the entire genus can thrive with the same care as a houseplant.
While they can occasionally tolerate lower light conditions, hoya thrive in bright, indirect light. Without proper lighting, these plants will not flower and will etiolate. Etiolation occurs when plants stretch and reach for the light. Etiolated plants are often described as leggy. The brighter the light, the more fragrant flowers and vibrant foliage to enjoy! Be sure not to put the plant in direct sunlight for more than a few hours a day, this can cause sunburn to occur on the leaves, which will remain for the life of the leaf. Keeping these plants in or near a bright window will be perfect. A grow light can supplement lower light areas, though be sure to keep the lights a sufficient distance from the leaves to prevent burns. The minimum distance from the leaves varies depending upon the brand and model of the lights; many will have the recommended distance listed on the packaging. If not, 15-24 inches above the highest point of the plant is a good rule to follow that will apply to most grow lights.
Hoya are very drought tolerant plants. It should not be watered until the soil in the pot is completely dry. The leaves of hoya are usually firm and rigid, though, when they need water, they become slightly pliable. When watering, do not give a small amount of water at a time. Overwatering is not the quantity of water, but the frequency. The proper way to water is to soak the substrate of the pot thoroughly, no matter if you are watering from the top or the bottom. From the top, this is best achieved by watering until excess drains from the holes in the bottom of the pot, then continuing to add water for a few more seconds to ensure every spot in the pot has been saturated. If watering from the bottom, be sure to add enough water to the tray you are soaking it in that will saturate the pot and allow the pot to sit in the water until the top of the soil appears damp, as well. At least within the top inch. Depending on the size of the pot, this could take minutes to hours. Allowing your plant to soak for an entire day will not be detrimental if the soil is allowed to properly dry between watering.
It is possible to have a hoya thrive in typical potting soil, though often times regular potting mix does not dry quickly or completely enough and can lead to root rot. It is best to have a chunky soil fortified with nutrients. The aroid soil I offer in my shop is perfect! Not only will this help to prevent over watering, it will give the roots a chance to breathe (Find it here! https://cedarbridgebotanicals.com/collections/frontpage/products/aroid-soil ). Well drained succulent soils also work well. Many times, hoya will be sold in a chunky soil mix. If this is the case, it is perfectly fine to leave the hoya in the nursery pot until it out grows it! If not, and the hoya is sold in something more closely resembling regular potting soil, you may want to consider replacing the soil with something faster draining.
Like many beginner friendly houseplants, hoya tend to be fairly disease resistant, but that doesn't mean disease immune. Here are a few common problems you may experience with your hoya.
This may be the most common problem associated with hoya. This is caused by water sitting on the roots for a prolonged amount of time, limiting the gas exchange that is able to be performed by the roots, suffocating them. Often, hoya will drop leaves as a symptom of root rot. If it is just one or two of the oldest leaves, this shouldn't cause alarm, as this is a natural process. Just like you can't keep every hair on your head, plants can't keep every leaf they make. However, if they drop several old leaves, new growth, or especially both, check the roots for rot. Dead roots will be thready in appearance. Healthy roots will be plump and firm. Adjusting your watering to ensure the soil is completely dry before watering again should solve this problem. If the plant does not recover within a few weeks, remove all of the unhealthy roots and repot in chunky, well draining soil.
Sooty mold is easy to treat, however it doesn't usually occur without the presence of a pest. Sooty mold commonly grows on honeydew, the sugary excrement secreted by many plant pests including aphids, scale, and mealybugs. Simply wipe the mold from the leaves and stems and treat with a mild fungicide spray. However, this will likely only be a temporary solution until the pests producing honeydew are treated.
Mealybugs are a white, sap-sucking insect that produces the honeydew mentioned above. They often hide on the underside of leaves and in tight crevices of new growth. They are easily treated with pesticides, an alcohol mixture, or beneficial insects. For more information on how to identify and treat mealybugs, check out the blog post titled Mealybugs and How to Deal with Them.
Aphids are another sap sucking insect that commonly afflict hoya plants. They are usually found on the stems near the new growth and also secrete the pesky honeydew. They can sometimes be blasted off of the plant with a strong jet of water, or treated with either a systemic pesticide or and insecticidal soap. Many beneficial insects prey on aphids! Ladybugs are the first to many of our minds, however, green lacewing larvae eat far more aphids than ladybugs! As an adult, green lacewings drink nectar and act as pollinators. For those reasons, I personally prefer to utilize green lacewings to help control any aphids that may arise on my plants.
Overall, hoya are a great beginner plant that love bright light and dry soils. If cared for properly, they will give you beautiful, fragrant blooms! They're a lovely beginner plant with the added bonus of being pet safe and relatively disease resistant!
Happy Growing!
<3 Gina
]]>Like other philodendrons, Silver Swords have adapted to life below the rain forest canopy where light can be dim. They thrive in bright, indirect light. If being placed outdoors for the summer, avoid direct sun, as this will cause the leaves to burn it is best to keep them in shade or in an area with morning sun and afternoon shade. When grown indoors, it's much more likely that the plant will be lacking light. If the light is too dim, the plant will become leggy and reach for the light. If your plant begins etiolating (reaching for the light and stretching), it would be beneficial to invest in a grow light. Be sure to mount it at least 15 inches away from the plant or keep it on a dimmer setting.
Watering Silver Swords is very similar to watering other philodendron species. Overwatering is easy to do if you water without checking the soil beforehand. Don't water until the top few inches of the soil are dry. When it comes time to water, no matter if you water from the top or the bottom, the soil should be completely saturated. If watering from the top, this means continuing to add water until it flows out of the bottom of the pot. If watering from the bottom, this means allowing the plant to soak in adequate water until the top of the soil is moist, as well. Depending on the size of the pot, this could take minutes or hours. Overwatering isn't the quantity of water that you give during watering, but the frequency at which it is watered.
Philodendrons, like many other popular house plants, prefer water that is well draining while also having high levels of organic matter (the "dirt" part of potting soil). Silver Swords are no different. They can survive and thrive in regular potting soil just fine, however if you tend to over water your plants, you may want to gravitate toward a more chunky mix. The Aroid Soil mix offered under the "Supplies" section of my store would be brilliant for those who tend to water too frequently. It's a chunky mix containing coco coir and fortified with worm castings. If you choose to use regular potting soil, be sure to not over water and thoroughly check for dryness before watering again.
Just like every plant, Philodendron Silver Sword needs nutrients to survive. This means you should keep fertilizer on hand. It is best to use a balanced fertilizer
where the numbers are all the same (i.e. 7-7-7, 10-10-10, etc.). Every fertilizer is required to have these numbers on the box. There are several different types of fertilizer, such as slow release granules, water soluble, and liquid fertilizers. Because of this, it is best to follow the directions given to you by the fertilizer, as each type has its own application methods. Slow release fertilizers are often mixed into the soil to provide a small burst of fertilizer every time you water. These often last about six months before another application is needed. Liquid and soluble fertilizers also fertilize when you water, but you have to be mindful on how much you're mixing into the water and how often you fertilize. Mixing too high of a concentration can burn the roots. This can happen with slow release granules, as well, though it is not as common. Following the directions provided on the packaging will ensure this does not happen.
Philodendrons often slow their growth during winter with diminished light. They often do not need as much fertilizer as they do while growing quickly during summer.
While these are very pest- resistant plants, they still can get infestations. A few that are more likely to infest this plant would be as follows.
Scale is a type of sap-sucking insect. The common name scale comprises about 8,000 different species. They look like brown lumps along stems and often on the undersides of leaves. Sometimes they are overlooked before the infestation gets out of control. Their camouflage often makes them look like a leaf scar, or the area where a leaf was before falling off. They're often found on new growth. Because they have a hard shield covering them, many of the methods that control mealybugs are not effective, despite them both technically being scale insects. Soft bodied scale can be controlled via rubbing alcohol, though this will not effect hard bodied scale. They should be physically removed and crushed as you do so. Systemic pesticides will kill any that are not physically removed. If you prefer to avoid the use of pesticides, Aphytis melinus, and Lindorus lophanthae are to beneficial insects that will target scale for control.
Mealybugs are a form of soft bodied scale that are much easier to control than hard bodied scale species. They look like white ovals that are often fuzzy, though as juvenile instars, they do not have the waxy covering. They often hide in new growth on the underside of leaves, on stems, and in tight crevices. They can also be treated with a systemic pesticide, though if you would prefer, beneficial bugs that target mealybugs include mealybug destroyers, green lacewings, and ladybugs. They can also be controlled with a spray made of water and 70% isopropyl alcohol. For more detailed information, take a look at the post titled Mealybugs and How to Deal With Them.
Spider mites are tiny insects that suck the sap of your plants. They're so small that often times, their webbing or the yellow pinpricks they cause are noticed before they are. Spider mites can be treated with a variety of insecticides, from systemic pesticides, insecticidal soap, and, of course, predatory insects. There are over 1,200 species of spider mites, and not every predator will go for every mite species. Luckily, the two-spotted spider mite is much more common than other spider mites. Amblyseius cucumeris and Neoseiulus fallacis are two beneficial insects that will target several species of mites.
Overall, Philodendron Silver Sword is a relatively pest-free, easy houseplant that will thrive if given the proper conditions and a support to climb. With leaves appearing as if they are made of pure silver, they are a stunning addition to any room or collection.
As always, if you have any questions on your plants, please don't be afraid to reach out!
Happy growing!
<3 Gina
]]>Snake plants can tolerate moderately low light, but they do need to some light to survive, just like all photosynthetic plants. Keeping this plant in low light areas will cause them to grow slower. The most ideal light for these plants is bright, indirect light. Direct sun, especially outdoors, will cause these plants to burn. Once a leaf has sunburn, it will remain for the life of the leaf. If there is too little light, the leaves will become thin and long, eventually they will become unable to support themselves. If they are being kept in an area that is too dim, a supplemental grow light will be beneficial. Just be sure the light source is at least 15" away from the plant.
Snake plants are tolerant of many different soil types, so regular potting soil will work just fine. The soil they come in from the nursery is more than suitable until they outgrow the pot. A cactus mix will also work well, or a mix of both! When a snake plant needs a new pot, be sure to choose a pot that is sturdy, as they can easily break out of thinner, plastic pots. Ceramic and terra cotta pots work well.
As mentioned before, these plants tolerate drought well. The soil should be allowed to dry completely before they are watered again. If you are unsure, wait a bit before watering again. While too little water is possible for these plants, too much water will cause harm much more quickly and is harder for the plant to recover from. Always check the soil before watering to help avoid overwatering.
When it is time to water, don't give a small amount. Provide enough water to saturate the soil. Remember, overwatering isn't the quantity of water, it is the frequency. If watering from above, keep adding water until the excess drains from the bottom. It may be beneficial to continue adding water for a bit, as dry soils take longer to saturate again. As long as the excess is draining, the plant will be fine. If watering from the bottom, allow the plant to soak until the top of the soil appears damp. Depending on the size of the pot, this could take anywhere from minutes to hours. Allowing your snake plant to sit in the water for an entire day will not cause harm, so long as you are sure the soil is dry before you water it again. If your plant is in terra cotta, be sure to saturate the pot, as well. The clay from the terra cotta will absorb water from the soil, causing it to dry faster. If you choose not to soak the terra cotta pots, watering will be required more frequently.
Snake plants are one of the easiest plants to care for out there, no matter if you have years of experience or are just starting out. Going along with this, they also are fairly disease resistant, but that doesn't mean they can't get sick. Here are a few of the most common problems when it comes to snake plants.
This is caused by overwatering. Roots can die off either because they have been infected with a fungus or the roots were not allowed to dry completely, thus unable to perform gas exchange, and suffocated. Yes, roots breathe just like leaves do! Signs include yellowing leaves unable to support themselves when they previously stood straight up, and drooping leaves. Often the drooping leaves are confused with wilting. Snake plants don't often wilt when they need water, though their leaves will become more flexible. If root rot is suspected, checking the root ball is the easiest way to confirm. Trim unhealthy portions of the roots off and reduce watering, always checking to see that the soil is dry before watering again. If the problem persists, a fungicide may be beneficial.
Mealybugs feed on many different types of plants. They are small, fuzzy looking, white insects that feed on the sap in the plant and produce honeydew, which can lead to sooty mold if left on the leaves. For more detailed treatment and identification, check out the article on mealybugs.
Scale are also sap sucking insects that produce honeydew. It is best to remove these insects when you find them and dispose of them. They can be tough to remove on their own, so insecticidal soap or a systemic pesticide may be necessary.
Spider mites are tiny, spin webs, and feed on the sap of many houseplants. Often, you will find their webs or see the damage they cause before you see the spider mites themselves. Washing the leaves and increasing humidity will help to decrease and eliminate the population. Insecticidal soap and systemic pesticides may also be needed if the infestation is severe.
Snake plants are truly some of the easiest plants to take care of. They come in so many fun colors and forms it can be hard to say no to a new one! As always, if you are worried about your plant in any way, please feel free to reach out.
Happy Growing!
<3 Gina
]]>Because this plant is an epiphyte, a plant that grows on other plants, they have adapted to shady conditions. Indoors, this means they will do best in an area with bright, indirect light. Outdoors, this means they should not be exposed to direct sun for more than a few hours. Dappled sun and shady areas are best. If being grown in a medium-low light area of the home, it may be best to use grow lights to ensure proper lighting. If the plant receives too much light, it can cause the plant to wilt, dry out too quickly, or even sunburn on the leaves. Too little light will result in a leggy plant and failure to thrive.
Young plants are often sold in typical potting soil, which is suitable for the life of the plant, as it holds adequate moisture. Many prefer to mount their ferns as they grow larger and more mature to more accurately simulate their natural environment. While this may be beneficial, it is not necessary in order for them to thrive. Though, it should be noted that there comes a size with these ferns where it makes more sense to mount them, rather than increasing pot size. The soil should be rich in organic material and hold moisture well, as these plants do not do well when they dry out. If mounting is more your style, sphagnum moss will hold moisture the best while also not falling off of the mount. The same goes if you were going to be putting your plant into an orchid box. Orchid boxes are made from slats of wood that provide plenty of air to the roots. It is a nice midway point between mounting your fern and simply increasing the pot size as it grows.
Staghorn ferns are water loving plants, like many other ferns. They should be allowed to dry slightly between watering, but not allowed to dry fully. There is no hard and fast rule for how often you should water any plant- nature isn't on a schedule. Staghorn ferns uptake water via both their fronds and roots, so misting the fronds between watering will help to prolong the amount of time you have to take it down if it is mounted. To water, soak the roots thoroughly. If it is mounted, this means taking it down from its mounted location, plaque and all. Soak this until the roots are saturated. If in a pot or orchid box, you could either water from the top, or what is more beneficial at times if the shield fronds are hiding most of the substrate, soak the planter from the bottom. Allow mountings to drip dry before returning them to their location. It is also beneficial to spray the fronds down with water while they are soaking to make sure it is getting a sufficient watering. If the fronds begin to blacken or brown at the base, this is a sign of overwatering. Fronds will wilt and become flimsy if underwatered.
Staghorn ferns, like other epiphytes, love humidity. If being kept in a humid area, watering should happen less often. Cooler temperatures and less light will also contribute to more infrequent watering and vice versa.
Most plants cannot thrive in pots and planters without additional fertilizer and staghorn ferns are no exception. Fertilizing will promote strong, growth, especially in younger plants. While some suggest slipping a banana peel behind the fronds to fertilize, I advise against this, as it can be a fruit fly issue indoors and isn't an effective way to fertilize that often needs supplementation. Using a well-balanced, water soluble fertilizer is most recommended. Look for even numbers on the box, such as 7-7-7, 1-1-1, 10-10-10, etc. The numbers will help to determine how often you should fertilize your plant, as well as the directions on the box. Lower number fertilizers can be used more frequently, though higher numbers, like 20-20-20, should be diluted to prevent burning. If your plant is still in a pot or orchid box, a slow release fertilizer may be a good alternative to liquid fertilizers.
If you want to mount your fern, it will be beneficial to wait until the fern has an established root system. Younger plants do not handle the stress that will occur when moving a plant from a pot to a mount well. While you can buy a fern already mounted, this can make them more expensive and may put them out of budget. Mounting your own fern can be a fun activity! You will need a wooden surface to serve as your mount, your fern, substrate (sphagnum moss or compost work well), something to secure it with (fishing line, twine, or even burlap), and nails or staples. The substrate you add will be sufficient for the life of the fern, so there will not be a need to take the fern down to add more. The wood you use for the plaque will need to be able to be soaked, so unstained wood works best. To begin, loosen the roots of your fern so it will not appear as though there is a pot under the mount. The roots don't have to be loosened completely, just to your desired level. Once the roots are loosened to your liking, place on the mount and surround with your substrate. Install nails for easy securing. Sphagnum moss can be secured with fishing line or twine, though if you are using compost, burlap is the better option. Burlap can be secured with staples, rather than nails. Once the substrate is secured, give your plant a good soak in its new home, drip dry, and hang.
Eventually, as your fern grows, the shield fronds will cover the mount. It is not suggested to remount the fern to a larger piece of wood. Instead, as the shield fronds make their way to the edge of the board, attach the current board to the larger piece.
Staghorn ferns are relatively pest-free when kept alone, however if a nearby plant has an infestation, it can transfer to the fern. Spider mites especially can transfer easily from one plant to another. Monitor your plants regularly to prevent pests from getting out of hand. Scale and mealybugs will often hide themselves well in the nooks under the tight shield fronds. It is best to leave the shield fronds alone if there are no pests suspected.
More commonly, these plants are associated with fungal infections like Rhizoctonia, which presents as black spots on the fronds. It is best to act fast in this situation by treating with a fungicide and lowering the humidity, as the fungus needs excessive moisture in order to survive. Untreated fungal infections can kill your plant.
At times on mature plants, the ends of the fertile fronds may turn brown in large swaths. Before breaking out the fungicide, take a closer look. This is how the spores will present on this type of fern! If your fern has gone to spore and you are in one of the states where this plant has escaped into the wild, it is best to bring it inside so you will not contribute to the population of invasive staghorn ferns.
Staghorn ferns are an incredibly rewarding plant. They bring a unique look to any room in your home. While they may be a bit tricky sometimes, they're definitely worth the try! As always, if you are worried about your plant in any way, please don't be afraid to reach out.
Happy Growing!
<3 Gina
]]>Small, white, fuzzy areas on your plant may not be mold- though it can look very similar! Mealybugs can have a variety of appearances, though all of the ways they present are akin. There are over 2,000 species of mealybugs, each with their own unique appearance, though all mealybugs are oval shaped, wax covered, and white to very light grey. Their bodies are segmented, though the segments aren't always easily noted. Some species can grow waxy filaments either down the side of the body to resemble legs, or as thin, waxy tails. Adult females are typically about one centimeter long. The above description covers females and nymphs, though young nymphs do not yet develop the waxy covering and may appear to be pink, yellow, grey, or orange. Adult males look very similar to small gnats with four eyes and two wings.
The wax can appear to have a fuzzy texture. This is especially true for the ovisacs laid by the adult females. Ovisacs hold the eggs and can appear to be white mold with the naked eye.
It is important to understand the life cycle of any insect to properly treat the infested plant or plants to be sure they take the least amount of damage possible. Some species of mealybugs will produce several ovisacs, while others can only produce one in their lifetime. After the ovisac containing up to 400 eggs is formed, it can take anywhere from 3-14 days for the eggs to hatch. Depending on the species and the environment, it could potentially take even longer. Typically, females will lay ovisacs in protected areas of the plant, such as tight angles between leaves and stems or on the underside of leaves. They favor new over old growth, so plant crowns are another popular place to find both adults and eggs. Females typically go through four instars before they become adults and can lay eggs, while males will have four molts, become a pupa, then emerge as the winged male. They can complete their life cycle in anywhere from 20-75 days, depending on the environmental factors and the species. Males often lose their mouthparts in the adult stage, but females can feed throughout their life.
Plants should be monitored for all types of pests regularly. Mealybugs, as well as many other pests, prefer the undersides of leaves and new growth. Be sure to look thoroughly in the tight nooks and crannies of your plants, as well. Both adult mealybugs and eggs can be found in the well protected areas of the plants. It's a good idea to give your plants a good look through once a week, especially if they live outside or you bring home new plants. Plants that commonly get mealybugs include succulents and cacti, as well as tropical plants like orchids and philodendrons. This doesn't mean that common outdoor plants are safe! Grapes, hibiscus and many other plants usually grown outdoors also get mealybugs.
Mealybugs are fairly easy to treat! Heavily infested parts of the plant should be removed, placed into plastic bags, and discarded. If you choose to use a pesticide, be sure it will target mealybugs and that you follow the label. When it comes to pesticides, the label is the law. Only apply following the directions provided. The wax of the
older instars repel water and chemicals that may be applied to them, so keep that in mind when treating. Treating plants with systemic pesticides before you see pests can help to prevent any infestation.
If pesticides aren't your thing, combining one part water with one part 70% isopropyl alcohol in a spray bottle or on a q-tip will help to kill the pests without pesticides. Be sure to wipe the alcohol and mealybugs off of your plants if you choose this method. This method works for mealybugs because, while they are a form of scale, they are a soft-bodied scale. Alcohol is not an effective treatment for hard bodied insects, like other forms of scale.
Beneficial insects are also an option! Minute pirate bugs, parasitic wasps, some species of ladybugs, lacewing larvae, and predatory flies all have mealybugs on the menu. If you are ordering ladybugs, please be sure they have been sustainably harvested and they are a native species to your area. There are invasive species of ladybugs that should not be released into the landscape. Of all of the predators, lacewings are my personal favorite due to their voracious appetite and availability to purchase as eggs or larvae.
Be sure to check your plants again, even after you have treated the mealybugs in case there are more you couldn't see or eggs that have hatched.
Overall, mealybugs are annoying and can cause a lot of issues for plants. Luckily, they are easy to treat with persistence, especially if your plant collection is small. If caught early, they can be treated quickly and easily. Make sure to scout your plants and treat them accordingly!
As always, if you are concerned about your plants in any way, do not be afraid to reach out!
Happy Growing!
<3 Gina
]]>ZZ plants are cherished for their ability to tolerate low light conditions without etiolating (stretching for the light) and for their drought tolerance. Though, low light does not mean no light. If there is little to no natural light in the area you place this there is a possibility for this plant to etiolate, grow slower, and eventually die. No photosynthetic plant can survive without light. The idea light conditions for ZZ plants includes bright, indirect light, just like most houseplants. They do tolerate low light levels, however, the growth will be slowed significantly. As an already slow grower, this may or may not be noticeable. If moving this plant outside during the warmer months, do not place in direct sun for more than a few hours, as that can cause burns to the foliage. Dappled sun or a covered porch would be perfect. Variegated and Raven ZZ plants need brighter light in order to keep their color and thrive.
Due to the conditions they've adapted to in the wild, this plant has adaptations for drier conditions. Beneath the soil are structures that appear to be similar to potatoes called rhizomes. One of the functions of these rhizomes is water storage. Because of this, over watering is a common reason for the death of ZZ plants. Be sure to check the soil before watering. Water when the soil is completely dry, similar to that of cacti and succulents.
When you water your plant, be sure to saturate the soil. Over watering is not the quantity of water, it is the frequency. Giving a small amount of water more frequently will not allow the soil to properly dry between watering and can lead to root rot. No matter if you are watering from the top or the bottom, the soil should be saturated. When watering from the top, continue adding water until excess begins draining through the holes in the bottom of the pot. It may be beneficial to continue adding water, just to ensure the soil is properly saturated, as dry soil takes longer to absorb water. If watering from the bottom, submerge the pot in sufficient water to saturate the soil and leave to soak for as long as it takes to dampen the surface. Depending on the size of the pot, this could take minutes to hours.
ZZ plants need nutrient rich, well draining soil. The Aroid Soil mix available in my shop would be a great choice, as it is a nutrient fortified, fast draining, chunky mix. Other cactus mixes will work well, but may benefit from being amended with additional perlite. Overall, you want to be sure there isn't too high of an organic content that will hold onto the water for too long. That being said, these plants will also thrive in regular cactus mix without amendments, though watering can be a bit of a tougher game. Because these plants like to dry between watering, it may be beneficial to pot them in a terra cotta pot, as the porous clay will allow more air flow and the soil to dry more efficiently.
ZZ plants are a fantastic beginner plant for those difficult areas of the home that aren't quite as hospitable to other plants, but also thrives in areas that other plants would be happy in. They are a unique plant that provides a tropical feel. They fill the niche of snake plants, if they aren't quite your cup of tea.
As always, if you need any help with your plants, please feel free to reach out!
Happy Growing!
<3 Gina
]]>Peperomia is another large genus comprising of over 1,000 species, each with its own unique appearance. The variety of plants within this genus is astounding! These plants are native to tropical and subtropical regions all around the world, though most are concentrated in Central and South America. Peperomia obtusifolia (pictured above), commonly called the baby rubber plant, is native to Florida! This is an easy to care for group of plants that have found their way into many households. Let's get into the care!
Most peperomia are adapted to live in areas below the tree canopy, meaning they are well suited to many areas of the house! They do best in medium to bright, indirect light. Some species will tolerate low light, as well, but if you notice the plant etiolating (stretching towards the light), consider moving the plant to a brighter area or obtaining a grow light. Looking up which species you have will help to determine what light level these plants will need. Any plants that have variegation will need to have more light in order to thrive and keep the variegated ratio high.
Peperomia are often sold in the same section as succulents because of their succulent leaves and ability to tolerate drought, however, many more peperomia species will meet their demise in a succulent arrangement. Plants like the String of Turtles, Peperomia prostrata, is a tropical epiphyte, growing in the rain forests of Brazil. It does best to have its soil consistently moist, rarely allowing the soil to dry, if at all. Many other peperomia will have a signal to their grower that they are ready for more water, if they are forgotten for too long. For those with flat leaves, like the above mentioned Peperomia obtusifolia, the leaves should be stiff. If they become flexible, it is time to water! For plants like Peperomia ferreyrae, Peperomia dolabriformis, Peperomia nivalis, and Peperomia axillaris, that have windows on the topside of their leaves, they will demonstrate the need for water when the windows become thinner. Their leaves will also become a bit more flexible when they need water. For most peperomia, they will benefit from the top inch of soil drying before watering once again.
Remember, to water properly, the soil must be completely saturated. This is true for top and bottom watering. If watering from the top, continue watering until water flows out of the bottom of the pot, then add some more for good measure and allow the excess to drain. If watering from the bottom, allow the pot to soak in enough water until the soil is saturated to the surface. Depending on the size of the pot, this could take minutes or hours. Remember to check the soil before watering to avoid over watering. Over watering is the frequency of water, not the quantity.
Peperomia do best in soil with a high organic content, the "dirt" portion of potting soil. Most regular potting soils straight from the bag are perfect! Amending the soil is not necessary for these plants. Succulent soil can be okay for some species, but they do much better in typical potting soils without a specialty.
All peperomia make fantastic beginner plants, and with the variety they provide, there really is a peperomia for everyone! As always, if you are concerned about your plant, please reach out with any questions you have!
Happy growing!
<3 Gina
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